Pathylogical

I think mine is the eight speaker. I have two pillar tweets, two in the door, two in the back roof and two more tweets in front of those pointed forward. The door and cealing speakers look the same but a bit different watt ratings. They look to be 4x6 or 4x7. How do you measure a speaker? outside edge of spider housing? Mounting hole to mounting hole? speaker edge itself?

Good advice all so far. You know i do have the stock head unit but the display has gone out as is fairly common so a new head unit with 200+ watts seems a good idea without going to a new amp. I am still uncertain what to go with for speakers but I think i will change the head unit first. I saw 4x6 2way's and 4 way's at wally world both pioneer and i am guessing they would be the easiest to fit. I don't mind modifying as it is a twelve year old vehicle and all mine. I just don't want to go too crazy and cost is an issue. My big thing is like the gentleman earlier said. I liked the stock sound untill they blew. I don't need comp level speakers I just want it to sound the best it can at a resonable price. Any sugeestions on reasonable speaker replacements are still welcome.

Hey let me know how they sound if you don't mind. I was very pleased with the factory sound until they went. I just don't trust buying a speaker no one has laid ears on. I looked at the POLK 5x7's at best buy but I went back and they sounded worse than I remember. The problem is in not knowing what kinda power we have in the factory amps and what after market spec will sound best with it. Anyone else! And Thanks

I read the heated discussion on speaker sizes already but I need to know a bit more. I need to replace all stock speakers in a 95. I will probably go with 5x6 or 5x7 though I am thinking of 6.5's in the doors. What I want to know is with the scrawny amps, which speakers have you used that sound really good. Brand, model # if you can. Right now my door speakers are duct taped back together and believe it or not still don't sound terrible. The rears all the foam rotted completely. I don't have big bucks for a whole component system etc. If you put speakers in the stock system and it sounded as good as the stock once did please let me know what they are. Thanks in advance all Dan

Here is a twist to the discussion. How would you go for best sound least expensive. My speakers are shot and I expect to replace the doors and back, I listened to infinities at Best buy and they sucked, The have a set of Alpines that were much better for 110. I would also like to add a sub or maybe build a box with a couple of 8's or maybe 10"s. Doesn't have to be show quality but I'd like it to sound nice. I entered a comp back in like 83 with a mustang, We had tweets on the dash with a 100 watt amp, 5" mids in the doors again with seperate 100 watt amp, and a box with two 10"s with a 300 watt amp. Pushed 126.3 Db the whole thing had a 3 way crossover seperating out the audio, crystal clear. I think MTX was the highest shelf item.

Good grief Jim I hope you kept the best parts! You outta get more air time now! I was so depressed I went and bought a 4 runner! But it was an evil plot to wrest the 95 Pathy away from the wife and now it is mine alone!!! (insert diabolical laughter)

Thanks folks, That model run went from 2000-2004? No pathy for 2005 and reintroduced in 2006 right? We are looking used with the fewest miles probably 2003-2004. I just want to make sure there are no advantages to one year or the other. I also wanted to make sure to avoid any known problems or make sure they were fixed. I leanred that from the manifolds on the 95, I shoulda had that repaired but didn't know. We love our pathy's and just geeting ready to modernize. I get the 95 as a play toy! It already has the Calmini 3" and steering system upgrade!! wooot!

I currently have a 95 pathy and we are getting ready to buy an 03 (most likely) pathy. What should I look for in a used one. I know the 95 had the manifold issue and frame rot around the rear tires. Are there specific problems to look for on the 03's? Any advice what so ever on em? Thanks guys.

Anyone know the out put of the stock amp in the 95? I have the four 5x7s and the pillar tweets and the tweets in the back next to the roof mounts , stock tape head unit with the CD underneath. I am trying o figure out how much wattage I have.

What Eli Said. My Dad Used to run a transmission shop and I worked as an RR man. The number one killer of ATM's is HEAT! The number two killer of ATM's is high water. If you ford check your fluid. If it you see water change and flush. It is a sealed unit but the seals and gaskets can leak. Put on the tranny cooler. Nothing worse than creeping a trail working the hell out of that tranny and the fluid id side by side with the hot water in your radiator fighting for air. A seperate tranny cooler helps prevent this. If the fluid is dark and has a burnt smell you have started to cook your clutches. Feel the fluid, if you feel any grit the abrasive surfaces of the clutches have started to come off. Yes sometimes clean fluid makes it worse but it doesn't cause it, your transmission is gone and you are just waiting to get stuck on the side of the trail. When you change your fluid if you do it yourself, look in the pan, usually there is a magnet that collects metal shavings. Clean it. If you see metal in the pan (take it outside and move it around to get the sunlight to show you any metal pieces. Problem signs are burnt odor, dark fluid and metal in the pan. Even if it's healthy change your fluid and flush the system every year or 30 thousand miles max! I would go lower. Tranny shops usually flush with parts solvent then clean fluid. yes it might show a seal to leak, again not caused by the solvent just exposed by it. Good luck!

Hey Guys I just got the auto tranny fluid replaced. I seem to recall that the Pathy had a friction additive for the fluid and the guy didn't know, just got indignant and said he did it according to the computer specs! Anyway I went through 2 months of a clunky rear diff when the additive wasn't put in and need to make sure. Does anyone know if there is an extra additive in the Nissan tranny for the 95 Pathy? TIA Dan

I have a similar problem on my 95 hardbody with the 4cyl. If I stop it Hot and let it sit a short time, it sounds like the engine is comming unglued. Very loud lifter clack. It goes away after a short period of time and will be smooth as a kitten.

I just put on the full deluxe Calmini lift and I could not be happier. The difference in feel is just amazing. It comes with everything you need coils, UCA's , new torsion bars, and all the msic parts. The Ball joints look a little weak but they are certainly better than I had and I'll use em till the wear. I also got the steering upgrade but have yet to put it on. The lift was pretty easy to install myself with the help of a friend. Make sure you have a good jack and stands. The hardest two parts were removing the old bolts from the upper control arms. The rubber had basically fused to the bolt and we had to burn em out. New ones would alleviate that problem. The other problem has getting to the three bolts at the front of the torsion bar. Move the jack up and down and you will be surprised to see hoe each bolt is accessable depending on height and DO NOT remove the hardest bolt, there is no need to. If you loosen it you can get the torsion bar out.

I just did the full Calmini 3 inch lift and I am about to put in their steering upgrade. I love the lift. Just the upper A arms made a huge difference in feel (very solid). I had to burn/grindcut the bolts outta the old a arms however. The rear suspension Bracket gave us a hell of a time aligning up also. The torsion Bars aren't that hard but the three bolts in the front are hard to get to. Use a jack to raise/lower for getting position on them, Also I didn't need to lossen the larger lower bolt to get mine in and out. The full kit makes it seem like a new vehicle on the road. It has a much more positive solid feel to it. I am putting in the steering upgrade and the parts are amazingly beefy.

I just found a bunch of rust on the drivers side above the rear wheel. 8 inches along the frame whole outside of the box frame. I am gonna have a plate welded over it after treating and ride it out.