Simon

Our trucks generally run cool. My temp guage typically hovers around the same area. Though, your fan clutch could be seized, keeping the fan on all the time. With the truck off, try to spin the fan. If it doesn't spin, the clutch is seized. On the CV boots, you should get them done ASAP. Regardless of whether or not 4x4 is used, dirt/grime will enter the joints, and mess them up. You have to take apart the hubs to get the CV's out. And the inner joint has to be removed from the shaft to put a boot on the outer CV. You can try a split boot, though, I've never had any luck with them, and would recommend taking the time to put on a proper boot. Search around for CV joint removal/replacement....the threads are on here.

Figured as much, Scott. I know you realize how the CL's wear out on these things. Nice work though....I'll remember to try that trick in the future.

You don't need an idler arm if yours is okay. You just drill your stock one out, and your stock pitman arm to accept the large bolts that go through them, and the CL from L&P. It's a far better setup than stock, and as JJ said, well worth the extra $100.

Received

Not really. Get someone to crank it while you look at the rotor. If the rotor doesn't turn, you're in some trouble. Just check for wear on the contact points in the cap, and on the rotor, though, if it isn't spinning, the contacts are the least of your worries.

You can't see the timing belt just by opening the hood. Take the distributor cap off, and see if the rotor turns when the engine is cranked over. If not, your timing belt snapped.

I said before that the R50 had the R200 front diff, and Vengeful incorrectly said I was wrong, and stated that it was the R180.

On a 91, it should be done every 60K miles. I wouldn't leave it much longer than that. Some have lasted 100k, some 200k, but I wouldn't want to be the one that doesn't, y'know?

AND I WAS RIGHT!!!! WOO HOO!!!! -bounce- :cool2:

I hear ya Pavelow. The only time mine looks lifted to me, is when I look at a pic of it stock....and I AM running 32's. I am hoping to have a BL in for the spring, then 33's when my 32's wear out.

Is it affecting anything at this point? Why not just leave it until warmer weather comes??

You'd need a different crank sprocket as well. The only difference is the rounded teeth on the 100K interval belts. I should know. Since I installed Dowser's belt for his 91 on my 95......which worked, though, made a hell of a racket!!! -alcohol-

REALLY?!?! I thought for sure it was the R200....hmm.....well, that changes things.....though.....It's not aluminum cased is it?!?!?

I believe that the BOSE system does have separate amps for each speaker. That could very well be your issue. Try running your speaker wires direct from your new headunit, to your new speakers.....bypassing those boxes....and see if that helps.

They've been hit or miss for years. Some people have had great luck, others, not so much....unfortunately, they're our main source for aftermarket parts. Sorry to hear about your issues, though.

Seafoam is not a spray cleaner. You dump it in your oil, and it cleans out your engine. I've never tried it, personally, though, I've heard some very good reviews on it, from people lacking power, and experiencing general sluggishness with their trucks.

Then how do you know the engine is shot? Maybe it's just the starter?

yeah....that doesn't sound good.......It shouldn't be THAT hard to install....

A few feet?!?!? Sounds impossible. I wonder if maybe those headers are not the right ones for your truck.......Possibly for a Maxima?

OBDII motors in 94 and 95 Pathy's?!?!? Mine's a 95 and it's an OBDI I thought nissan went to OBDII in 96...

Mine has done that, though, mildly for years. Just a little sputter after initial fire-up, then she's fine. I have 300,000kms on mine. I just call it a quirk, and don't mess with it.

True....I guess I wasn't explicit enough........ It was more as it was reaching operating temp. It would start and run fine at first, and as it warmed up, it would sputter/misfire/bog down......then once warmed up, it'd be fine.

I've done the T-belt twice on my 95. It's not that hard. Worst part, in my opinion, is getting the harmonic balancer off. That's about the only specialized tool anyone needs. Though, and air ratchet is nice! Oh.....and don't have a T-belt from a 91 laying around, or you may have to do a T-belt change twice in one day....on the same truck....don't ask me how I know!!! -alcohol-

I think there's more to the 300zx swap than just throwing it in. Easiest way is to just get another Pathy engine, and toss it in. As previously mentioned....do all the maintenance stuff while it's out of the engine bay though.

Glad you found it. It's a relatively easy fix. Rewire......weatherproof, then silicone over top to keep them dry, and deter whatever the hell ate through it, from doing it again.