Simon

Agreed.....though.....killing your engine by not filtering the air properly, isn't one of those positive things you're talking about.

What'd you do with the other CB?

I've had my truck aligned like this for quite a while and it's fine. I drive mine to work every day as well. Seems to me, with the age of our trucks, a "proper" alignment will only stay as such for a very short period of time. I, however, do have a camber issue that I'm going to have to explore in the near future.

Oil the filter. A K&N filter won't do anything for sh!t if it isn't oiled. That's why they say they filter better with a little dirt trapped in the oil. Minute particles WILL end up in your engine, and WILL start wearing into the cylinder walls. Don't kill your engine for 2 more HP...doesn't make any sense. I thought only Max was dumb enough to run sans filter, which is basically what you'd be doing without oiling the K&N!!

Any type really. 88 is using coolers from a Ford Explorer. The plate types are supposed to be a little better when they're covered in mud, as opposed to the open fin-and-tube type. Plus they're more durable, if something ever hit it. But they also cost more.

If the ball joints are worn, they can cause that type of vibration. Though, typically, if the lowers are worn, you'll get more of a slow sway, and the truck won't track straight. But, as Red said, get the wheels balanced properly, as that could quite easily be your issue. Typically, it's the most common cause.

I agree, however, it's about learning. So they can feel it, so that he can take off from a start, on a hill, without rolling back. Under normal every day driving conditions, I agree with you completely.

In the owners manual for my 95, it shows to shift around 3k RPMs. Teach your son to keep the truck stable on hills when stopped using the clutch, and also, I've found, using ONLY the clutch to try to start off in 1st, in a parking lot for a while, was greatly beneficial to me in learning the feel of it. Just get your son to SLOWLY let out the clutch a few times with the truck in first gear, without touching the gas, so he can feel when the clutch engages. That's the biggest issue, as shifting between gears when moving is the easy part.

There isn't too much you can do, as it's a bad spot for them to be mounted. Some people have hacked out the AC compressor, and relocated the alty there....which I plan to do, as my AC is shot anyways. Alternatively, the only thing I've heard of is spraying all inside the alternator with Silicone lubricant, as it may help displace SOME of the moisture from creek/river crossings, though, if it's caked in mud, there isn't much that anything can do to save it.

Make sure the lock knob is pulled all the way up. I had a problem with one of mine recently, where the lock had jammed in the middle, neither locked, nor unlocked, and using the power lock switch to unlock wouldn't budge it. I had to manually pull the knob, and all was fine. Worth a shot.

Incorrect sir. The VG33, and VG30, which it's based upon, ARE interference engines. Break the timing belt, and 99.9% of the time you bend or break valves. Timing belt on our vehicles is a MUST. The only Pathfinder without that issue (North American, anyways) is the ones with the VQ35, as they use a chain instead of a belt.

115,000 miles, and it should have the tranny fluid flushed and filled. Check it to see if there's any signs of it being brown, or smelling burnt. It should be a nice red colour. Also, the O2 sensors in those things are NOTORIOUS for going out. Pezzy (also a 99.5 owner) just replaced her 4th. You'll want to get those fixed, as they're probably killing your gas mileage, not to mention, they cause the truck to run a little strange at times. The 4Runner, is no more reliable than a Pathfinder.....they're both good for a lot of miles, properly maintained. Put a few dollars into your truck, and she'll keep you happy for a long time. Make sure that timing belt gets done if you're not sure when/if it's been done. It's a pricey job if you take it somewhere to get done, but cheaper than an engine.

The reason you bend the stock tie rods so easily with the stock steering is because of the twisting allowed by the stock centerlink. The L&P solution eliminates that, and makes the stock tie rods less of an issue. Yes, it is still POSSIBLE to bend them, though much less likely. My guess is if you'd bend one with a stock tie rod, you'd bend the stock outer with the Calmini kit as well.

Shouldn't need the gas pedal to get it started. Wonder if maybe the fuel pump is going. Try turning the key to "on" but not cranking it for about 10 seconds, then try to crank it, and see if it starts quicker. Could be that the fuel system isn't staying pressurized. The squealing on turning sounds like maybe your PS pump may be seizing. If the belts were replaced recently, that'd be my guess.

Calmini constantly has quality issues. Their upper control arms squeek like no tomorrow, and I've heard of issues with their SAS kits. To be honest, I don't know of many people running the Calmini steering kit. No one I've heard of (and there's a lot more people running them) has ever killed an L&P centerlink. That goes for Xterra's and Frontiers, as well as Pathfinders. The design uses more stock components, which makes parts replacement easier, and more cost effective down the road (tie rod ends) and it doesn't stray THAT far from Nissan's original design.

Honestly, don't waste your money on the Calmini steering setup. Go with L&P. It's a fraction of the cost, and is built to LAST. You can even go with just L&P's centerlink, and it'll end up performing just as well as the calmini setup.

That's all there was on mine when I took it out. Just foam insulating tape, looked like it was on there from the factory.

Pezzy had a air in the lines causing her rear brakes to not engage. Her's just needed to be bled. Before going and ripping out the MC....I'd suggest flushing the brake system, and filling with new fluid. Basically, take out all you can from the reservoir with a turkey baster or something, then start bleeding, back to front, until all you see if fresh fluid coming through the lines. It could just be that some moisture, or something has contaminated the lines, and is burning off as you drive......causing the lack of pedal pressure. IT's worth a shot.

Not typical, but I snapped a couple a while back. Overtorqued the lugs. First time using a cross-type lug wrench on them. Live and learn. I always use a torque wrench now while tightening my lugs.

Just to add....I tried fitting the 1158 kit to Pezzy's R50, without luck. The part of the kit that fits where the filter should go (filter adapter) does not fit. It is not because of thread size, or seal diameter, but because the space between the alternator bracket and oil pan isn't big enough to allow the larger in diameter filter adapter to fit where the tiny stock filter does. Unfortunately, back to the drawing board.

Yes....another thing, probably obvious, is to NOT check the oil when the engine is running. You can have almost no oil in the engine, and it will still show high on the dipstick if you do.

Bought mine in Feb 2002.

Heh.....CaR50. It's still funny to me!!

Well said Martin!

Good point.