Simon

Not a straight bolt on. You'll have to modify the mounting brackets to make it fit. Once you do, though, it'll look stock, as the truck's shape didn't change

Yeah, I'd say the two problems are unrelated. Try to clean off all the oil underneath, and then start it up, and see if you can see the source of the leak. Don't let the hot oil drip on you though..

Ahh...you're right. Lots of options in the 33" size, but only one in 32". Sorry about that.

To fit 33's, in that width, you'll need a 3" Suspension lift, and 3" body lift. And you'll still rub at full flex.

I believe BFG makes them, in the AT. I know they have a lot of odd sizes....check them. Great tire as well.

That I don't know. I do know that the 90-04's have 28 splines, and the Warn Premium part number is 29091. I believe that's also the part number for the 00-04 Xterra's

Not to mention, it's not JUST bolted to the pinch seam. It bolts to the body as well.

Yeah. Big difference. Auto locking hubs are just that. You switch into 4wd, via the lever, and they lock with one revolution of the wheels. Automatically. Manual locking hubs have a dial that you turn to lock, and unlock them. The benefit of the manual hubs is that they're more durable, and they are positively locked. Whereas, with the autos, sometimes forward/reverse motion can cause them to lock, and unlock as you change directions. Not good when you're trying to get through rough terrain.

Clearance on the hitch isn't nearly as much of an issue on R50's as it was on the WD21's. The hitches on old Pathy's hangs down A LOT. It seems on the R50's they're tucked up nicely.

Yep. It unbolts from the water pump. 4 little nuts hold it on. It's a PITA to get your hand in there to work, but very do-able.

NO! They're $150 or so. Pezzy knows of a site where they're $130US. As JJ said above, that's just the rebuild kit for $20 US

Nope. Pezzy's 99.5 has the 28 spline front shafts as well. And I believe someone else here with an '03 Pathy just fit the same hubs.

Hmm....I hadn't thought of that, though, it makes sense, though, I'm sure the difference is negligible.

OOOO....Mr. Technicality!!! 88's right, it is bolted to the flexplate. What I was getting at (and, I'm sure, Pavelow as well) is that the tranny has to be dropped to access it.

THe only way I can see that being the case, is due to the difference in UCA bumpstop construction. Might be slightly lower profile. Otherwise, unless you're using BJ spacers, travel shouldn't increase at all. I think your CV's might be crapping out due to being run at a high angle all the time, and then stressed even further when you flex out. I am willing to bet that if you dropped the front end .5", your CV's would last twice as long.

You'll be able to run a 2" or 3" BL with no issues on your auto, unless something is different in the tranny setup with the TD27T engine. Most suspension lifts people are running here are 3". There are a couple running the Trailmaster 4". As far as I know, neither increases travel in the front end. There isn't much that will. The rear travel can be increased by installing longer shocks, that allow the rear suspension to droop further. Also, removing the rear swaybar, or installing quick disconnects will help that as well.

If that's the case, you'll be fine. Though, it will handle differently than your current tires if you ever have to use it, though, probably less noticeably so than your current, smaller spare.

Yeah, as Pavelow said, it's inside the tranny. I would think if the tranny was rebuilt a year ago, you should have some warranty on that work, and the torque converter would be part of it. Go back to the shop that rebuilt it, and see what they have to say. Good luck.

Yeah, they are. MikeVanceinWI, Try searching for a boot for a 94. I've found with some aftermarket parts places, they don't have listings for 95, as halfway through, they started making the R50..... It'll be the same part.

SteeevO on NPORA. He started a business... http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/

Not sure. I would think the R50 one would be longer, as the truck is wider. Best way to check, I'd think would be to call a nissan dealership, and check the part numbers.

How? I don't know of a way to get the boot on the outer CV, without sliding it over the entire shaft, once the inner CV is removed.

Martin has a good point, however, the 6cyl JGC coils in the rear, if you have a tire carrier, will sag to the point of no lift if you have a full sized spare. My 8cyl HD coils have sagged quite a bit since I put them in, as my 32" tire on the carrier adds a considerable amount of weight. Might be beneficial to get the heavier coils, keeping in mind they'll settle/sag in a few months. I agree 100% though, that cranking the T-bars too high puts too much stress on CV's and balljoints and other components, especially without aftermarket UCA's.

Sounds to me like the maybe the torque converter isn't unlocking properly. I had it happen to me in an older car, and it would stall coming off a highway, when the torque converter had locked up. Forcefully downshifting, as you're doing by turning off the OD, makes it unlock, and shift into a lower gear.

NOt really. The bigger you can fit, the better. You want that fluid to stay nice and cool. Towing a trailer, especially up any hills will heat it up quickly.