Simon

I agree with Trailchaser. If it were my wheeling group, I'm quite sure they'd offer to help with the repairs, and/or cover them completely. I would not, however, EXPECT that of them.

Then at least the ID will be good. Wheel, I agree with Casey....you're the test subject! That'd solve a lot of problems for a lot of Calmini owners.

Not a clue. I don't know if Calmini retained stock bushing sizing on their UCA's. Worth a shot, but I wouldn't bank on it. Do the Calmini arms use the stock spindles to mount to the frame?

I'm not sure, but I believe those are supposed to be installed on the part with the pigtail. Therefore, they may be the wrong outer diameter to fit correctly as we use the coils on our trucks.

Sorry man, but your issues with the bushings are NOT due to improper installation. That's Calmini. Their bushings are SH!T.

Yeah....I see cars around here driving around with bumper stickers stating... "Out of a job yet?!?!? Keep buying foreign!" Funny thing is, it's always on Ford or Chrysler vehicles NOT built in Canada. The oldschool "domestic" lovers don't know their heads from their asses in that sense, and don't realize that, as TC said, more Toyota's and, following closely behind, Honda's are built in North America than their "domestic" counterparts.

Wow....that's absolutely retarded. Ford - Where pissing you off is job 1

On the "double sheer" point, here's what I've found..... Many people I wheel with, mainly with Xterra's with the L&P steering system, have had VERY bad luck when using the double sheer idler and pitman arms. They've actually CAUSED the failure of the centerlinks. Reason being, the tolerances between the bracing and the arm itself isn't EXACTLY right, thus, no "sandwich" is achieved when bolting the CL to the idler and/or pitman arm. This allows for some movement in terms of the centerlink sliding along the bolt. I've seen 3 cases where the bearings in the centerlink have actually worn the outer sleeve enough to allow the bearing to fall out when the CL is unbolted. Mine, without the double sheer idler/pitman arms, shows no such signs of failure.

ON road only, there isn't too much point, especially if you're sticking to stock height, and stock sized tires. A stock CL will last you many years with that configuration. If you intend on putting a lift on, or doing any offroading, you need this upgrade.

Yeah, you don't want to do that. That's a quick way to test the 4wd system, but used like that for any length of time, you'll break something. What you were feeling was the tcase binding up on itself, as the front and rear wheels spun at different speeds.

See? I said it wasn't impossible! Good info man!

Incorrect sir! If his profile is correct, he's driving an 01. The VQ35 has a timing chain, rather than a belt as found in our VG series engines. To answer the original question, yes, it's possible to wear, though quite uncommon. Not only that, I don't think I've ever heard of one "stretching", though, that doesn't mean it isn't possible. If you're sure it's coming from the chain, I'd be more inclined to think that maybe a tooth has broken/worn on one of the sprockets.

Yeah.....they're similar all the way up from at least 90. could be simply the wiring on the sending unit, however. That's more common to be the culprit than the pump itself.

That's why you tack a piece of steel onto the main pieces to use as a spot to clamp the ground. I did that when I started with that bumpstop section.

Alright here's a few.... What I started with. One hole....the rest wasn't bad. A little soft, and it had been flaking a bit. The other side was similar. Here's a shot after tacking some steel on....pre drilled. I ended up chasing out the holes in the existing frame steel after welding. Here's the ALMOST finished product. I ended up adding a piece of steel welded all the way around, to join my main piece with the bumpstop part that hangs lower. That should help reinforce things nicely. I don't have pics of it, unfortunately. I also coated everything with paint (just tremclad) then went directly down to my friend's shop for undercoating.

Let me see what I can dig up.....

A little. Bottom, top and inside are good. The outside was a little soft in spots. It's all been reinforced already, and I'll be getting it undercoated yearly at a friend's shop.

I would never have done that on my old one, as the truck was in pretty rough shape otherwise, when the spring perch broke off the frame. On my "new" one....I just might if I run into frame trouble again.

Probably not LSD....that's most likely why. Go easier on the throttle.

Does your new one have limited slip?

On the R51. SkinnyPedal owns one, in addition to his WD21. He's had it off road a couple of times, and he said the same thing, that the VDC is a real pain in the ass. He hates the thing off road. If there was a way to completely disable it, there may be some hope for the R51.

LOL I'll have to use that one. I like to joke with them that I drive a 1st generation Xterra!

Yes....flames. Fire. The standard type of fire. It's not that uncommon, and it's definitely worth the 20 minutes or so it takes to clean it out.

Yeah....I agree with V6. The front end of the WD21 is not so good. I hated my "new" one when I got it...as it had no brushguard, and I hadn't mounted my ARB.

Same setup as mine. You'll get quite a bit of flex out of the rear end. Personally, having had my front swaybar off on my old truck, but on this truck, I can say with a fair amount of confidence that it makes no difference in flex.