Simon

There's a clip behind the adjuster, that, when removed, should allow you to slide the adjuster back to move it a couple of splines.

1) There should be a clip that holds the T-bar in place. Pull it back, rotate it a couple of splines, and put it back in....then crank. You may be able to slide the adjuster back far enough to be able to move it a couple of splines without having to slide the bar itself back. 2) Yes, put the adjusters in relatively the same place, and then crank....keep them even, as they should, barring any issues with your t-bars, give you the same amount of lift, for the same amount of cranking.

Chilkoot is a Canadian model. It's an XE with a few extra toys added.

Is it the fronts that changed in terms of the mounting brackets then?

That was my thinking as well, but it'd have to be REALLY shot. My money is on loose lugs, or bad bearing.

Not sure on the bumpers being completely compatible from 87-95. The brackets may have changed, as there were a couple of bumper changes. Easiest way would be to get a bumper from a 93-95. Then it's like 2 bolts per side.

a bushing could cause it....but it'd have to be really bad. Possibly a bearing in the rear that's loose? Checked the lugs?

Hubs will be fine. You'll blow through CV joints like mad though. Best bet, if you're lifted, get a set of aftermarket upper control arms (RoughCountry, which are rebranded Superlift arms are the best deal) and call it a day. I'd stay away from the spacers if you're into situations where you're flexing out the front suspension, and giving it gas......asking for trouble, in my opinion.

Are the master cylinder's not different from Drum brake to Disc brake versions, or am I out to lunch on this one?

Yeah, it's not to bad to if it's the blower motor resistor, which, is replaced by the blower amplifier in a Climate Controll equipped Pathy/QX4. Unfortunately, I don't believe the 2 are interchangeable.

Yep.....4 hours on a weak battery will do it. My old battery, about 6 months before it crapped out completely only took 1 hour with an interior light on.

Now, I don't know if this stuff is still available, but my dad had a little tub of it laying around for years, and I tried it on my chrome bumpers, where there was a touch of rust and it was amazing. The stuff is called Nevr Dull. It's a small tub, with stuff that looks like fibreglass insulation inside, that's coated in the polish. You rip off a piece, and rub the chrome. Great stuff.

I've done the belt change twice, and never touched any of the seals. I figure, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, in that case. I have over 300,000 kms on my truck and I have no leaks. It's usually the camshaft seals, IIRC that people replace when doing a T-belt change.

Bingo! The 3.5 will accelerate WAY faster than the 3.3 Even if we're talking automatic vs manual.

ON a 2002? Do you not have the 3.5 L engine? I'm not sure on Aussie spec Pathfinders, but if you do have a 3.5, there is no belt. IT's a chain drive. Also, in the US (and Canada) all the 3.0, and 3.3 L engines don't call for a T-belt change until 100,000 miles. That's from 94-2000

Yes, your rear diff is an H233B

My guess is if you're still hearing the motor run, the regulator is the issue. Take the interior panel off, and see if you can tell what's happening.

Flux muster?!?! That's a word?!?!?! Damn..... I have to catch up on my technobabble.

Jesus.....how many words do you figure they made up? Sounded like a technological Don King.

You'd be one of, if not THE first with a 3.5 powered R50 with headers... There are a few WD21 owners that have them.

Yes, however, the rear header on the Max (not sure which side that would be on a Pathy) would face rearward.....so the header itself would have to be modified. THat, of course, is assuming I'm right that the headers would bolt up. I assume they would as the engine is the same, but I could be wrong.

They will probably bolt up to the block, however, the output pipes will be off, as the 3.5 is mounted horizontally in the Max. The headers, instead of being on the left and right sides on the Pathfinder, are on the front and rear in the Max.

A bad CL can cause your tires to look like this / \ and as well will cause inner tire wear. Also, ball joints, tie rod ends.....all things that will be detected before any decent shop does an alignment.

235,000 kms. However, when it was changed, there was still life left in it. I had a tranny issue (wrong fluid, before I knew better) that caused me to change the clutch as well.

I actually like the look of the newer Nissan Trucks. I know I'm in the minority with that statement, but it's true. The powertrain is nice as well, though, I would opt for the X's 6 speed manual, over any autotragic. What I DO NOT like about the newer Nissans is the smaller, ALUMINUM CASED front differential. Yes, that's right folks, go buy yourself a brand new Xterra, or Frontier w/OFFROAD package, and you get yourself an aluminum cased diff...