Simon

Worthless. For instance. Ford Explorers in the mid 90's were equipped with PS coolers. Now, they don't even sell replacement coolers for trucks that need them. Ford mechanics will simply remove them, and install new lines bypassing where it would normally be.

Depends. How often do you use 4wd? If not often, you could leave it be for a while. If you're wheeling it, change it ASAP, as a failure in either of the half shafts renders your 4wd system useless. It's an easy enough swap.....and used and/or reconditioned parts shouldn't cost too much. In terms of what else to look for, check your tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, upper and lower ball joints. Any or all could cause some popping.

Sorry to hear about your health issues. That, obviously, is more important than anything else. Hope you get the truck sold soon.

Yes they will.....that's how most of us got them. Around Christmas time they were about $160USD. Call them up and say you just need the UCA's.

OH...my mistake. I didn't read completely, aparently, as I didn't realize you were blowing fuses. In that case, I'd unplug the harnesses to your taillights, and then put in a new fuse, and try again. If the console lights come on, and the fuse does not blow, you know it's something in the taillight wiring. Then you can try plugging in one side, then the other, to see which side it is.

check the A/C fuse. And I'm not sold on the AC being cheaper. I've run with the windows down, and the AC when it worked.......and noticed no difference.

Here's a link to his original ad... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14191 My opinion...... It looks like it needs a lot of work. And as much as you're probably not expecting much......people look at their own trucks and figure it's the devil you know. LIke, mine probably needs as much work as that one, but I know what has been done, and what needs to be done.....so I'd stick with mine. If anything, I'd say give people a ballpark figure on what you'd like to get for it, and see how it goes. Also, go through and see what parts are actually good, and get rid of anything that isn't. Kinda looks like it's a dumping ground for some useless parts. Though, admittedly, it is tough to tell their usefulness in the pics.

Dammit....you're right. I know what I was thinking.....but I used the wrong terminology. It's the receiver/dryer I was referring to. The little canister beside the condensor.

Okay....the evaporator is the most important part, oddly. It acts as a filter for anything in the system. If ANYTHING....that has to be new. The condensor (rad like thing in front of your rad) can be old/used.....though, make sure it'll still seal, and that the fittings aren't rotted. If your compressor still turns when engaged, it's probably fine. You're right though, it is cheaper to roll down the window......plus, if you wheel it......you may want to look into swapping your alternator into the AC Compressor location. I've been toying with the idea for a while.

Oh YOU figured it out did you?!?! :tonguefinger:

Yeah....definitely soak the bolts. I've got a crew set up for this weekend for my BL....so last weekend I tried cracking all the bolts (which I had soaked). One of the rear bolts snapped, causing me to have to cut a small hole in the cargo area to extract the "captive nut" (was no longer captive). Also, one of the 2nd (from the front of the truck) body mounts gave me a pretty good workout as well. As much as it was a pain to do, I'm glad I got that all out of the way before getting 4 guys together to help with the body lift only to run into those issues. Hopefully with enough soaking, the steering shaft will work out. If not, one of the guys is a metal worker by trade, and will weld in an extension.

From what I hear, you shouldn't go with junkyard parts for the A/C system. Once the lines have been opened (leaks, or blown lines) typically they contaminate quite quickly. I investigated my options for getting my AC back up and running after one of the fittings on the condenser blew on mine. I was told at the very least I'd need a new evaporator, and condenser (due to the blown fitting). There are recharge kits available at auto parts stores that you could use to charge the system yourself. Around here (Toronto, Ontario, Canada) they're around $70-100.

Your Headlight switch is the culprit. I had the same issue. some folks have had luck taking them apart, and cleaning the contacts, and bending them back into place.....however, I just replaced mine with a junkyard unit. Oh, and welcome! Be sure to introduce yourself, and let us know about your truck in the welcome section.

Meh...I don't find them bad at all. Pezzy's seats are pretty comfortable.

I had wondered why many WD21 owners had complained of seat comfort, when I've always found mine quite good. Guess the SE does have superior seats. Good to know.

I do believe you need to have the engine on to get an accurate reading, as at that point, fluid is pumping through the cooler(s) and through the lines and tranny. I don't think you can accurately check it with the engine off.

Me too. THanks giancarlo!

Well, if it's manual, you're 1000lbs under max tow rating. As long as you know what you're doing, clutch-wise, you'll be fine. Make sure, if you haven't already, that you've got the tranny fluid filled to 5.1qt as opposed to what the fill hole allows. There's a TSB around here about the issue of fluid starvation to the front bearings. Oh yeah....and ONLY use GL-4.

Yep....she can do it. Auto or Manual? If auto, make sure you install an aftermarket, external tranny cooler if you haven't already done so.

You'll hear a whining in all gears except 4th.

MHC: Seriously dude.....search. SAS can be done with any sort of springs......other than T-bars. SAS=Solid axle swap. Nothing in there designates what type of suspension setup will be used with it. There are multiple options. Leafs, Coils, coilovers etc.

88, I think the part of his title "Coil Overs" will take care of the t-bars....

Thanks Marcel. No worries, I was just giving you a hard time.

Nope....you'll never get it to seal the inside of the frame completely, then you'll just have it sitting there, holding the moisture against the inside of the frame. Not to mention, road salt, or other grime in there will just be held in place by the foam. Oil the inside, coat the outside in whatever rust resistant paint, or coating you can find. Re apply probably yearly.

Good to hear, Marcel. Hope things keep on the upswing for you. Now where's Pezzy's Z-bracket for her tcase skid!!!