Simon

Tighten up any hose clamps first. If that doesn't fix it, buy a new T-stat, and throw it in. It's an inexpensive way to check anyhow. Other than that, it could be the water pump. Good luck.

use photobucket.com. Upload all your photos there. Then, when posting here, put the address of the photo within the [iMG] [/iMG] tags on it, and they'll show up in your posts.

use photobucket.com. Upload all your photos there. Then, when posting here, put the address of the photo within the [iMG] [/iMG] tags on it, and they'll show up in your posts. Alternatively, you can post 1 picture per post......so you'd have to reply to your topic as many times as you have pictures to get them all in the topic.

Yes, I've heard it called a tension rod, though, the radial rod I've never heard.

Can you get the cap off? If so, take a picture of where the rotor is sitting once you get the cap off. That way, when you put the new distributor in, you can install it with the rotor in the same spot. Then put the new cap on, and turn the distributor with a timing light and set the timing. It's pretty simple, really. You'll see what I mean when you get the cap off.

Or take the cap off, drill out the bolt, and tap it properly, and then put on a new cap. It's not difficult. No matter what you do, you'll need to get the thing moving, and out to do a half decent job.

My thoughts exactly....... It's gonna move one way or another....better to try to time it before spending the money on a distributor.

The distributor is about 10 minutes worth of work. ONe screw holds it onto the engine, and 2 electrical connections. Did your friend try to time it by turning the distributor, and putting a timing light on the harmonic balancer?

Typically, when the Alty goes, you'll have a few dash lights pop up, one being the brake light, one being the battery light and sometimes, the ABS light.

Nope....the 01's have 16" wheels stock. Anything from 99.5 has 16" wheels from the factory.

I had that issue once when I replaced a caliper on my old truck....I had air in the lines, and had to bleed the entire system, including the proportioning valve, and then the lights went out.

PM Runnerman for details. I do believe he's still in business.

If you heard a metallic noise inside the rear diff, I'd say your problem is there, regardless of what the guy told you. As a quick check, drain and refill the fluid for the rear diff, and see if you get any chunks of metal. Some (actually, very little) shavings in the fluid is normal, anything more is not.

The hoohaa centerlink is pretty much the same as the L&P centerlink. It takes out the ball joint type links for the Idler and Pitman arms and replaces them with spherical bearings that you bolt though the arm, and centerlink, sort of sandwiching them together. This takes away rotational play from the centerlink, which is bad, allowing it only to turn on a horizontal axis, with the steering wheel, via the Pitman arm. This design saves the truck from sloppy steering and misalignment, and also saves wear on the tie rods by having less movement in them. For tires, if you do a suspension lift with the body lift, equaling about 6" you can fit 33" tires with only a minor amount of metal trimming. So far, without flares on my new one, I haven't trimmed anything, and only have a touch of rubbing on the bottom, rear portion of the front fenders when turned.

The antenna in the windsheild would have the wire soldered to the base of it, right in the corner, on the passenger side, where the A-pillar meets the dash. From there, it is connected in with the mast antenna's wire, and connected to the deck.

Yep, as GG said. Easy. Just completed one on my 95 LE with Auto. Was the same as for the manual. In terms of suspension lifts, there is no cheap "kit", however, buying 93-97 Jeep Grand Cherokee FRONT coils to put in the rear, and some new Upper Control Arms (RoughCountry) then cranking up the torsion bars in the front will give you 3" of suspension lift for under $300 US. That's as good as any kit. You'll need a steering upgrade for larger tires, as if you off road the truck, you'll kill the stock centerlink VERY quickly. hoohaa on the board makes a great replacement using stock cores, and another option is Calmini, though, they're pricey.

Good job on getting it fixed, (and on Mookie for the idea) sometimes the most obvious is the most overlooked. Oh, and I believe Mookie is in the Calgary area, and I'm SURE he knows where the trails are!

Timing could do all of that. Get it timed right, and then report back. I'll be willing to bet that it'll be running MUCH better.

Same tranny.

That's a good place to start, But chances are you could have blown a whole pile of sensors and controllers by having reversed the cables. I've heard of such stories, and they never seem to end well.

No....if it only drops by 500rpms, that's the torque converter locking up. The OD will drop the revs much further than that from 3rd gear. I believe it's over 1k. Sounds to me like the torque converter is not locking/unlocking as it should. At 50-55mph, what were your RPM's at?

Not only speed, but RPM's as well, not to mention throttle position. Are you saying the RPM's drop down after being in OD? Does it only drop about 500rpms? If so, it's your torque converter locking up. Perfectly normal, and nothing to worry about. If you're saying it's downshifting out of OD often (RPM's going up) then it could just be that it can't maintain speed in OD, and has to downshift to do so. They shift a lot, as the engine (assuming you've got the VG30 engine) is underpowered.

No salt. The defense rests!

That's the part number. It works for 90-95 Pathfinders, 96-2004 Pathfinders, and 2000-2004 Xterras/Frontiers

Sorry to hear you're still going through this Red.... Hopefully Phil is just busy, and not on hiatus again. I just want to mention, that I'm sure Phil has had quite a few boards on which he's had to make good on a bunch of previously failed promises. I doubt this simply happened on NPORA. Though, a month, with no contact is a long time. Good luck with it.