Simon

Not a whole bunch, no. But I don't use the back window that much for vision, I typically use my side mirrors.

It's heavy. Like, the stock bumper might weigh 20lbs if that, and this thing is 80lbs or so, without the tire carrier. I figure the carrier is about equal with a stock one.

SOHC = Single Over Head Cam MPFI = Multi-Port Fuel Injection.

Actually, it's a lacquer paint as the top coat. The epoxy enamel Pezzy mentioned is something we spoke about while building the bumper as a possible long term solution. Unfortunately, there just wasn't time, nor the facilities in place for that type of coating. The lacquer should hold up well with the self etching primer.

Thanks guys. Here's a few more of the finished product.

It was a long day. No...sorry....let me rephrase. It was a LONG, LONG, LONG day. 17.5 hours spent at the master's shop. Research, design, fabrication and implementation. Started with this: And this: and turned them into this: this: and finally....the finished product. HUGE thanks go out to Bender for his time, expertise and patience. It's amazing what we accomplished in one day. There will be more pics to follow, as we sort through the 340+ shots of the process, and get them uploaded to our site. I'll also be getting a few more closeup shots of the finished product.

Here's the thing. AC's UCA's, though sturdy, aren't any longer, or any different design than stock. So when you crank the torsion bars to gain the lift, you'll have the same alignability issues that you would with stock UCA's. RoughCountry arms (rebranded superlift) are excellent. They're longer than stock, and also bend near the ball joint mount to allow for proper ball joint angle after lifting. Calmini, while more costly, are NOT better. They're prone to premature bushing failure, and even when the bushings are okay, they squeak like hell. I'd shy away from them, especially considering they cost far more than the RoughCountry arms.

There are two bolts on the top of the alternator...front and back that you have to loosen off, then the lower one. At that point, you can tighten the bolt on the adjuster to pull the alternator closer to the driver's side wheel, thus, tightening the belt. Even if the adjuster snaps, it's not the end of the world....stick a pry bar in there to tension the alternator up, then tighten the bolts back up....it'll hold....that's how I had to do it in my old Pathy.

A "harmonic balancer puller" is almost EXACTLY like a steering wheel puller, only beefier. I've found, however, that if it's pulling straight (as the puller is designed to do) you need very little force to get the HB off.

Not sure on the basket.... The tire carrier, best of luck. They were fairly rare on the R50's. Either fab one up with a rear bumper, or hit the scrap yard, or dealer. I don't believe anyone here has retrofitted a carrier to a previously non-carrier equipped model, so I'm not sure if there's any braces in the rear pillar that you'll need.

Mine did that when my O2 sensor was bad......though, my CEL stayed on constantly.

There should be a sticker in the door jamb, or glove box that tells you the optimal pressure to run in your tires. Personally, I believe it's a little low, and geared towards comfort. 30psi is usually a decent baseline to start with. You can do the chalk test to see if your pressure is good. Draw a line across each tire, and drive around a little bit. If the center wears out, but the outside doesn't, your pressure is too high. If the outsides wear out, but the center doesn't, your pressure is too low.

10-4. If you have that option, I'd say you'd be fine with a KMA bumper.

I've seen no issue. I've done some hard pulling with mine, which, by the way, is modified for the 3" body lift, and was towed quite a ways off a trail when my old truck died, with no power, and have had no issues with it's strength. I'll be installing a winch in it, hopefully before next wheeling season, and will give it a full test then, but I suspect there'll be no issues. There are quite a few folks in my local club running them on Xterra's that have done heavy winching and theirs are holding up fine.

THey are somehow tied in though, V6. I was cleaning out my truck, and didn't notice a piece of paper towel jammed the hazard switch partially depressed. When I started driving around, no signals. Then I hit the hazards, they worked. Turned them off....no signals again, until I noticed that the paper towel was not allowing the hazard button to pop out fully.

Short of an impact gun, here's what you do. Get a breaker bar and put the correct socket on it, and lean it against the frame rail. (Passenger side, I believe, whichever way will stop with engine rotation, can't remember off the top of my head, and I just woke up ) Make sure your coil wire is off the distributor. Bump the starter, this will loosen the bolt.

Why would you do that? The KMA bumpers have had fitment issues in the past, not to mention, they're shoddy customer service. What downfall do you see with the ARB?

Tap around a bit....if the metal feels solid, just paint them with tremclad.

I'd previously thought that too, but I've been in situations where on the trail where, from outside the vehicle, it looked quite precarious, then the driver checked their clinometer, and had the confidence to drive out of the situation. I've seen it work the reverse way as well.

A WD21 has a 31 spline.

That all depends on where the puddle was. Do you have rear disc, or drum brakes? If the puddle was near one of the rear wheels, it's quite possible a wheel cylinder is leaking. If not, could be a line. I'd hope for one of the rubber ones, and the steel lines that run along the frame, especially to the back of the truck, could be a real pain to replace.

I just had a similar issue on my 95. I ended up getting a brand new exhaust, manifolds back (not including the manifolds) in 2.25" pipe, stainless steel, mandrel bent. They installed a high-flow cat and muffler, both stainless steel, and it cost me a little over 1K CDN. All in all, as much as it hurt to spend that kind of money shortly after buying the truck, I'm very happy with the sound, and performance of the upgraded exhaust. A little raspy at higher RPMs, but a nice low rumble at lower RPMS. And my "butt dyno" says there's a fairly significant power upgrade.

Not sure exactly what you mean by "safari look" but I can't really think of a much better built R50 than Pezzy's. Very similar to Vengeful's, only, a little newer (updated fascia), lacking snorkel, but has a sweet, custom rear bumper/tire carrier.

The rims look like Cragar soft 8....not a bad rim. The tires will rub.....that's for sure, on a stock height pathy.

I don't know if he has...but DO NOT do that. The old acid flushes are a thing of the past. Today's Tranny fluids have so much detergent in them, it's not necessary, nor recommended to flush your transmission with anything else. All that will happen is that it'll eat through the seals on the thing. Simply have a shop do a flush/fill on it using 12-14L of Dexron III.