Simon

Best bet, either pull it out and look for a model number, or head to your local auto parts store, and check their records or have an employee check their computer.

A buzzing sound? Sort of like a bark? If so, could be your throwout bearing is going. Does it do it only when you have the clutch depressed?

88, the CL doesn't interchange from 87-95. There are small taper, and large taper CL's. I do not know, however, if the taper changes on the pitman arm, and idler arm side, but it definitely does on the tie rod end side.

Okay...first off.... Distributor cap.....use vice grips......but first, soak them in penetrating oil for a day... Broken wires.... Use long needle nose pliers to pull the pieces of wire off the plugs Seized plugs... not sure.... be 100% sure you're using the EXACT right size socket. I believe for our applications, it's the 5/16" #6 plug..... look for the toolkit under the rear seats. There's sparkplug tools in there that make the #6 real easy to remove.

The only issue you'll have moving to "big taper" stuff is that your outer TRE's will be small taper still, as you probably aren't changing the knuckles. As far as I can tell, the steering boxes should be the same, and even the taper sizes shouldn't matter, as I believe the way the pitman arm mounts on an early, or later WD21 is the same.

I had my stock UCA's off at one point, and didn't have to loosen tension on the T-bars at all. Just pop out the upper ball joint, remove the shock, and unbolt the spindle from the frame.

When you wired up the harness, I assume you bought a harness to match your truck, then wired the one that came with your new deck to that, correct? If so, did you wire up the leads for the speakers? Also, check your fuses, I know mine won't work if the "Audio Amp" or "Radio" fuses are blown, though, my truck is a 95 Pathy.

Roughcountry (Superlift) UCA's from Pezzy!

Where are you located? In the Toronto area I've seen the odd ad for fairly cheap Pathy's for sale that were originally from BC, and Alberta where they don't use salt....and had no rust. Might be worth looking into.

Inside of the tires typically means the toe in, or camber is wrong. A lot of times, that can be because of a bad centerlink, tie rods or ball joints. Jack her up, and start twisting/moving parts to see where there's play.

If it was done at a Nissan Dealership, and you have some idea which one, you can check with them. Otherwise, they'd have no way of knowing. If you don't know when it was done, do it ASAP..... if it breaks (it's a belt BTW) you WILL bend valves, and require an engine rebuild.

Yeah, it robs horsepower, and the truck takes too long to get up to operating temperature, which, in colder climates, moreso, is bad.

Unless you're running aftermarket control arms, running the stock components "centered" like you are, JdPathy, you're not actually running lifted. That's the stock ride height. If you're running a lift, you'll be much closer to the upper bump stop, than the lower. It's just the nature of our beasts.

Also, plain rubbing alchohol seems to work just fine for cleaning MAF's.

I don't believe so. I think the only rubber part is from the knuckle, to the caliper.

Was probably just the hood. See with the hood latched shut if the problem continues. My bet is that it won't.

that won't cause the ABS light to come on, unless it's gotten so low that air has gotten into the ABS actuator..... It's possible you've got a bad leak somewhere, allowing air into the ABS actuator. I had that once when I replaced a rear caliper......had to continuously bleed the brakes to finally get the lights out.

The tire makes all the difference here gentlemen. I have commercial MT's on my 95 pathy, with a load rating of around 3400lbs PER TIRE. I've aired down to 20psi with NO bulge in the sidewall. I have had them as low as 10psi, with only a small sidewall budge, and had no issues. If you've got a soft sidewall tire, you can't air down as far, conversely, a stiff tire, you can air down a little further, with no adverse affects....at least, that's how it seems to me. Any thoughts?

Okay, so you checked the fuel situation right? Said that you felt pulsation in the line with the key in the "on" position...... Seems like for some reason the injectors aren't firing. Could possibly be the crank angle sensor as 88 suggested. Do you know anyone with a 1990-1995 Pathfinder you can borrow a distributor from? A quick swap could tell you all you need to know.

Which spark plug wire did you take off? The one from the coil, or one of the ones from the sparkplugs? If it was from one of the sparkplugs, Your timing belt is fine....

In North America, it's the VG30e from 1990-1995 for all Pathfinders. That engine will work fine, follow K9Sar's steps though, as those tasks are much easier to take care of with the engine out.

There are quite a few with that affliction, mine included. They can be fixed though, search around. I did mine with a couple of pieces of steel plate. There's been quite a few people who have welded, or had their frames welded up professionally.

While I agree to an extent, I've yet to see the effects of the K&N in my truck. I've had it in for over 200,000kms, and my truck still runs like a top. I've got nearly 300,000 on it now, with no issues.

PM Sent. Martin...BACK OFF!!!

May be interested...... I like the little 520's. How much you looking to get, and where are you located?