Simon

The 94-95 are prone to the tach giving up. Mine would jump around all the time when I got it. I just replaced it with one out of my old truck. I couldn't tell you why it works in 4wd.

We can get them here in Canada for ~$20 a pair. So $7 and change US sounds about right.

Some people don't learn.

31's fit all WD21 Pathfinders Stock. XE LE SE it doesn't matter. You WON'T fit those tires with just a 3" body lift. You WILL rub HARD on your fenders and rear quarters any time you turn the wheel, or flex the suspension. You need some suspension lift to fit them, in addition to the body lift. I run approx 2.5" suspension lift, and a 3" body lift, with aftermarket rims and 385/75R16 tires (measured out to about 33.5" tall) and I still rub off road (my rear quarters are a mess) and in the front on the fenders when I turn and hit a bump.

Nope....all those are driven by the harmonic balancer. You need to pull off the distributor cap to check to see if the rotor is moving. If not the belt stripped or snapped. Either way, that's not good.

To buy new parts, plus your time, far more than $250 for the motor, and swapping it out. If it's a known good motor, recondition it on a stand and then dump it in. Do headers, timing belt et all, and anything else that's tough to do with the motor in the truck.

Could be the dimmer is shot. But I'd think you'd blow a fuse in that case.

*snort*

You should see them move as you move the switch. With the switch in the on position, 2 should be touching. With the highbeam switch on, they all should be touching.

FSM= Factory Service Manual. Search around for the link to the download.

Fix the manifold leak. That should help with power, at least in the low end. Other than that, there are some high flow catalytic converters and mufflers that don't add much to the sound. They remain close to stock in terms of noise, especially when used with stock sized pipes. A good exhaust shop should be able to help out with what you're looking for. Other than that, a cold air intake (if you don't wheel it) or a K&N drop in panel filter will help also.

I've seen that leak before. A friend's Xterra had the same issue. You should be able to get the part separate from the throttle body. It's the Thermal element. Part code 16391U. Double check that with your Nissan Dealer.

Each crossmember has holes. The middle one for the rear of the 2nd plate, and front of the 3rd is a bolt-through spot. The rest are all pretapped holes that you simply bolt into.

ATF is thinner than 10w30, and might even be thinner than 5w. It's also got a lot of detergents in it that can help break up those deposits.

Basically, 3 pieces for a WD21. Front skid, Engine/tranny skid, T-case skid. They should run from crossmember to crossmember and meet there (overlap) If I was to change my BlackPanther skids, I would only change the center one, and have it extend all the way to the frame rails widthwise. That would protect my t-bars from rocks on the trail.

Seafoam. Try that in the oil. I'll also +1 the idea of ATF. Done it before, and had chunks of crap come out of the oil (my old car).

1/8" won't hold up to much. Most skidplates are 3/16" thick, and even those get warped like hell after a few good trips. You have to take into consideration the bends which add strength.

Actually Ramon, Miles are longer than kilometers, and thus, will be represented by a smaller number. For instance, 100,000 miles = 160,000kms

You may get some rub at full lock on the frame. On the body, they may rub a bit when flexed out off road.

You don't have any issues. There's a couple guys running 33x12.5" tires on Legos with the same lifts you have with no problems.

They're half inch, square. As in, a half in ratchet fits perfectly.

No need for a pitman arm brace. Do NOT get the gussets on the arms....Hoohaa doesn't recommend this, and the only L&P, or hoohaa CL's I've ever seen fail are the ones that were paired with the gussets on the idler and pitman arms.

Sounds like the driveshaft, or rear diff has some play. Try moving the driveshaft while all 4 wheels are on the ground. Look for play at the U-joints. If not that, try jacking up 1 rear wheel, and try to spin it. You shouldn't be able to move it (at least not much) with the other wheel on the ground, as you have the LSD rear. Another thing to check would be the rear control arm bushings.

You need post cat, left and right O2 sensors. If they're really bad, they could cause driveability issues.