Simon

Well, not much, however, if you're going to wheel it, I wouldn't bother. You'll end up turning them into pretzels in no time. Invest in a set of sliders....they can be used as steps, but still hold up the weight of the truck.

LMFAO...I doubt it. Not everything works on mine!

No....he meant he got 44 miles more on a full tank....not MPG.

^^^^ What he said. Taking the tach out of the one that works and putting into the cluster with the bad one should only take you half an hour or so, and that includes removing both clusters. FWIW, I took the tach out of my 95SE manual and put it in my 95LE auto and it works just fine.

You'll be fine. If there wasn't immediate clunking, clatter or any other abnormalities, you have nothing to worry about. That said, change your oil, twice in a row at least.... Change NOW (or ASAP) drive around the block Change it again, put a new filter on for this one. Reason being, if you did take in water, it's now sitting in your oil pan, not mixing well.

I carry a winch, and 2 30,000lb recovery straps. When using the winch, I clear all bystanders away from anywhere near where I'm working, and I also sit in my truck, with the hood up. That said, we've been lax in the past with clearing people as far when synthetic line is in use, as it doesn't snap like steel. We hadn't taken into consideration that the recovery point on the truck could have come loose. We were lucky.

In comparing to North American models, I'd say it's a 96-99 model R50. THat's the years we had that body style here.

A guy at work with a Hyundai Sonata had some issues with his transmission, long shifts, and it seemed as if the torque converter was remaining locked up, which didn't really allow the car to accelerate very well. He used a container of Lucas Transmission fix, and it has actually improved quite a bit. He had even had the fluid replaced in the tranny recently which didn't help, but the Lucas stuff did. Long term, I couldn't tell you....but I've never ever heard of it causing issues, and only ever heard positive accounts using Lucas products.

Right, and as it does that, it also keeps the ball joint at an angle much closer to stock.

I use Lucas, and have had excellent results. No lifter tap at startup when I use it, and I do get some without. Also, it's helped slow my RMS leak. Great stuff. My dad also uses it every 2nd oil change or so in his 95 Explorer with the 4.0L engine, and has never had a motor issue. He's got 250,000kms on it, and it still runs great.

First of all....they are NOT polyurethane. Typically they're aluminum. Secondly, there have been a few folks that have used them, some with success, others, with destroyed UCA's from the spacers. I would steer clear of them, and spend the extra money on a decent set of aftermarket upper control arms. You'll be much happier in the end. You will still have to crank the torsion bars to achieve lift. These simply allow for correct ball joint angle once the torsion bars are cranked to desired height.

Gear ratio is PROBABLY 4.625 Check the plate on the inner passenger side fender HG46= 4.6 gears HG43= 4.3 gears LSD is possible, though, no real way to know for sure without checking for the sticker on the pumpkin, orange in colour, stating LSD oil only, or by jacking up the rear to see if both wheels turn the same way. Check the frame, and the floorboards, specifically the rear of the frame, and the floor under the driver's right foot, and under the rear seats. Also check for RMS leak, which isn't really a deal killer, but something to haggle on. It's a 9 hour repair, at shop labour prices. Other than that, check the tranny fluid to ensure it's nice an pink. If not, walk away. You don't want an expensive rebuild any time soon. If it's nice and pink, and you buy it, put an external cooler on it ASAP, and bypass the stock cooler.

some Cali emissions models had a pre-cat as well. Totally useless, and unnecessary. I had mine removed when my exhaust was done, and my truck passed emissions without issue.

I know Morpheus personally, and he deals with our local club quite a bit, and is always a fair guy. I think it's all in how you approach the problem..... If you go in kicking and screaming and making a fuss, they're going to deny you any assistance. Not that a person in Mike's position can overturn Nissan's decision, however, with him pulling for you, it's possible that it'd make a difference. If you go in with the attitude that the service manager is your friend, and is there to help, I'm sure you'll have a lot better response to your problem. That said, there's good and bad in every field. A$$holes get jobs all the time. Maybe your service manager is a d!ck. At that point, I'd look for another dealership, but not before taking a step back and asking myself if something I did caused him to act that way.

9 times out of 10, it's the wiring on the sending unit causing the issue. I've had to replace/repair wiring 3 times on mine. The design is horrible, and lets the wires corrode in the little cap on the sending unit.

I've made the mistake once, and had a friend do the same recently. I won't ever do it again, other than maybe a 2 turn adjustment. Other than that, the weight comes off the front end. But you guys do what you want with your own truck. I'm not saying it will happen every time, but the fact that it CAN happen is enough reason to take precautions.

Don't worry about it. Keep in mind, that this forum, in this incarnation has been around for 5 years or so, with thousands of posts made. Chances are the question has been asked. Search first, ask questions later.

No worries man. If you haven't done it before, it really is simple. You'll see which way you have to drop them when you get under there. The lower they come out of the crossmember, the higher you'll lift. But be careful, as you'll have to be able to crank the t-bars enough to get the adjusters back into the crossmember.

Sorry....just re-re-read. Clockwise on the driver's side (to drop the anchor a spline or two) and counter clockwise on the passenger side while looking towards the front of the vehicle, from behind the adjusters.

What exactly are you asking? I just re-read the whole thread, and unless I missed it, I can't see any reference to that.

They were posted here. I had them somewhere as well.

Right....then you score the hell out of the bolt as it digs into the t-bar anchor. Just jack up the front end, and crank them. It doesn't take that long.

a 19mm wrench will allow you to back off the jam nut, and hold the other nut while you use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar, or big ratchet to tighten the bolt at the bottom. Do this with the weight off the front end, as it's a lot easier. Crank the same amount of turns on both sides.

No no no....not guage related. I actually had the main power wire to the fuel pump corrode and break off. Drilled a hole, spliced the wire to the pump itself, then moved the ground. I sealed the hole with high temp, gas resistant sealant. I'd pull the sender and check the float for fuel inside it. If not, just give it a little bend toward the bottom of the tank. Then it should come up to full when your tank is full.