Simon

Oh.....sorry about your luck....trying to show that you know something, you've failed again! The hill has nothing to do with it. Mash the pedal, and the power light will illuminate.

Actually Ryan, he's right. If you mash the pedal, regardless of double pumping, it'll go into power mode automatically. Don't worry though, leave the there.....he'll deserve it, most likely, on his next post.

The issue with the settings off, and 4 working is the blower motor resister. It's behind the glove box. It's a $30 part brand new. You can swap that out in a matter of half an hour. The switch directing the air flow could be a bigger project. It's all cable driven. If you're lucky, it's simply disconnected at the switch, which would mean you simply have to reconnect the cable, and be good to go.

LOL....good point cyclops!

What trail tools do you have? Shovel? You'll need at least 300 rig strength, and rig ability, and a hi-lift to get through that. I'm up to, but can't pass the bloody powerline....yet.

Nothing to worry about. If they're working, they're working. I had 310,000kms on my truck when my autos finally gave up on me. There are no stronger automatic hubs out there for our application. If you want to go back to auto, do so. Personally, I like knowing, for certain that my hubs are locked, or unlocked when I want them to be. That's why I went with Warns.

Good job man...

They're not bad anymore. I know of a few people driving them, with no issues.

Yeah...build your rig....tires, armour, tcase, engine, and trail tools. I'm now up to, but not completed, the Powerline...I ALMOST got through that one, but then died.....time for another upgrade.

Yep...I typically send a few bucks to whomever busts me out.

I'm like that at times too....but you have to keep an open mind....things, and companies change. For instance, look at Hyundai. They couldn't keep a car on the road for 100,000kms when they started (nevermind miles!) and now they make a fairly decent little car, for not a whole bunch of money.

I hear what you're saying, Ryan, but it's tough to discount and entire brand, just because of a particular type, or model of tire. For instance.... BFGoodrich makes the AT/KO, which is a favorite among many people looking for an aggressive AT tire. They are probably the 1-2 for the best AT around. However, many of their lower end passenger car tires are garbage. Goodyear is the same way.... The only company, that I've seen, that has excellent reviews for ALL their tires is Michelin....but when have you ever heard of an aggressive AT, or MT model from them? They do what they do well, but they don't do it all.

Yep....the 97's were good ones. That model (R50 design) started in 96. Check to see if the timing belt has been changed on it, if not, try to get it knocked off the price. It's a fairly expensive repair, if you don't do it yourself. ($700-$1000). Other than that, try to take it out on the highway, and feel if the rear end is tight. The R50's are known for bad rear control arm bushings that make the truck feel really loose in the back end. Other than that, they're a pretty reliable vehicle. Good luck.

Make sure she fills with Halogen fluid ONLY!!! If not, they won't work worth a damn!

You'll get the hang of it eventually. As long as when you get the information, it STAYS with you. We have no problem helping folks out. It's when people have to be told the same damn things over and over that it becomes very tiring.

Oh boy. Um...no such thing as a starter belt. Accessory belts are easy to change. There are 3. 1 for Power steering, 1 for AC, and the other for Alternator/water pump. Alternator belt - The alternator is the tensioner. Loosen the top and bottom bolts, then loosen the tensioner bolt until you can get the belt off. Installation is reverse of removal. PS belt - The power steering pump is the tensioner on this one. Same procedure as the alternator. AC belt - The tensioner is right up top. Easy to loosen off. Installation is reverse of removal. Change all 3 at the same time....it only makes sense, as you may have to remove 1 to get to the other, and they're relatively cheap.

KINDA?!?!? I'm convinced that's your favorite thing about wheeling. Add in the fact that you're a girl, and driving a unibody and it completes the trifecta!

Don't bother with 15x10. There's no need. Stick with 15x8. You can go up to 33x12.5 on a 15x8 rim, and you can't fit any bigger than that on these trucks without a SAS.

Turn the key to the on position, but don't crank it. You should hear the fuel pump run from the back of the truck. If not, good chance it's the sending unit on top of the tank. The fuel pumps don't go that often on these things, but the sending unit's are very common to go, especially in climates where salt is used on the roads. Failing that, check the fuel pump fuse, and/or the fuel pump relay.

Bought truck upgrades (Tires/t-case/shovel) and ran trails. I've done every trail up to the Salamander.

You need to join the gang, then one of the admins of the gang will allow you to join. The gang is called NPORA.

Um...why? Loosen the 13mm bolt holding down the distributor, and then turn it a bit with a timing light to retard the timing. It'll take you 5 minutes.

BLAST! I was wondering why I wasn't in a gang this morning! Re-applied!

Yeah man...thanks for the goods. Got through the first trail as well.

I don't know who this simnon guy is, but he must have quite a bad attitude if you're dropping the hammer on him like that!