Simon

Okay... Spindle nut 52-76 Spindle to frame bolts 80-108 ball joint bolts (the 4 little guys at the top) 12-17 Ball joint crown nut 58-108 Those measurements all in ft-lbs

I had to do the same thing, and I bought new spindles with mine. SkinnyPedal had to do the same as well. I basically just took the black finish off the spindles when I did it, and the bushings went on nice and tight. Could have probably pounded them on as they were, but figured I'd make my life a little easier.

Synthetic oil is better. As mentioned, it will show more leaks than with a conventional oil.....though does not CAUSE them. If I thought, with ~300,000kms on my truck, that synthetic oil wouldn't leak out all over the place, or into the combustion chamber, I'd switch over as well.

I have the cherry bomb glasspack as well....sounds alright.....though, sounded better when I didn't have an exhaust leak at the Y-pipe. For $30CDN, I couldn't go wrong.

Yeah, in the center console, usually clipped to the lid of the console. Terrible spot for them. I have them, and don't use them.

Welcome back Jim. Hope things continue on a steady upswing for you.

Congrats Scott.

That's not too bad..... So you fuel pump died afterall? Hopefully if they were good enough to cover the tow, they'll be good enough to admit if they did something wrong.

Unless they took the hub apart to get at the upper ball joint (for a puller) I can't see any reason they'd have to be in there for what you had done. Ask if they had the hub apart, and if so, maybe they did overtighten the bearing. If not, you may have to expedite the Warn manual hub purchase.

My UCA's took a while to do, as even though I bought new spindles, I didn't have the hardware for them, so I had to pull that off the old UCA's. That took a while, as 12 years of rust made them pretty tight. The removal/install, though, was quite easy. Shocks are part of the UCA job anyways, as you have to undo the top mount for the fronts. Rears are simple. Rear coils are also easy. Basically, in a day, working slowly, there's no reason you couldn't have the full lift in.

Yessum.

I've heard it does help, on WD22 Xterra's. I'm planning on doing that shortly, with a stealth snorkel as well. I'll let you know how it works out.

If you ran out of gas....check your fuel pump fuse. Same thing just happened to another member, and his fuel pump fuse blew.....

I believe the same 5 speed was used for all Pathy's. There is another one mentioned in the FSM, but that's for the D21 Pickup, with the 4cyl engine.

Woohoo for $20 glass pack!!! It's not nearly as loud as I thought it'd be.....and cheap....so I don't have to worry about bashing the hell out of it off road.

Yes, actually, your clifford IS aftermarket, and it IS a Viper alarm. As is my Avital alarm. All made by directed electronics, and all the same thing, other than slight model variances.

Not 100% sure on the wiring, but Nissan put the same VG33E engine in Pathfinders from 96-2000. ALso, Xterra's from 2000-2004 have the same engine, as well as Frontiers. I would think that any of the engines would be a plug and play installation in your truck, since they're all the same......though, the ECU's for each could be slightly different.

You can mount it between the rad and condensor, and to the side is fine. Typically the tranny heats up WAY more when you're moving, so the airflow forced through the front will help cool it. The best way to find out which one is the in, and which is the out, is to have a bucket, put the lines in it, start the truck momentarily, then see which hose the fluid is flowing out of.

As does mine. I've gone over in my head a million times what to do with it.....and I've figured that my little welder, and sheet metal for body parts, and my friends bigger welders and steel plate for the frame, and I should be able to keep her running for a few more years. I just hate to give up on it, as I do love the rusty ol POS.

Definitely not uncommon. I know a few people who have found holes under their rear seats.

I figure if they fit in the heads the way you put them, and you were able to tighten the flange down, you have nothing to worry about, and your logic of having more threads in the aluminum head is valid to me. I'd say whether or not it was SUPPOSED to be done that way, yours may be the better way.

That sounds to me like the MAF wiring. Mine would idle real funny, and like to stall out on me at times when my wiring was acting up. I'd check the groud primarily, but disconnect, clean the connectors, and reconnect.

Max has a caR50. Rack and pinion steering.

Nope...been too cold....maybe this weekend, if it stays warm.

There's a thread on here started by SkinnyPedal making reference to premature wearout of his Calmini Upper Control Arm bushings. He only had them on for 25,000kms, and already the bushings are shot, not to mention the squeak that almost every Calmini customer experiences with their arms. That's not NEARLY good enough, for the price of them.