Simon

Sure, there are a bunch, however they're pricey. It's just not worth it. I can still do an oil change on Pezzy's truck in about half an hour, even having to take the front skid off. The point of this thread is simply to state that the commercially available relocation kit that's most likely to fit the R50 Pathfinder with the VG33 motor, does not.

Oh....so close....yet so far........ MY1PATH You're right in your first paragraph, though, LSD or not in the front end, you'll still have the same problem. The 2nd paragraph is wrong. Our t-case splits power 50/50. The only problem with dry roads in 4hi is turning. You can drive for months, straight, in 4hi on dry pavement and never have an issue. One turn, and you start binding the drivetrain up. The reason is this..... As you turn, the outside wheels have to turn far faster than the inside wheels. And the fronts turn at a slightly different speed than the rears, as they're the ones doing the turning. That speed differential between front and back is what causes the driveline to bind up, and potentially cause issues.

Yes, and yes. The fact of the matter is where the gasket (in this case, an o-ring) mates the block, it's slightly larger in diameter than the stock filter. My assumption is, that this works for the Xterra as it's probably a different mount. On the R50 Pathfinder, it seems to mate up to the block, but then leaks like crazy as soon as you start the truck.

Putting it on a switch, regardless of whether or not it's hooked up to a thermostat is a good idea. Shut it off before water crossings That said, mine's not done with a thermostat. The main fan comes on when I start the truck, the secondary comes on when I turn on my AC.

It won't slip right out. Just loosen the bolt on it, to allow the smaller part to slide out of the larger part where it's splined. Watch that it's sliding out properly as you lift. Once the lift is in, tighten up the nut. That's it.

Something about Adam's an idiot? Well, since the truck can't be driven, there's no need to change the belt on it.

And wheeling.

All good information, though a definite X2 on this point. I had to replace that pipe because of that issue exactly.

There's brushes in the motor, very similar to those in an alternator. Yours could be worn out, or just dirty and stuck. Follow GrimGreg's suggestion and clean it out, before you go ahead and replace.

I just slid mine down the inner fender wall, and reattached it. Took me about 10 minutes, and $0.10 worth of self tapping screws.

What's the differences in the transmissions? THey're all RE4R01A are they not? I am not doubting you, just don't quite understand what the differences would be, and if so, why they'd have the same part number.

From what I hear, it's simply a screen. No need to replace it. I believe it's the same transmission from 87-2000 as the part number is the same in both the WD21 and the R50 (till 2000). I'm not sure on the newer VQ equipped Pathfinders though.

I believe it was in 90, with the start of the 4 door, though, I could be wrong on that as well.

I agree with that mostly, though, when doing a timing belt change, you're checking, and/or replacing a lot of parts that wouldn't be changed in a timing chain equipped vehicle. I'm inclined to think that it's a big reason why these motors last so long.

x2 Belt too tight, or, more likely, too loose.

Yes and yes. However, if you wheel it, a cone type filter is not the best choice in really dusty, or very wet conditions.

Yeah, it'll work. You just won't have full flex in the rear end. But they'll work.

His 87 has a 95 motor in it.

Check the battery connections, make sure they're clean and tight. Failing that, try boosting it. Failing that, could be the starter.

Depends on what model you have. They'll work, but you may not have all the flex you could if you got longer ones. Stock part number in the rear are 5116's, You can run 5114, or 5112's in the rear with a lift for more flex. IN the front, it doesn't matter at all. Stock length regardless of lift.

Nope, that tool won't work. Different size. I typically just tighten it back up with screwdriver and a hammer. You can feel when it gets too tight. You should be able to spin the wheel pretty freely, but not have any play in the bearings.

100mm. Same as the hole clearance on the R50. They'll fit. I've used R50 rims on my WD21 and have seen WD21 rims on an X, and X rims on a WD21.

On a 95, you don't plug in. You run the codes from the ecu which is under the passenger seat. Search the forums, as there's instructions on how to run the codes around here somewhere.

I had a pretty hefty RMS leak. I've switched to 10w30, and used Lucas Oil Stabilizer at about 30% dilution (30% Lucas, 70% oil) and it has stopped. Took about 3 oil changes to get it completely.

The locks could be any number of things. A jammed lock, a lock sensing a door partially open, the locks sensing the key in the ignition, or the door lock timer. (you are trying to lock the doors with the key out of the ignition, right?) For #2, it sounds like possibly your synchros, or the gears themselves aren't holding like they used to and have some play. As long as it doesn't pop out on it's own, you should be alright.