Simon

for that distance, get a ratchet strap, and just try to secure the UCA to the knuckle. You'd be surprised how strong they are. People have used them to secure broken engine mounts. :contract:

Agree with you Red. And Nissandoms.....Phil could be Santa Claus for all I care....if I was out $300+ or even $190 to him for no good reason, I'd be looking to knock out teeth as well. I understand your position defending your friend, but neither you, nor Phil have a leg to stand on here until Phil comes online, and/or contacts those involved and makes the situation right. All you're doing is making it look like you condone ripping people off. Don't think you want to give people that impression of yourself.

I would. If it ain't broke, don't fix it....

No worries, was a while ago......and I may not have explained myself clearly enough.

No.....I'm not saying they will..... Exhaust leak is most likely your issue.

Yeah....worst case, you've already figured you need a knuckle, so if somehow you DO break it, no real loss. But I've beat the hell out of mine getting a ball joint out with no ill effects.

Negligible. The extra weight of the tires, even at highway speeds usually eats that up. NOt to mention, the extra friction from typically wider tires as well. When I upsized, I was happy to simply not LOSE highway mileage.

That's what I was telling him to do, though, sans brass bar. It's not necessary, as the knuckle is cast......you're not going to hurt it.

Lots of modification. It'll be way too narrow, not to mention, all the mounting points will be way off.

I thought I could get away without changing it, but 10,000kms down the road after my t-belt, my WP started to leak. I'd change it out.

I had the same issue. Snapped off a UCA bolt, as it was seized in there. Ended up drilling both holes out, and running heli-coils. Been in a year, with no issues, and now I have grade 9 bolts in there as well, as the place I went to were out of grade 8.

Meh...in the winter, leave them locked. Basically, you end up with the stock setup by doing that anyways, as R50's have drive flanges, so the front end is always rotating. Just unlock in the spring/summer/fall, and reap the benefits. Those being better mileage, and longevity of the CV's, Differential etc.

Where'd you get them? My springs have sagged horribly over the last couple of years as well....

Really? I've always put grease in mine. Never had an issue with them locking, or unlocking.......

Lower is tough too.....You're better off taking the whole knuckle out to do it as well. It's not hard. Just a little time consuming.

Desperate times call for desperate measures. Take the entire knuckle out, put it in a vise, or press, and force the thing out of there. I have a ball joint puller, not a pickle fork that makes life real easy for me when I have a stubborn joint, but I still have to undo everything but the lower ball joint to get the top one out, using it.

Another thing to try is to give the side of the knuckle where the ball joint goes through a good whack with a hammer. Sometimes that'll loosen them up as well. Short of that, heat, and penetrating lube (PB Blaster seems to be the best) and keep working at it.

How much?

I believe MZ was referring to the ones with the old (current) URL on it. Rather than wait until we switch servers, and URL's and have new stickers made.

Mr P. You're right, but don't you slide it forward, towards the front of the truck?

I tried to install one on Pezzy's truck, and was not able to mount the filter adapter to the engine block. There simply was not enough room. It seems the filter typically used on the R50 is the max diameter you can fit in there, and the filter adapter is slightly larger, thus, it did not fit.

Guys...the "Bump and the lights come on" thing is very common, and an easy fix. It's typically the hatch that shakes open. Undo the screws holding the latch (mounted to the floor in the back) for the hatch, and move it forward as far as it can go, then tighten up the screws again. That'll most likely solve your issue.

Okay...I assume you wired your deck using a wire harness, that hooks into the one in the dash, and you then spliced that into the Kenwood Harness for your deck? If so, the issue is this; stock amplifiers. They'd need to be bypassed in order to allow your volume to go high enough from your Kenwood headunit to put enough juice through the RCA's to have sound out of the sub. It's probably working, just at VERY low volume. Chances are, turning the volume knob on the Kenwood unit very slowly increases volume quickly.... If you bypassed the stock amps, then your issue could be any of the ones mentioned above.

Mods/Admin: If you want him gone, you all have the power to do so....do it. Sarcasm/snide remarks won't do it. That said...... Jay, You've pretty well thoroughly annoyed everyone here. Your communication skills on a couple of deals were suspect, to say the least, not to mention, as Dan pointed out, you don't seem to read posts. You've asked the same questions 100 times, without making any attempt to understand what was said. I'd say if you're going to come back, come back quietly, not offering "free services" or trying to get people to your site. Post a link in your sig, and anyone that's interested will click it. I have no personal issue with you, as our deal on the skids went fine, but I will offer this advice: Read. Search. THEN ask questions. When you get replies....READ and COMPREHEND them. If you have an answer you don't understand, search for it. All the answers are here somewhere.

It seems to me the site was only down for a day or two, then back up as if it never left. Hopefully Phil comes on here with an explanation at some point. BLG....really sorry about all the crap you've been through with them.....it's a shame, because they really do make a good product.