Simon

I got mine from North Shore offroad. I was recently quoted $211 shipped with all taxes in from them for a replacement set for Pezzy's truck (same part number). www.NSOR.com

REALLY? The R50 must have quite a bit more travel in it than the WD21 in terms of the front end. See.....don't let a WD21 guy talk about R50 specific stuff....apparently I don't know sh!t!

I have no idea about doing that on an R50, as I don't drive one, however, on my WD21, I found that it was a little sloppy on road, and didn't give me any benefit off road with the front one removed. The rear, however....big difference off road, and almost no difference on it.

For the front? There really is no point. The front suspension articulates so little, that a sway bar or lack thereof makes no difference. In the rear, absolutely, but in the front, you'd be wasting your money.

Harmonic balancer is the pulley attached to the crankshaft. You don't need a chain wrench. You'll need a Harmonic balancer puller, once you get the bolt loose. How I've removed the bolt in the past: 1) Remove coil wire from Distributor ***VERY IMPORTANT*** 2) Put socket with breaker bar on the bolt. Lean it up against the frame. 3) Bump the starter. That'll crack the bolt loose to allow you to use the puller to remove the harmonic balancer. It works great. *** You don't want the truck to start during this....just a quick bump should be enough to break that bolt loose. Then remove it manually. If you leave that coil wire on, it could be disastrous. ***

My DRL module in my old truck went out on me. No DRL's at all. Then I was doing as LD50 said, banging on the pass side fender to get my lights to work. I found out that the headlight ground on one side (can't remember which) actually runs to the DRL module. That was causing my issue. I spliced it out, and ran a separate ground to the body, and had no issues after that. If it happens to my current truck, I'll do the exact same thing.

Good stuff. Glad it was simple. Probably just need a brake job, hence the low fluid. Keep an eye on it though. Oh, and you have ABS. It's rear only. There was no 4 wheel ABS on WD21's. I've never felt mine kick in either.

Could also be a tie rod end with some play in it. Jack up the front end, and grab the tire. If it moves up and down, then it's either ball joint, or wheel bearing, if it moves side to side, it's most likely a Tierod end issue. Do that for both front tires.

Brake fluid level? I had both on when I had air in the system. Try bleeding everything. Work from the back, to the front, including the proportioning valve in the middle.

xplorx4 has new control arms, as he damaged his, and a few members have subframe drop lifts. Depending on how that's engineered, it could lessen the angle the arms are at.

On the R50, the IFS is actually pretty strong. As it stands, there isn't a whole bunch you can do. Just make sure you get some skids on there to protect everything, mostly the rack. Pezzy, for instance, has wheeled her R50 pretty hard for a few years, and I've only just this year had to replace an outer tie rod end.

^^^ What he said... Also check/wiggle the connector to the MAF when the condition exists. It's not uncommon for them to go bad, or get loose, and cause what you've described.

Yes....you can pull the cluster separate from the dash. It's not difficult. Pull the dash coloured trim piece from below the guages, then the black surround....then you'll see the screws to get the cluster out. Search in the How To section of the garage...there's a good writeup on how to check your codes.

Yeah....it's not so much water that hurts them, it's mud packed in there, and/or, muddy water clogging up the sliders for the brushes.....

Yep...a 15x10 is WAY too wide, unless you're going to run a 13+ width tire.

You can go up to a 31x10.5 r15 on those. For on/offroad use, the BFG AT KO's are a popular, and good choice. Nice look to them as well.

Wait a second...you paid for them to replace the studs and they didn't? Take it back. Demand they do it, if not....take them to court. If you were quoted a price, and they didn't do the work, let alone at that price...you have a strong case.

Yep...probably the terminals loose/dirty. Also, with the truck off, check the battery with a volt meter to see what it's holding. Also do the same with the truck on. If it's 13-14 volts with the truck on, but under 12 with it off, chances are it's your battery. Use the voltmeter on the posts of the battery. If both tests are okay, chances are it's the wiring/terminals that are the issue.

Yes...it makes a difference. That light isn't just your parking brake light. It's a BRAKE light. It tells you when your fluid is low, as well as when your parking brake is on. Definitely, as already instructed, check your fluid level.

Nope. Other than relocating them to the AC compressor's location, there isn't much you can do.

My leather wrapped steering wheel isn't great either, and it's only got 129,000kms. I think the more it sits in the sun, the worse they get.

Just been checked. It's good. There's nothing "wrong" with her truck, other than lots of extra weight from armor/gear. Bigger tires tend to slightly mess with the shift points as well.....but nothing too major.

x3. High flow cat.

On your stock rims, without knowing which type of stock rims they are, I can safely say you can run up to a 31x10.5" R15 on them. For rims, you're looking for anything with 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern, with at least a 100mm bore in the center (to fit over the hubs) 3.75-4" backspacing is best, and if you're looking to run 31's, or possibly larger in the future, look for a 7-8" wide rim.

On a WD21, you'll be fine. May rub a touch in the front if your t-bars have sagged. Your stock rims will be fine for a 10.5" wide tire.