Simon

If you're not dealing with the 4x4 issues, then your possibilities are even more endless. The GM3.8 is a good motor. It's an archaic design, but also tried, tested and true. Lots of them around, and lots of support. Of course, a VQ35 would be really cool too....just to keep it all Jap. Tons of power in that motor as well

So post up the "niggling little things" and I'm quite sure someone will have the answer for you! If the body and frame are in good shape, these things will last forever.

Good point GhostPath. I had overlooked the Pressure regulator.

If it's always done this, and you know it's been swamped....is it possible that the PO put in a higher flow rate fuel pump, causing your issue? If it's getting too much fuel, and squeezing off the lines seems to help, I'd give that a look.

Well, "stole my money" is a little far fetched. The vehicles here are 12-14 years old. It's a stretch to angry with Nissan over quality issues when we're talking about trucks that old. I'm not saying it's not a problem....but it's not like they totally dropped the ball, they simply did not consider salt and corrosion. Many Japanese vehicles for many years suffered the same afflictions.

You're right, it is a huge design flaw. Typically, those who don't have the rust issues, point the finger at the owner and say it's because of negligence. The simple fact here is that the trucks weren't designed for climates where salt is used in winter. I just had to find a replacement for my 95, as my spring perch broke off the frame. The rest of the truck was rusting as well, and I had already reinforced quite a bit of the rear end of the frame. This time around, I'll be reinforcing early.....as the frame on my replacement (which I get today) is in much better shape than my old one. For me, body work isn't much of an issue, as I'm not worried about perfection. I simply want it to look better than rust holes. Do what you need to do....try an R50, as they don't have nearly the rust issues that the old WD21's did. The Xterra seems to be better as well. I would have gone with an X, or a Crew Cab Frontier, except that I have lots of mods that I'd have to sell that wouldn't transfer over to a newer vehicle, so I went back to a WD for now.

That's what SkinnyPedal was referring to by "nothing" is better than factory amps, and he's right. Your aftermarket deck will never sound right through the stock amps. Run new wires, or bypass the stock amps in the right rear quarter panel. You'll be much happier, even if you don't run an amp for your speakers.

That's why before putting any blocks in, remove the rearmost bolts and replace with the longer ones for the body lift. That way, the body stays aligned while jacking the truck up, and you can get the blocks/bolts in easily. Remember to lift, and insert blocks on one side at a time. Once the front 8 blocks are in, remove the rear bolts again, slide in the blocks and reinstall the bolts.

Well, first off, without throwing money at it.....I'd try to find someone with the same year, or at least, engine type VG30e, or i, as the case may be....and try swapping the TPS to see if it cures the issue. Not sure if that's an option for either of you. I'm just going off, what I think, is logical deduction. I could be way off. I drive (drove, will drive again) a manual tranny.....therefore, have never experienced what you're describing.

Actually, if it's flooding at times as well, the Autobone(head) folks could be right on the TPS. That could actually cause the combination symptoms you're experiencing, as a bad TPS can throw off a bunch of other sensors.

I'm not sure if it works on Pathy's with drums. But I've done it on a few rear drum equipped vehicles, and it did help. One was a brand new Hyundai Elantra, and the girl who owned it thought her brakes were shot already (Under 20,000kms) because of the really long pedal throw.

I'd highly doubt you have LSD in the front diff, unless it's aftermarket. THere was no such thing from the factory. 88's got you covered on all your other questions. Good luck with the project!

I don't find mine too bad, and I don't have either sway bar on. My wheels have slightly less backspacing than stock, and the tires are wider, so they stick out more than stock, which helps with stability. I drive mine every day, and have no issues. Keeping extra space between you, and the vehicle in front of you is key, as you don't want to have to make very quick turning movements........I leave enough space to know that I can escape a hairy situation just by hopping a curb, or changing lanes. some folks leave just the front swaybar on, as it really doesn't limit travel in the front end much at all......I took mine off simply because the links were so shot, it wasn't doing anything anyways. Just remember, it's a lifted truck, not a sports car....and you'll be fine.

Full lock + noise = steerings stops need to be greased. They put little plastic caps on them to stop that, but they get worn through quickly. What PL was referring to is slop in the steering. Upsized tires, suspension lift and wheeling will cause very early wear on the stock centerlink. Upgrading is a must if you wheel it. Wheel bearings won't be an issue....repack them periodically, and you'll be fine. Without aftermarket upper control arms (UCA's) you'll probably go through upper ball joints often, especially with a stiff suspension setup, as with the lift, they sit at an extreme angle.

Will you not just end up with a clogged PCV valve, and line?

Mods are looking good V6. Hope you get her back on the trails soon.

The sending unit is on top of the gas tank. I would suspect that it's a wiring issue. I've had 2 sending units die on my truck, because of bad wiring. The 2nd time, I didn't replace it, simply rewired it. You can access the sending unit via the cargo area. Pull up the carpet and you should see an access panel there. Check all your connections on top of the sending unit closely, as they're small wires, and even a slight tear in one can cause major issues.

Guys....get a few friends, and basic tools and it can be done in a few hours. Statikuz's writeup on here is good and complete. It's not a tough job, just time consuming.

I do believe the TD designation in td27 stands for turbo diesel.

For sure, however, you can't machine the front hubs down to 3", therefore, it makes more sense to bore out the wheels.

LOL...I was thinking the same thing....that'd have to be a long-a$$ bolt to hit the flywheel I'm going with K9's idea....I believe the wrong bolt has been put in that place, causing it to hit the harmonic balancer.

If the hole is too small, you'll never get it on the front, as the auto, or manual hubs, as the case may be will not fit through. The solution is to have the center of the Titan rims bored out to 100mm, as that's the diameter of the stock hubs. Then they'll slide right on, and fit, if the rest of Aries247's information is correct.

No worries. And, in case you don't know, if you do lift the truck, the stock length shocks will be fine on the front.

How long have you had the truck? Did this just start happening?

Should be alright. Any smoke coming from the exhaust? Any leaks? Get under there with a flashlight and see.....could just be that the drain plug wasn't tightened fully....