Simon

Yessir. It drove me nuts too. I cut the bastard out.

Yep....Landshark's got ya. Personally, I cut out the safety hoop. I found that it just flexed too much, and made an irritating popping noise under my seat in turns. Anyone up here that's done a BL on a WD21 has done the same.

Allow me to clarify DEEP snow yes. Hard pack, shallow snow, no. I haven't really found mine great in slush either. However, I hadn't aired them down from my summer pressure when I did try them out, as I was switching tires anyways.

It will run 31's stock. MT's are great, but not if you're going to go wheeling only once or twice a year. A good AT tire will serve you far better if that's the case. That said, just about any aggressive mudder will do well on the trail. Most are sh!t on snow/ice/slush, and barely adequate in the rain. The BFG AT/KO's and the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo's are both excellent tires, quite good off road, and still have good road manners.

NOt off the top of my head, but just have someone start it, while you have both lines in a bucket. see which one fluid comes out of, and shut the truck off immediately. Pretty easy, and that's how I did mine.

Make sure you change your oil a couple of times in a row..... like 100miles max in between changes. And make sure you do one AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Your oil is 99% surely contaminated with water right now.

And it's carrying what? Throw a 33" tire on the back for a week....

Not all of them. It seems the deflectors available here in Canada are different. They're hard plastic, and the brackets mount to the rear hatch sheetmetal.

Here's another theory. A lot of WD22 Xterra guys have realized that the WD21 body lifts fit the Xterra, so rather than pay for the Xterra lift, they go for the one for the Pathy. That said, many Xterra guys will only go with the 2" body lift, as a 3" isn't really worth all the extra work involved. Same size tires fit, yet it takes a lot less work to do the 2" lift.

No worries. It only becomes remedial if it's been asked 46578 times, or if YOU have to ask more than once.

Yep. A double DIN stereo. Same head unit for the XE/SE/LE in 95, but the LE came with the 2nd unit that was a CD player that plugged directly into the stock head unit. I gave mine to SkinnyPedal.

Check that manual again my friend. Rear ABS only on WD21's.

Not necessarily. You can add a plate, have the filter on top of it, and still be able to reach it. Sure, you'll drop oil all over the skidplate, but they typically have holes in them to drain it out anyways. Then give it a wipe, and install the new filter.

Skid plates gentlemen....skid plates!!!!! Then it's a moot point.

Good point on the fluid, Ryan.

Okay......first off.... A WD21 has NO wheel speed sensors. The ABS is rear only. The ABS sensor is on the rear pumpkin. No sensors at the wheels. Secondly, if your brake light is on, and it's NOT because of the e-brake being engaged, you've got a problem. The ABS light simply means that the ABS system is malfunctioning, but regular brakes will work fine, except in the case where you've got an accompanying brake light. You definitely have air in the system, and I've got a suggestion as to where... halfway down the truck, on the passenger side, inner frame rail is the proportioning valve for the braking system. IT needs to be bled when you bleed the system. Start from the rear, bleed the passenger side rear brake, then the drivers side. Then the proportioning valve. Then the front passenger side brake, then the front driver's brake. Always bleed from furthest away from the reservoir, to the closest. By the way, your friend who simply pulled the light, is a moron. Any friend who will tell you to do that on something as important as brakes isn't much of a friend.

That all depends on how you use the truck. If you're wheeling it a lot, in really muddy water, you'll want to change it out more often (for differentials, and t-case). Every couple of years or so. If you're just driving on the street, I'd check the condition of the fluid at that interval, and leave it in as long as 60k. If the fluid isn't getting contaminated, it lasts quite a while. FOr the tranny, 60k is plenty, as long as you're checking it regularily, and making sure it remains nice and pink.

stock length shocks are just fine for the front, even with the lift. You should get longer shocks for the rear, as you'll limit your articulation otherwise when running the JGC coils.

If you're only going to run 31's, why do you need to lift at all? 31's fit any stock WD21 Pathfinder with no issues. Many came from the factory with them.

hmm....not sure how user rebuildable the racks are on R50's. I'd try a GOOD (read: Lucas or similar) PS stop leak.

Where are we looking here? Is that your steering rack?

Wow....that's a weird one man. Hope you get it fixed without too many headaches.

Your brakes will be fine. I don't know why you think your ABS would be "confused". The only way that would happen is if you were running larger tires on one axle, in comparison to the other, or two different sized tires on 1 axle. Either way, with all 4 being larger, your ABS will be fine.

Battery should be at least 650 CCA. Make sure it's a model that fits in the battery spot in the engine bay. Some are too tall. Your parts store should know this. Unless you can clamp the posts, with jumper cables to another battery, then take off the terminals, and reattach them to the new battery, you'll have your truck disconnected. It's no big deal. Reset the clock, and your station presets, and go.