Simon

HA HA HA.... WTF does he need sliders and a snorkel for?!?!

It's mounted to the tranny, right near the transfer case....way up high if I remember correctly. Check the connections, though, as I had a problem with mine a while back, and I just disconnected, sprayed with electrical cleaner, and reconnected. All was well.

You can replace the bushings, as some have done, but it's VERY difficult if I remember correctly. You will need to burn out the old bushings, and press in the new ones......Not an easy job. BUt if you can get the old one's out without ruining the links, and bring them somewhere to have the new bushings pressed in, you could save quite a few of those lowly CDN dollars we cherish so much.

Well, sh!t. Learn something new every day. I've never really had an issue using new oil, but I guess it can happen. Hopefully by the next oil change, I remember this advice.

ACTUALLY.... Technically I do......and a girlfriend. Well, I know my wife wouldn't have been game for this.......

Luckily I don't have a wife!

I just use a strap wrench when mine gets tight. It's only happened 2 or 3 times where I've had to use it. Just need to break it loose. It was probably installed without oil on the gasket. mzxtreme; why do you you say to use USED oil specifically? I always use new oil for this, and always have.....what's the benefit of using old oil?

Good point Pezzy.

Still, get an aftermarket cooler. For the money vs a tranny rebuild, it's WELL worth it. Yes, the TPS could affect shifting. As could the torque converter locking/unlocking when it shouldn't. Your avatar is a disgrace. Make it go away.... (in case you couldn't pick up on it, I'm a Leafs fan)

First thing to do is install an aftermarket tranny cooler and bypass the stock cooler in the rad. Then drain and re-fill your tranny fluid, and see if that helps it. If not, and you need a rebuild, the aftermarket cooler is still desired, as it'll prolong the life of the tranny, as these things kill trannies due to the stock cooler clogging, causing them to overheat. Oh, and you'd get a lot more help if you didn't have that ugly avatar

It is an INTERFERENCE engine. Chances are you've got some bent valves. If you don't trust them, have them show you the belt, and have a look under the upper timing cover. It'll tell you all you need to know.

I had the same code a while ago. Ran some GOOD injector cleaner (Lucas Fuel Treatment) and it went away. Nevermind the STP, or Pennzoil crap....they don't do a damn thing.

31" is the largest tire that will fit on a stock suspension. In the future, searching using the advanced options helps a lot. The basic search function on this board is terrible

Be sure to bypass the stock cooler in the rad when you add your new cooler. If you don't, you're not fixing the issue, as the stock cooler is what clogs up, causing tranny failure.

I just checked the FSM and it says 9 quarts, or 8.5 litres. You shouldn't need THAT much, as you probably won't be able to drain all the old fluid out of the tranny. Filling throught the dip stick tube is fine. Just pour in a quart, cycle through the gears, and keep an eye on the fluid level. You can also try to figure out how much drains out, and throw in that much to start with.....then add as necessary.

I know that....my comment was badly written. I meant it more in terms of saying that the panhard rod will prevent the death wobble he was talking about.

Eli, I've had both my swaybars off for 2 years, and have had no trouble. The Pathy has a 5-link rear suspension setup that really has no need for a swaybar. The panhard rod acts as just that. Removing the panhard rod, and making it a 4-link suspension, however, would be ugly.

Yep, if it won't charge past 69% it's shot. Your starter is most likely just fine.

Yep....that's about it. Just unplug the harness, and unscrew. If I remember correctly, it's a b!tch to get at though, as it's mounted high on the tranny.

Wow MZ....that's the most politely I've ever seen you tell someone to search..... Oh, and 94PathySAS, the answer is a 31" tire on a stock WD21 Pathfinder

Oh, come on MZ......a SBC is SURELY an upgrade over any Heep engine!!!! But seriously, cdhicks........why go through all the trouble? The VG30 is a great engine, not powerful, but very durable.

Mr. P, I know your pain. I searched around for my issue for a month a while back....no reverse lights, and the bulbs were fine. Mine ended up being a dirty connection to the reverse switch on the tranny. Mine's a 5 speed. I unhooked the harness, cleaned it up, sprayed some WD40 in there, and it's been good for over 6 months now. You can just try to disconnect all the harnesses there, and clean them up......it won't hurt anything to do the ones for the transfer case/4wd light as well.... I'll see if I can find it in the FSM, and I'll post the page, if I do.

That's normal Jay, if you tromp the gas, it automatically switches to power mode, If I remember correctly. Whether you can feel the heat of the tranny or not, get an aftermarket cooler on there STAT! It's about the only thing that gives you some insurance against costly tranny failure. Also, it may not be the tranny heat you're feeling....I know a lot of people mistake it for that, but the Y-pipe for the exhaust is right under your feet, and it could be leaking.....causing the heat. Have a look at your exhaust.

I think that depends, mws. I have stock length shocks in the rear (emergency purchase on a Sunday, because one of my old one's broke) and 3" lift, with no sway bars. I have ruined my shocks due to flexing....the seal (can't remember the name) blew because I overextended the shock. Basically, Jay, if you're gonna lift for looks, stock length is fine, but if you're going to be flexing offroad with a lifted truck....get the longer shocks. Oh, and the Trailmaster 4" should be okay.......that should just give you more travel.....just check the compressed length against a stock shock, to make sure it's not too much longer.

Plus, it would just piss you off again that Pezzy's got the bumper you wanted.....better you posted that shot....