Simon

So, you're saying the brakes are locking up? If so, try to track down which wheels are locking, and clean out the ABS sensor at that wheel. It's not uncommon for them to get filled with grime and dirt.

Sweet. Glad you got her fixed. Thanks for reporting back.

Yeah, a couple hundred bucks and you can have her back on the road. They'll have to basically box in the rear section of frame. Not difficult. If the rest of the truck is in good shape, it's probably worth it.

Could be the oil pan gasket, or the rear main seal. Those suggestions are both assuming you're seeing the oil on the oil pan. Also, it could simply be run off from taking the filter off. I know my truck "seems" to leak for a couple days after a change, but it's just the old oil running down the block, to the oil pan from the filter location.

I can lock up my 33" MT's in an emergency stop situation. mz, I'd suspect you've got some brake system issues if you can't lock up your 31" tires.

NO....nothing else needs to be installed for it to start. Did you disconnect the coil wire to the distributor? Is that hooked back up?

That's perfectly normal. The issue is that when the wheel is turned, the front and rear differentials are working against each other. Obviously, this is something you want to avoid. Do not use either 4hi, or 4lo on dry pavement or other high traction scenarios. Typically, that's how I test to see if 4wd system is working. I'll go into a parking lot. Throw it in 4wd, and turn sharp. If the tires squawk, or the truck "hops" a bit, I know it's all working as it should.

To be honest, I don't remember....she'd have to answer that.

Sounds like when Pezzy bent her subframe. Have a look at yours and see if it's bent.

That could throw your timing off a little, yes. Could be an issue.

LOL....dude...only you......only you. Nice to see the colourful posts again though!

I'll get you some pics of the interior of mine, unless someone else posts up sooner. How's it going out there anyways? Long time no hear!

The tranny noise is probably due to fluid starved bearings in the tranny. It's common on the WD21 Pathfinders. If it does it in all gears but 4th, that's DEFINITELY what it is. Sometimes they can go for hundreds of thousands of miles with that sound, sometimes not.

There should be a bolt holding the distributor down onto the block that if you loosen it, should allow you to turn the distributor to set ignition timing.

I just had a clogged cat in my 95. I ended up snapping the pipe right ahead of it, due to too much backpressure on a trail, in 4LO, 1st gear. Gave it some gas to bump up a rock face, and she snapped. I had poor mileage, and terrible power. I went from the manifolds back, all stainless, high flow and have MUCH more power, and far better mileage now. I had the flange leak in Old Red, and the hole in the floor. I also have a very small hole in the floor of my current truck that I still have to fix. It seems, over the years, even without the flange leak, the hole can appear, due to the heat of the exhaust passing right beside the drivers footwell in close proximity. Basically, what I'm trying to say is, there may be nothing wrong with your exhaust, and quite simply you have a hole in your floor, and the carpet caught fire. Pulling up a long hill will get things nice and toasty under there in anyone's truck. If the symptoms of low power and bad mileage have been ongoing, then I'd go with the guys who suggested the cat.

HB front seats will fit. That's about all that's a direct bolt in. Anything else will require varying degrees of fabrication....but anything COULD fit.

Fair enough. I'll agree that the average person may or may not be able to tie a decent knot. At any rate, we had a synthetic line snap on the trail last weekend, and that's what we did to fix it. He finished the pull with no issues. As you said, you weren't a judge, nor was I. So our opinions mean sweet bugger all at this point!

I call BS on that. A synthetic line breakage does not equal failure. It's as simple as tying a new know around the hook with the line....and continue winching. Not ideal, but by no means was the T-Max out of the competition.

Chevy 6 lug fit, though, double check the center bore. it must be at least 100mm

Damn shame the T-max had the line issue. From what I read elsewhere, and some others real world experience, I was expecting it to be one of the finalists, if not, the winner. T-Max is what I'll be going with when I buy one.

Don't worry too much AlMac.... 88 was probably just grumpy. Oh, and you won't get an answer out of Filthy Luker....he's been MIA for quite some time. Not on any of the boards much. You can get a Transdapt kit from Autopartsway.ca, which will help you avoid the duty charges on the kit. Their shipping usually isn't too bad, and free on orders over $100.

You can reuse the snap rings and castle nuts. For torque specs, I typically go to the high side. I've never had problems either with bolts stretching/breaking, or things coming loose that way. For the wheel bearings, mark where they line up with the hub, take them apart, clean out, repack with grease, and then tighten to the same spot. If they're still loose, tighten them up until there's no more play, but the hub still spins freely. I've done mine like that for years with no issues. Use a hammer and screwdriver or punch to tighten the nut.

They are.....and for the WD21 Pathfinder. All the same hubs.

Some of the 3.3's have the Knock sensor code almost all the time. I know a lot of Xterra owners have that issue. It does not affect emissions, as long as the CEL isn't on.

We were at CampNL. You saw my Pathy as well, most likely...as well as 2 friend's Xterras.