Simon

Do the 99.5+ not have longer shocks? It seems the mounts are further apart on those later R50 models.

Raybestos is usually pretty good. I'd used them quite often on my old truck, before Monroe released their ceramic pads in Canada.

Mine's done the exact same way, only, I have the grey interior, and my cupholder is black.

Law69. Here's a link to the snorkel for the WD21 Pathfinders... Snorkel Link

Yes, it'll work on your 91 pathfinder.

OOOOOOOH. Well....that changes things. First of all, either buy a code reader, or go to an Autozone and get the code read to find out why your Service Engine light is on. For the 4wd light, I'd assume a sensor, or short somewhere. Sorry I don't have more information, as I drive an old one, with less of the electronic toys.

Bring it back. On an 06, there's no reason for you to have to troubleshoot anything yourself. Take it back, make them fix it.

On dry roads, not far. The 4wd system will bind up on itself on dry pavement. You need some slip to allow the system to run freely.

Nope...but are you getting spark from the coil? Check that first. If the coil isn't firing, you won't get spark to/from the distributor. There's a little grey box behind the ignition coil that I believe is the coil "amplifier" Make sure the connections to it are snug/clean as well.

Well done Scott (Redpath88). It's unfortunate that it seems he has to be FORCED to do the right thing, but hopefully, as Scott (K9sar) said, he's trying to sell the parts to refund the folks he's screwed over.

Yes...you should. That's how the automatic hubs unlock.

WOW! Progress! Hopefully he's going to come through for the rest of the folks here.

1) That's the correct way to check the fluid 2) Too much fluid shouldn't hurt it, however, what condition was the fluid in? Nice and red? Or brown-ish and burnt smelling? It could be that your stock cooler is clogging, thus, creating more pressure in the tranny. You should install a BIG aftermarket tranny cooler, and bypass the stock one which is located inside the rad. They're known to clog, causing premature tranny failures in WD21 Pathfinders. There is no real need to go to Nissan to have the tranny fluid flushed and filled. Any shop can do that for you. Make sure they run 12-14L through the tranny while doing it to ensure they get all the old fluid out. I just had mine done at a Mr. Lube that my friend manages, and it's shifting very nicely now. Oh, and when you switched back to 2WD, did you reverse after shifting the transfer case to unlock the hubs? If not, your indicator light staying on for 10 minutes is not uncommon.

Yes, removing the rear swaybar increases articulation by A LOT. Here's a couple pictures to show you the difference. This is the same spot, on the same trail about 3 weeks apart. The only difference on my truck is the removal of the rear swaybar. Before, with swaybar attached After, no rear swaybar. Look how much closer the wheel is to the ground in that 2nd pic. The front swaybar, in my opinion, is the only one that matters on the road, and it's removal does nothing for you offroad. I've left mine on.

Just take it out. It's really simple. Either mark, or take a picture of the rotor position on the old one BEFORE you take it out, but after you have the cap off. Also make note of the distributor's rotational position near the adjustment screw. It's on the right side of the distributor, looking at it from the front of the truck, and is also the screw that holds the whole thing in. Once you've got the old one out, swap the rotor to the new distributor, and install so that the rotor points to the same place it did when the old distributor was in there. Then line up the distributor with the block and tighten down the adjustment screw. For this part, if you have a timing light, you can leave the adjustment screw a little loose, and use the light to set the timing while turning the distributor. When you've got that set, tighten down the screw.

It WILL get that hot if the stock cooler (inside the rad) is clogged. That is a very common happening with WD21 Pathfinders, and the #1 killer of the autos. That's a tell-tale sign that your tranny is overheating. Get that stock cooler bypassed, and put in an aftermarket cooler. That alone may be enough to give you some more life out of it, and help your shifting issue.

Take your old battery. Chances are...you're not going to wheel it a whole bunch. They don't necessarily last longer in an on road, typically used vehicle. What kills a standard battery in our trucks is the vibration from wheeling, and the huge draw used by certain electrical accessories/equipment.

You don't need a yellow top to run a 175w inverter. Any standard battery is fine. I have a 1200w inverter, running an air compressor, thus, I need a yellow top. Not to mention the power draw of a winch.

Wait until you lift it, and throw bigger tires on it. Then you'll see the allure. I've been contemplating a stabilizer for a while now.....just want to find the most cost effective way of doing it.

Moog are a good choice for ball joints. You shouldn't need much else for that job, except maybe sway bar end links if yours are bad. Be sure to install zerks on the UCA's before putting them on the truck, as Calmini has a horrible tendency to squeak.

Yeah, that's what threw me off as well. I guess the switch works on the negative side.

I'll have to go through some of our videos and try to piece something together. *gets out editting software*

As 88 said...not a good idea without some supports. I have a stock rack, with longitudinal supports along the roof, and with my tire on top, evenly balanced, sandwiched between the crossbars, my roof is bowing a little from the weight. Granted, it's a heavy 33" tire, but it's a lot let stress on the roof sitting flat, than if you were to mount it to the bracket, then bolt that down. Plus, the supports on the roof that come with the stock roof rack do add a good amount of capacity.

The alternator is the tensioner for that belt. Look underneath, and you should see the adjuster.

Could be the headlight switch causing issues. Could also be the ground wire. Are you located in Canada and have the daytime running lights? If so, it's probably the ground from that light, to the DRL. Splice the ground to a generic spot on the body, and it should be fine.