Simon

Don't waste your money, IMHO. Get a set of Jeep Grand cherokee coils, and some Roughcountry UCA's and you'll get the same amount of lift, for like 1/3 of the price.

Seafoam is seafoam. It won't hurt anything, it basically just cleans out your engine. Carbon deposits and sludge buildup. It's a good thing. The only thing that could POSSIBLY be an issue, is if the sludge in your engine is slowing/preventing an oil leak, the seafoam will clean that out. Chances are, though, that won't be an issue.

Yeah....breaker bar should work on the UCA's unless the bolts are seized, like one of mine was. Of course, the breaker bar lived up to it's name when I snapped the bolt. Meh....you'll get them off at least!

On that note as well, try Seafoam. IF it's a sticky lifter, Seafoam should clear it up.

And yes, they'll fit. You shouldn't have any problem getting them off, though, you could be in for a fight getting an impact gun in there.

No....the 95 recommends 5w30 for a HUGE temperature range, although, in warmer climates, 10w30 is also allowed. Might want to try 10w30 as mws suggested, as it could help your issue.

Runnerman is his board name.

Strange. I think your idea of taking off belts to diagnose is a good one. You could also try some belt conditioner if you have it, in case it's just belt squeal......but that's not a metal on metal sound.....that's what's scary.

Cool....looking forward to what you find out.

Well, maybe just to keep contaminants from getting into it. Plug it up, maybe if you can find a couple of short bolts that'll screw in. That should help the life of your rad a bit.

That it is sammy. SuperSon, get that sucker bypassed, and soon.

Quest alty is 90 amp....or at least, the earlier ones were.

I did.....and he said it was a Quest Alty he put in NIssie's truck. I'm curious to hear back from SolidSnake on the status of his comparison of the two alty's at Checker.

Jack it up from the diff, then throw some jack stands under the frame rails, and lower the jack back down. That'll most likely get you enough room to get the stock coils out.

Use some silicone lube on it. That should keep it moving.

Upper ball joints are pretty easy. You may need a ball-joint puller, or pickle fork to get them out of the spindle. Really, should be an hour job, for both sides. Sometimes, tapping on the side of the spindle where the ball joint goes through will help loosen them up.....but I always use a ball joint puller.

60 or 70....I can't remember.

That's great news.......90 amp alty that bolts on without modifications = Looking up local wreckers now!

Even at stock height, though, it will do that if the CL is shot. Mine did. Definitely though, get it replaced (go with L&..you'll never have to buy another one) and get it aligned. Also, check your upper ball joints, and tie-rods for play.

No....aparently that guy got fired for selling things too cheap....LOL ~$160 USD is what you should expect to pay.

Yep...I use my pocket knife to pry open the door when the mechanism has frozen. Just stick the knife in center height at the rearmost portion of the door, and pry slightly outwards...it'll open.

Well, not really while driving....but here's one thing I did while looking for 4x4 vehicles to ensure that it was working. In a parking lot, put it in 4HI, and turn the wheel as sharp as you can to either side. Move forward SLOWLY. What you should feel is a little hop/bucking as the tires sort of bind against themselves. Good, quick test. I stress SLOWLY though, as you don't want to bind up your transfer case on dry pavement. Now...with that said.... The 4x4 system in these trucks is fairly stout. The hubs are typically the weakest link, and most serious wheelers change them out to manual locking hubs. In order to ensure that it keeps working, change the fluid in your diffs, and t-case in accordance with Nissan maintenance requirements, and don't under any conditions, use 4wd on dry pavement. It'll tear up the transfer case in no time. Yes, I realize my example for testing the 4x4 tells you to do just that, but it's only very slowly, and just enough to feel a little buck. Then turn the 4x4 off.

Hey Skrill, when did that change? I know I got mine at Crappy last year.

My guess would be water in the lines. I'd have the fluid changed out.

And a 32 will rub like hell.....believe me.....I tried.... Stick with a 31x10.5, unless you lift. You can do a good 3"SL for $300-$400 Search around. Here's your keywords: Jeep Grand Cherokee (JGC) Coils RoughCountry (rebranded Superlift) UCA's