Simon

Leave it for a little while. It should loosen up a little bit as the spherical bearings work in a bit. Mine was really stiff when I first installed my CL as well..

LOL....It's funny cuz it's true!!

Absolutely that's a deal. If I'm not mistaken, Nissan wants a mint for that part with bushings..... I think Filthy Luker (who hasn't been on here in months) had to do them on his....and paid considerably more.

My guess is the wiring to your sending unit....had a similar problem a couple of years ago. The guage SHOULD move up with the key in the "on" position.

Mine has cloth, and only 1 heated seat.

They aren't rare!!! sly:

Mine work well, and Martin, I've considered looking for another heated seat at the junkyard to throw in the passenger side for Pezzy...

Mine snapped off mine 2 years ago. Now I just use a prybar to adjust the tension, and tighten the upper and lower bolts. I've had no issues that way.

Well, it's not a kit, per se. As 88 said, Rough Country (rebranded Superlift) UCA's, and Jeep Grand Cherokee coils in the rear will get you lifted as high as the Calmini kit. Then choose the shocks that you like. Rancho 5000's are a popular choice, as are the Pro-Comp 3000's, which are cheaper. All in all, it's just as easy to install as the Calmini "kit" and a hell of a lot cheaper. Plus, no squeaks with the Superlift UCA's.

Mine ran like crap when cold when my O2 sensor was shot. Good chance that is your problem. Especially since the check engine light is illuminated.

My opinion, on this topic is that it's a 50/50 thing. Yes, maintenance of the frame is key, as with any aspect of the vehicle, though, I have to say that the frames more prone to rust than almost any other vehicle I've seen. For instance, my parent's 95 Explorer frame is in damn near pristine condition, and has spent it's entire life in the same salt infested area as my 95, which has had some frame repair, and is in need of more. Let's be a little more levelheaded here guys.....Nissan made a good truck, that, yes, has flaws. As does any other vehicle. No need to beat it into the ground, nor make it out to be something far more wonderful than it is.

Or do you hear the starter going, but the engine doesn't turn over? If so, could possibly be that it's not engaging the flywheel to turn the motor over.

We know all about Calmini. Some have had good luck, some, not so much. Personally, from the horror stories I've heard about them, I've stayed away. (Bad customer service, horrible ship times, and SQUEAKY Upper control arms) Besides, the same amount of lift, at the same, or higher quality can be achieved much cheaper.

Just the front. The rear is not supposed to be serviced. It's rare that they go anyways. Not unheard of, but rare.

Yes, there were some earlier models, usually XE's with manual locking hubs standard. I believe these were only in the 2 door models from 87-89. If I remember correctly, all 4 door North American models came with auto hubs stock.

I can't see it causing a problem. I had topped my old pump up with PS fluid, without issue. Of course, it was leaking...previous to me putting in PS fluid, but worked fine for the 6 months or so that I was too lazy to change it out.

Then you should follow 88_Pathy's instructions. Only issue is, do you know which O2 sensor is pooched? If you don't have a CEL on, chances are they're okay, as the R50's are VERY sensitive, it seems, to any 02 sensor issues. Pezzy has already had to replace all 4 on her 99.5

It's a sway bar link. I don't even have a rear swaybar. It's fine, though, my frame doesn't look ANYTHING like that. Good luck with the repair.

If I'm not mistaken, the R50's have the same front diff as the WD21's, which is an R200. There are TONS of WD21's on 33's, and larger, using stock differentials. I can't see that being a problem. You may have been reading about the Newer Xterra, and Frontier that have a 180mm diff, cased in aluminum, that's been known to grenade. Oh, and the chances of you ruining a Nissan rear differential are slim to none.

Probably fine, as long as you didn't make too many sharp turns. To test, go into a parking lot with dry pavement. Put it in 4HI and turn the wheel sharp, then move forward SLOWLY. It should sort of buck/hop on you....that way you know your 4wd is working.

Looks good V6! Was the original bumper that got smashed up an ARB as well?

A win is a win. We'll take em however we can get em these days!

I'm with 89_TB.....no need to crank too high. I've got about an inch of space between my upper bump stops, with stock UCA's and I'm running 32" tires. With a BL, I'd fit 33's easy. Cranking them higher doesn't do anything for you, unless you try to wedge a 35" tire under your truck. The ONLY thing that increases your ground clearance is tires. Lifts just give you more room to fit bigger ones.

Yeah....that'd work. I know here, at Canadian Tire, they have books in the aisles with all the interior lights used in popular models.....figured the same would apply in US auto parts stores.

Err.....5/8" Sorry.... -alcohol- Anyways....Wasn't sure......I know it's one of the standard sparkplug sockets that fit properly.....couldn't remember off hand which one..... Check the socket on one of the new plugs to ensure you're using the right one.