Simon

My old 95, and my current 95 both have them.

Bad idea. The Calmini arms, though built strong, have some serious bushing issues. The RC bushings seem to last a lot longer, and the arms are just as strong, maybe just not as pretty.

You'll have to call roughcountry directly. The hardbody UCA's are the ones you'll use....they're the same. You just don't need all that leaf spring crap.

Do some searching around. This has been covered MANY times. Jeep Grand Cherokee coils in the rear - 2-3" of lift in the rear Aftermarket UCA's (I'd suggest RoughCountry) and a torsion bar crank = 2-3" lift in the front I'd also suggest you get longer shocks for the rear, as the shocks will limit axle travel in the rear with a lift. The front will be fine with stock length.

Pezzy's R50 was making a racket over bumps for a while, and it turns out her strut mounts and bearings were shot. Also, she's still got a minor clunk, which, I know is the swaybar endlinks. Due to be replaced soon.

What mz said is true, in normal cases, though, not necessary if you're filling through the shifter hole, as you won't need to be able to fill via the fill hole.

Actually, it's less work, as I believe it's the inner joint that comes off the shaft when you take the thing apart. Don't quote me on that, as it's been a while, as I share your train of thought, Pickles....I just replace the shafts now when a boot tears.

I did it a couple of times in my old truck. Wasn't too bad. You want 5.1L of fluid. GL-4 ONLY. Most GL-5 fluids will tear up your transmission, as the additives are corrosive to soft metals, of which, the synchros are made. To fill it, I found it was easiest to simply remove the shifter (take the boots off, and 1 snap ring holds it in) and pour the fluid in directly from the top. On the Synthetic vs Dino argument, the only difference I ever felt was in the first 2-3 shifts on cold mornings, the dino oil was like shifting through mud. Synthetic helped quite a bit in that regard.

Yep. Pezzy's got less clearance than that with her lift, and the 31's she's running. Not a problem at all, as that distance never changes. 1/2" is PLENTY there.

Sounds like the MAF sensor to me. When it's doing it, try to jiggle the MAF connector, and straighten the wiring to it. I'd be very surprised if it doesn't go back to normal. It's very common, as the wiring actually hits the hood when you close it. Some people have even had to re-route the ground wire on theirs.

I dunno....sounds like it doubles to me. I'd be inclined to think the timing belt jumped a tooth, or 3.

I've done it, and never removed the tank. Weld in shorter bursts, especially on the passenger side as the fuel lines run along that rail. Just cover the tank with a welding blanket if you're concerned.

Nope....they physically won't fit in the doors. Look at the shape of your rear doors for the reason why. No problem Derrik....hope it's that simple.

I don't believe so. I think the motors simply cutoff after the "stop" point is reached. Have you by chance installed aftermarket speakers in the front doors? It's possible that they're too deep, and not allowing the window to go past them.

That's what I thought too.

I believe the 90 had a cable driven speedo. That would definitely affect your ODO and trip ODO as well. Sounds to me like something is disconnected. Try in the cluster first, as it's pretty easy to pull out, then go with the other end, which, I believe is on the T-case. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Pull....and hard. I used pliers on them, twisting back and forth as I pulled....they eventually came free.

No worries buddy....it happens to the best of us. And, for the worst of us, that's a daily battle!

Just push in the clip and pull it apart. It'll be snug on there, as there's a rubber washer/o-ring in there to keep it from getting wet.

Passenger side, near the inner fender well, under the hood. There's a bank of 4 electrical plugs there, on a little metal post, of sorts. If you're curious which one exactly, follow the wire from under the truck....it runs down the passenger side of the tranny, then over top, to driver's side, and the sensor itself.

How'd YOU do THAT?!?!?

Yep....bypass the rad anyways...plug the holes for the tranny lines, and run an aftermarket cooler. You can pick one up that's rated for 20,000lbs for well under $100.

Well...is it possible you've got the tensioner on backwards? 11 o'clock, is 180degrees from 5 o'clock, so you could have the tensioner on wrong, but everything else right. I dunno, I'm just guessing...

NOt all WD21's had it. My old one didn't. I think it was more common on the earlier models.

Yours could very well be the connection to the MAF sensor. It's pretty common to be a little flaky on these things.