Simon

Yeah, I've loaded my 95 up with 1500lbs + a couple of times, and been fine, biodegradeable frame and all!! The cargo capacities are based upon the soft suspension components used on stock R50's so that they ride nice. With the lift springs and better shocks, that number increases exponentially.

OH, and the +10 Hp is negligible. The bigger factor is manual vs auto transmissions. Pezzy's R50, though, admittedly, carrying a lot of extra weight in bumpers/armour etc...is quite a bit slower than my old WD, simply due to transmission.

Atta boy XPLORx4 I like the R50's. They're nice when properly done up. Like Pezzy's and XPLORx4's and Vengeful's. However, the running CaR50 joke still makes me laugh.

I assume because you said ratchet in your problem description, that you're having issues removing the bolt. There are a couple of ways to get it off. Try a big breaker bar, and have the transmission in gear to try to break it loose. Otherwise (VERY carefully) prop the breaker bar up against part of the frame, remove the coil wire from the distributor, and bump the starter. That'll break the bolt loose real quick. Make sure you've removed the coil wire, as you don't want the truck firing up with the breaker bar on the bolt.....could get ugly real quick.

Fram's product guide shows the same oil filter for the 3.5, and the 3.3, so the kit listed above should work for the "Good" engine as well. Though, I don't know why I'm sharing such valuable information with a Canucks fan!

In doing some research for Pezzy's truck, I came across this. 96-04 Nissan Trucks & Xterra V6 3.3L F/inj. Dual filter kit # 1258, single filter kit # 1158 Transdapt Parts list So, just try to find a Transdapt dealer near you!

You can download the factory service manual in PDF format....which is INFINITELY better than a chilton's or Haynes. There are links here on the board somewhere, do a search.

There are tools you can get with teeth that will bite into them, to remove them. Then you can just replace with regular lugs. I've heard of people breaking them with a hammer and chisel......but I'd be afraid to try that personally.

Good point Denis. I hadn't thought of the elements, I was thinking only in a mechanical sense.

You can take them out, and have the truck in 2wd ONLY. I don't know that spinning the front diff without any resistance could harm it, but it's possible. If you take the front shafts out, and only use 2wd, basically nothing changes in your driveline as the front diff doesn't spin, nor to the shafts....so you're just decreasing weight.

Undo the 4 bolts that hold the Ball joint to the lower control arm. Trying to remove the ball joint from the knuckle can be very difficult, sometimes requiring a press.

Especially when some gomer gets a 10 truck convoy stuck in 3-4ft snowbanks for 2 hours. Nice line SkinnyPedal!!!!

Yes, the O2 sensor is right before the cat. Easy to access, but quite possibly not that easy to remove. They can seize in there quite well at times.

I'm running the Bosch Platinum +4's in my 95, and never had an issue. Due for replacement soon, with over 100,000kms on them. I may try the NGK Iridium plugs next, but the Bosch plugs have served me well.

Summit doesn't ship to Canada, if I remember correctly, and if they do, any savings will be lost through duties and such. Performance Improvements is fairly local to SkinnyPedal.

The torsion bar IS the spring. It twists, giving you the suspension action, just like a strut, or spring. If you crank them, you WILL need to get it aligned, and if you crank too high, you will most likely need aftermarket Upper Control Arms to get it to align properly.

Stay away from them Wayne, they're BS. The only way I can see there being ANY sort of benefit would be if you're running an MSD ignition, or similar. Get yourself a decent set of Taylor 8mm wires and be done with it. You can order them at Performance Improvements for about $100 CDN if I remember correctly.

could be the ECM.... but first check all the connections to it, including the ground. that could be your issue as well.

LMFAO!! Well done, Grasshopper!!!

Instructions come in the box.....a Body lift IS a LOT of work from what I hear. Very labour intensive, but not difficult. Just make sure to do one side at a time, and when jacking up the body, have someone look to see that nothing is binding/catching (hoses/lines), then slide the blocks in, and bolt them up. The biggest issue I've heard when doing a body lift, is that sometimes the steering shaft doesn't want to extend. So you have to take it out and "persuade" it. Other than that, you may need to notch the floor, or extend your shifter for your 4x4, as it may not go all the way into 4Lo.

AC sells for the 95. It's a 87-90 kit, with the correct bolts added for the other WD21's. www.4x4parts.com

Maybe a stupid question, but I'll ask anyways. Does your Pathy have daytime running lights? I have an issue with my DRL module that causes one of my headlights to stay off for a while, then I go give the pass. side fender a tap, and it comes on. I need to bypass that module. Just a thought anyways.

You'd have to reset the computer, by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so, or having it reset with a scanner, or by the dealer. Some auto parts stores in the US can clear codes as well, and will do it for free. First thing to do is change the fluid in your diff, if it's an LSD diff, make sure you get fluid with the LSD additive. IF that doesn't work, might be something actually wrong in there, which would require you to open it up, and have a look.

I couldn't get mine out without removing the knuckle completely. Just undo the 4 bolts for the lower BJ, and remove the whole knuckle. I also had to unbolt the lower shock mount. As 88 said, the knuckle is heavy, so be careful if you do have to remove it.

Rather than using a clamp to get the upper balljoint back into place, just jack up the lower control arm so that it's almost level, then getting the upper balljoint in place is easier.