McClurgM

That thing would look sweet with a D44 SAS ( including a little suspension modifications... ), All-Pro Flat Bed, and some 35 or 37 inch mud terrains. Other than that its not a real Nissan Hardbody

Nissan did mabe both the H233A and B with different bolt numbers The 10 bolt is the B the 9 bolt is the A. The H233A as actual bolts. THe H233B housing has studs. Internals are slightly different. The pinion is different but the rest is the same. I have a H233A 3rd with 4.88s in a H233B housing it works just fine.

88 is correct. Gear Oil is fine in the T-case. I have redline in everything...tcase, trans, diffs.. and i see a small mpg increase with no harshness in shifting into 4 wheel.

CSU - CurleyMan and I have been using Redline and love it. I have it in the Trans, T-case, and both diffs. There is a dealer near Drake and Taft. Go west on drake, past taft....pass a small neighborhood on your left, turn left at the Complete Automotive Repair.....you cant miss it....he has a bunch of RV stored right off the steet...... Tell him that you drive a nissan and that I told you to come in......sometimes he gives out a discount

My old Mitsubishi burned a quart of oil every 3000 miles.....mitsu dealer, and mitsu customer care, (the 1800 number for mitsu corp) said that it is normal for a motor to consume oil..... I had only 112K on it and they didnt seem to think anything about it. I switched my Pathfinder over to Full Synthetic @ 245K. (diffs, t-case, tranny and motor) I now have two oil changes and 257K on her now with no oil leaks or consumption. i really like it. On a side note, the cost is about the same....Advance autoparts is running a buy one get one sale on valvoline syn... but i have seen a 2 - 3 mpg change, avg 15 before got 17-18 after might be pump/user error... I even got 12 - 13 mpg towing a 2000 lb trailer from denver to Philly.

both the Procomp and the Rancho are made by monroe. why not save the $$ and just buy some regular monroe shocks. I agree with the Bilstein being a better shock, but more $$. I have run both pro comp and rancho and dont really see a difference. if i was going to replace mine on a stock hight Pathfinder, i would buy the Bilstein.

I have both the 3.0L V6 and the 2.4L I4. The I4 has required less maintenance than the V6 but creates much less power. (The maintenance cost of the V6 is still minimal) Gearing is a must if you want to turn 33s on a Z24. As said earlier, the WD platform is better for serious off-roading as it is a body on frame construction, not a unibody. Either Pathfinder (WD21 or R50) are very capable in stock or mildly built forms. adequate for most camping trips.... 6 inches of lift can only be obtained by using both a suspension lift and a body lift. (3+3) Unless you want to do a solid axle swap for the front end……$$$ If you plan to run 35†plus tires the 2 door is desirable due to the lack of the rear door getting in the way of cutting fenders… (look into a solid axle swap if you want to run larger than 35â€) If I recall correctly the V6 was changed from TBI into MPI in 1991, so later model WD21s are preferred. Many of the early 90 pathys came with a LSD rear that can be packed tighter to improve traction, as lockers are limited for the Nissan rear. 4cyl came with a C200 rear = only ARB locker 4cly came with R180 front = no LSD, no locker V6 came with H233 rear = LSD, Lockright, ARB. V6 came with R200 front = LSD, ARB locker

I will be fixing it this weekend. nothing too major thanks for the advice guys!!

I guess i expected more of a "dude, that sucks, I'd be glad to help you fix it" but i didnt get that. its not the $$ its the "sorry i broke your @!*%" and the fact that someone would want to help fix it.

Hello All - Please let me know what you think of the following issue. Lets say that you go wheeling with a few friends. One of your friends attempts a hill climb and comes sliding back down the hill as it is pretty icy. He slides about 10 ft down the hill, around a curve in the trail and another 15 - 20 feet right into your rig. (about 45-50 ft total) which is waiting in line on the trial to go up the same hill. His tire rack smashes your hood, grille and drivers side headlight. Radiator supports need to be bent back, hood replaced, and headlight replaced. Who pays to fix the damage?? Does he pay because he slid into you? Do you pay because it was an accident? Furthermore, if the only parts needed can be sourced at a JY for a reduced cost, does that make a difference? Please post your thoughts! thanks! Matthew

I've got one. 87 2door Z24i. 235K + on the motor. only paid $500 for it almost two years ago.

The older H233A uses 10mm bolts while the H233B uses 12mm. Each bolt/stud hole in the H233A must be enlarged to fit onto the H233B housing. (Plus there are more bolts holding the B 3rd to the housing than the A third.) Check to see if the front diff will fit. Nissan used two styles of fronts. The older wd21 used a low pinon and the R50 used a high pinion. the rear will fit, with minimal modifications if any.

The only way to really know the gears w/o the tag in the engine bay is to open it up and count the ring gear teeth and divide by the pinion teeth. (ie... 37 ring /8 pinion is 4.625) I believe that the Xterra 4.9s are a direct swap. It should be a H233 rear and R200A front. I know that the H233 3rd from an 4.9 xterra will fit. The later "off road" models use a D44 in the rear. Also keep in mind if it is a H233A LSD housing the 3rd will need a few holes drilled, and other made larger to fit on the later model H233B housing. Just a little heads-up.

Hello - I will be in the Portland area (30 min north) over x-mas week. Wondering if anybody has planned any adventures during the later half of the week. Nothing extreme, just a good time wheelin in some different terrain. Please let me know if you want to catch a trail. 92 V6, Calmini lift, 4.88s and a locker. Thanks! Matthew

I had a bad master cyl that dropped all the fluid one day. I was leaking for a while then it just went. Bought a new (used) master cyl for $20 and replaced it.....