Simon

Looks good man!

Stupid question, but the engine wasn't running, was it? If it was off, how long before you checked the oil? Remember, it takes a while for all the oil to end up back in the pan to properly check the level.

Was it checked right after the oil change? Is it possible that not enough oil was put in at that time?

Okay....stock length Pro comp part numbers....right from explorerprocomp.com Front: 314518 Rear: 322500 Those are both for the ES3000 model shocks.

Yes, they're different. The rears are dual eyelet, whereas the fronts have an eyelet on the bottom, and a threaded shaft to mount on the top. Not sure on part numbers, but I believe there's a thread on this. Search around for "Shock Part Numbers" and you should find a post by Cdhicks99 somewhere.

What "obvious" have you checked? If it's on the highway, typically, the fan wouldn't be on, or doing much, but moreso, the speed you're travelling at would force air through the rad to do your cooling. Possibly a blockage in the rad? Thermostat not opening? I doubt the oil filter would have anything to do with it. The regular oil filters are pretty small on even the V6 WD21 Pathfinders. Even smaller on the R50's.

No...those are there in all our frames. The problem is there's none on the bottom, for the frame to drain out. Make sure you spray it out with a power washer regularly to keep it in good shape.

Yep...the write up by Statikuz in the pinned sections is quite complete. It took me and a few friends about 5-6 hours to do the body lift on mine. Before jacking anything up, remove the stock rear bolts, then put in the longer bolts that come with the body lift in the rear most holes, but do not put in the blocks. This will help keep the body aligned as you jack it up, and make your life getting the blocks and bolts in a hell of a lot easier.

Same gearing, I believe. Gearing was more dependant on manual vs auto tranny. 31x10.5's will fit fine on the stock chromies. Legos (aluminum) had a little less backspacing, so they stuck out more. You should have no issues running 31x10.5 on either rims, and shouldn't rub much, if at all, either front or rear, unless, of course, your suspension has sagged significantly.

Yeah, as 88 said....mine does that periodically when my MAF wiring is cranky. When it happens next, go jiggle the MAF wiring (the electrical connector just past the airbox) and see if the idle steadies.

Yep...search around. There's almost nothing you can do to the IFS (independant front suspension) to increase travel. New UCA's do not increase travel. The only thing that will is removing the bumpstops, though, it's not recommended as you'll go through CV's any time you wheel. Stock length shocks are fine, as with a lift, they'll just sit at a further extended position within the stock range of travel.

The rearmost body mount bolts are different from 90-95, but that doesn't necessarily mean the mounts are in a different location. The rearmost bolts are simply larger in diameter than the older (2 door) Pathfinders. I did as many have before me, and bought the performance accessories kit, and added the correct bolts for the rear.

The gap is normal. That's not where it seals. The seal is recessed into the steering box. I do believe all the steering boxes are the same.

It takes a little getting used to....but I think I'm there. Just much different than the old software.....but I wouldn't say it's cryptic. Oh, and dagwoodzz, the search actually does work, but it doesn't seem to like short, single word searches. IE.....I searched for "hubs" a while back and got nothing.

Your friend is probably right. The ignition timing is too far advanced, causing it to knock under load. Get the ignition timing back in spec, and you'll probably be fine. Good job on the fix

I've always thought that as well. Run the same lube as the tranny, so in the event of cross contamination, there is nothing to worry about.

A friend of mine had a 2001, and even with the throttle pinned, it shifted very smoothly at all times. Remember, you're 10 years newer.....the vehicle is far more refined than it's older version. Oh, and on the "passing gear" it's dropping into 2nd. In 3rd, your gear ratio is 1:1, with 4th being overdrive. So yes, 2nd gear the RPMs should rise faster than the speedo.

http://phatg20.net/modules.php?name=Downlo...load&cid=76 Unfortunately, it starts at 94. Not a problem though, as timing information remains the same. The only difference is that you probably have the square tooth belt, and the 94 has the round tooth. What's with people beating me to posts today?!?! 88 said it....the link is above.

Not a whole bunch showing up as real problem areas on those yet. They're too new! Congrats on the purchase. The only thing is the rear control arm bushings that have a tendency to wear out quickly, giving you a wobble/loose feeling on the highway. Either you can replace the bushings, or the arms themselves. The only other complaint I've heard of from late R50 owners is the BOSE stereo dying prematurely. Not a huge issue by any means.

Just saw that you replaced the rear control arms on your Pathy yourself. If you can tackle that job, you'll have no problem with the WARN manual hub installation. I got mine from North Shore Offroad, and they were $194.86CDN (as Pezzy said above....she beat me to it). They're based in Vancouver, if I remember correctly.

Yeah, it'll be smaller and lighter. And as the lads said, your choice all depends on your terrain. Mine, for instance, are 285/75/16, which equals about 33x11.5. I like that size as it protects my 8" wide rims better than my old 10.5" wide tires, and isn't so wide that it's tough to drive on pavement. Actually, since upgrading from 32x10.5" tires to these, my gas mileage hasn't changed at all. If anything, with the size increase, it's improved.

Should work. I believe the crossmembers remained in the same place. I think Marcel only stated 90-95 as he didn't have a 2-door to personally test on. I know the front will fit, as the stock skid was the same. Maybe Slick, or Unccpathfinder can get under their 2 and 4 doors and take some measurements to see if the crossmembers are in the same place. I'm willing to bet that they are.

Glad to hear things are looking up for you, and to hear of your intentions to make things right with folks here. Good on you. Hope things continue to improve for you.

Strange that the welds on the Idler arm, and the IA brace look fine, but the ones on the CL are so shoddy. I wouldn't install that either. I can't believe the cuts on the IA brace. Looks like someone chewed that piece. Ugly stuff, though, I guess it's a function over form piece. That said, I hope they put more care into the function, than they did on the form.

R50 Pathfinders do lean a touch with a full tank, as their tanks run along the side. The WD21 Pathfinders, like yours, do not, as the tank sits dead center at the back. That definitely is not your issue. Try cranking up the torsion bar on the passenger side a bit to see if it levels out. If you don't know how, search around, the info is here.....