Simon

Jeez man.....jack up each corner of the truck separately, and get that wheel to hang down as far as possible. Then you should be able to get those stupid things out.

LOL...someone used some REALLY crappy spring spacers to give it a bit of lift. I'd pull them out. If you want a lift, look at 4x4parts.com. There's a few options there. But I'd get those out for sure....they're not even secured. If they fly out, it could be real ugly.

No worries. We've had a few members such as yourself join, and they've gone on to tackle some pretty hefty repairs/mods. Read the books, try to find a FSM, and when you have questions, feel free to ask. As long as you have the ability to learn (this is not as common as you might think) we have no problem in helping.

Download the Factory Service manual AND get a Haynes/Chiltons manual for your model. Sometimes the Haynes/Chiltons is enough to get you by...and is easier to read, when things get more complex, or the other manual is lacking in description, use the Factory service manual to be sure.

I can now too.

No...she was referring to HitTheTrails' avatar. Though, there is something seriously wrong with Daftpup's as well.

The hatch will open, but the glass won't.

Weird....she was seeing it, then I logged on, read this thread, and I couldn't see it. Maybe something was in her cache? I saw it on her screen as well, so we can rule out drunkeness!!

Harvey, While your logic is sound, the other thing to consider is that our trucks have proportioning valves to "level out" the braking forces applied to front and rear tires. Believe me, a stuck caliper or leaky wheel cylinder can really affect your braking no matter which wheel it's located at. The only way to get things fixed is to inspect all the brakes at each wheel, bleed the entire system, (back to front) and ensure all moving parts in the braking system are properly lubricated and sliding/moving freely.

575 CCA is a little low if you see colder climates. Typically, most people run 650+ Mine is 700. I'll be going to a Yellow top soon though, as I need the reserve capacity of a deep cycle to run my inverter, and in the (hopefully) near future, a winch.

Never heard of that. And I just had mine done with Dexron III. Shifting fine.

Yep...as GG said. Now, if you DON'T want to go past 1-2" of lift in the front end, you should not get new UCA's. You'll never get it aligned with the front end sitting so low. They're designed to give you a 2.5-3" lift. There is a member here who bought aftermarket UCA's, and modified them to work with less lift, but he's an engineer, and has access to lots of tools, and lots of knowledge to make those mods. Anyways, it's just something to consider.

Looks like, based upon his profile, it's a 1990 SE. If so, then 88's posts regarding WD21's fit your truck. Torsion bar crank, UCA's, Rear coils = 3" suspension lift Body Lift = 3" more lift on the body. If you combine both lifts, you can fit 33" tires on your truck as a few of us have done.

Cut them down? Why? I had a CL from a small taper truck installed on my last 95, which had regular, large taper stuff on the outer ends, and everything was fine. No cutting of anything.

Dexron III is fine.

Dexron III is fine in the AT.

OOOOO....don't forget to replace your muffler bearings = +10 HP!

Wow...lots to read... okay.. Rim size means nothing. If you find rims with the correct backspacing, you can run 31's on 16" rims no problem. 33's will require a 3" body lift, and 3" suspension lift. You'll never fit them on a stock height rig. Transmission : Install an aftermarket cooler AT LEAST....and bypass the stock one (in the rad) It's the cause of most of the tranny issues the WD21's suffer. On the fluid...it's your call. But lets be honest, even if you have to put a tranny into it (used, they can be found fairly cheap) you'll still have cheap transportation. Kenwood deck. You have the 12v constant, and 12v switched wires backwards. Switch them around and you'll be good to go. If you can't find the 12v constant wire, run it straight from the battery with an inline fuse. Good luck with it, and welcome!

How far are you towing? If it's a fair distance, I'd say do some research on the weight of the car, and trailer. Max towing capacity is 5000lbs, with proper hitch. OD OFF!!!! That said, I wouldn't tow 5000lbs with a 3.3L engine for any length of time. For longer distances...3500lbs would be the max I'd go.

I run IPF's with 100w bulbs. They're bright as hell.

nope. Just PM him. his board name here is hoohaa. Good guy to deal with, and honest.

The other thing is that if someone had the center bezel off to replace a stereo or something like that, they may have disconnected the harness to the lighter. It's easy enough to take off and have a peak, before tracing wires.

Typically it's a trim package thing. SE's almost ALL had them. Some XE's (depending on chosen options/packages) had them. LE's typically did not have them.

Nope...that's about it for our steering upgrades. hoohaa's is exactly like L&P in terms of design. Though, he only does the CL. No gussetted pitman or idler arms. Though, I have since seen a couple of instances where the gussetting on those arms caused CL failure. But that's a long story..... I'm running hoohaa's centerlink, with stock Idler and pitman arms, and a simple idler arm brace. I've had no issues with it, and have done quite a bit of wheeling. Calmini's kit is a nice one....totally different design....and fully rebuildable. Though, the issue is, from what I've seen on Xterra's, at least, it needs rebuilding quite often.

A little play in the steering box is normal. I'm with jj on this one. Your CL is probably shot.