Simon

These sound AWESOME!!! I wonder if I can get them at the same place I buy my halogen blinker fluid?!?!?

You'd probably have to do some pretty serious fabrication/modification to the mounts to get the seats to fit properly, as the 96 model was a major redesign.

31's will fit without rubbing.....but if your current tires are okay, you'd be better served by doing the Body lift, then getting a set of 32's or, if you do a suspension lift at the same time, you can run 33's.

Heh...I PURPOSELY use the high pressure hoses at the spray wash, or my own pressure washer to hose out any built up crap in my rad......never had an issue. I also use the pressure washer to rinse the engine...........just try to avoid spraying the distributor cap too much......never been an issue.

Yeah, I believe it's 72-79 Ford F100 front coils that work to lift the rear of our trucks as well. Luker has them installed, and can probably shed more light.

I don't believe the R50's have Centerlinks. Its a totally different steering system. AFAIK

If you're running stock sized tires, and you rarely offroad, you could probably get away with a stock CL. I've had one in for about 4 years, and it was fine until just recently, after my first wheeling excursion with my larger tires. It's got a little bit of play in it now (nothing excessive) and will need to be replaced, probably after a couple more runs.

From underneath the truck.

Well done!!!

Fix it.......you'll get sweet f*ck all for it if you scrap it. There should be lots of old Pathys available with blown trannies to pick motors out of.

Oh man.......The one saving grace here, if I understand the story correctly, is that it didn't happen when she was running, so if you've only tried to start it a few times without the belt in place, the valves/pistons may be okay.......you may be one of the lucky one's Lowrider....... Still, sorry to hear that.

As long as you align the marks on the camshaft sprockets to the marks on the inner timing cover, and the belt marks to that, you'll be fine to just align the other mark on the crankshaft sprocket, to the mark on the belt. Hope that makes sense.

Hmm.....could be a problem with the coil....or could be an ECU problem. When you turn the key to the "On" position, do you hear the fuel pump?

Woah....reading quickly, it looked like you were talking to yourself Tinker!!

I believe so.......here's a testing procedure for the Power Transistor. Mine just got disconnected.......I can't remember why I had pulled the plug from it, but I did....and forgot to re-plug it in.

No worries!! Hope I'm right....... You definitely don't owe me a cold one for all the advice I gave you earlier in the thread that was wrong!! Anyways, keep us posted, and if that isn't it, we'll move on to the next possibility.

I'd say let off the tension on the throttle cables and see if the gas smell goes away...... The other option is a tiny little fuel hose that runs under the intake manifold......Check the clamps on either end of it.....could be a little loose.

There's a little grey box in behind the coil.....In the FSM it's called a Power Transistor...I had a bad connection to it, and mine wouldn't start.....check that one......it gave me symptoms similar to a dead coil.

I agree with that 88, but lets not forget we're talking about (in the WD21 crowd) vehicles that are AT LEAST 11 years old. Things break. I'd venture to say that breakage at that age is less due to flex and more due to the breakdown of the rubber due to age.

Earth, I've got to question the need for "stronger" engine mounts..... You say you've got a ratchet strap on one for months. Surely even a stock engine mount is exponentially stronger than a ratchet strap. I dunno....seems to me that replacing with a stock part would probably outlast the life of the truck.

Yeah, not a difficult fix, at least. Which reminds me, I've been meaning to get some new bushings for the compression rods......I should check into mine to see what shape they're in.

Geez Luke....good thing you got her apart and found that sh!t now.....a couple more wheeling trips and that link would have snapped I think. :eek:

Yep....just make sure it's warmed up to proper operating temp before you check the timing. I did my timing cold once, and it ran like a$$....then rechecked with it warm the next day, and the timing was way off. Once I set it correctly while warm, it's run great.

88....you're wrong....there IS a light for the tire carrier. There's a rubber bumper that hits the body below the hatch that actuates the switch to turn off the light for the tire carrier. To fix, remove the twine, use only the steel bar for your latch. Loosen the jam nut on the rubber bumper, and unscrew the rubber bumper so that it sticks out a little further, that way your tire carrier will close tightly even without the plastic sleeve on the latch. The light will also turn off. I had the same problem a while back, and the above fixed it.

Yep....throwout bearing most likely. If she's already starting to slip on you, chances are you're going to be due pretty soon.