Simon

Not really true. Or, at least, not always. It depends on where you're off. If the cams are aligned, but the crankshaft is off a tooth, it will still run, but lack power.

Ticking constantly, right after a timing belt change.....are you sure it's not pinging? Could you have possibly misaligned the belt, and have it a tooth or two off?

It's possible. Rather than trying to tip the truck to get enough fluid in, just remove the shifter. It's really easy, and you can be sure you'll have 5.1qts in there. That's the way I always filled my MT.

That one came black, and actually was replaced under warranty because the powder coating started to peel. That was the factory black powdercoat.

It has an ECU for the tranny as well, but the AT model's ECU works with the tranny computer as well. So, you can swap an auto ECU to a manual truck, but not the other way around.

That was Brampton North Nissan.

WTF?!?!?!? I replaced the front section of my cable for $50 from a local Nissan dealership here in Toronto.

I can agree with that to some extent. It'd be sweet to have a Patrol front axle under there, and at least, keep it all Nissan. It'd handle differently, and drive differently, but if it was just a wheeling rig, I'd do it for sure, money allowing, of course!

I agree with you, except on the SAS part. If I had the money, and a different vehicle to drive daily, I'd be all over it.

HA...I WIN!!! Just kidding man. Lockers are an option, however, only ARB air lockers. There are no mechanical lockers. A SAS is an option, however, there are no kits, and it hasn't been "figured out" yet. The issue is the rack and pinion steering. IT's not a stopping point, but it's a major hurdle.

Which is not articulation. Articulation is the flex in the suspension.

A fully boxed frame like ours is very strong in original form.

Better be 110% sure that it's fixed right.....and it's not just body pucks. You need the right bolts, and a few relocation brackets for things.

You can't increase articulation on the front end of either vehicle, short of removing the sway bar, and that does very little. And you can put longer shocks in the rear of both, and remove the swaybar to increase travel in the rear. The only thing the R50's can't do is body lift. That doesn't increase articulation at all. It simply gives you the opportunity to run bigger tires.

I agree with that almost 100%. Pezzy's R50 goes everywhere my WD goes......so I don't know about the WD ruling in that case. Granted, I can still go larger, and right now, she can't (commercially) but as we sit, she's just as capable as I am, in her green grocery getter.

You need to have a better ground, and make sure that the areas you're welding are VERY clean. Smaller welders, especially using flux core will not penetrate through rust/grease/grime. Other than that, slow movement, and good technique are what will get you through. I am no professional by any stretch, and still have laid some real sh!tty welds. However, if it happens, I grind them off, and run a new bead.

It's do-able with a 70amp unit....but it's not going to be quick. Slow wire feed, and highest heat setting will get you through the frame repair, but the welder will hit duty cycle quickly, and need to cool down often. For the amount of welding you need to do, it'll take a LONG time.

99% chance it's the hatch. It's a 10 minute fix. The latch on the body for the hatch has to be either loosened off and moved forward, or spaced up (with washers under the plate) and tightened back down. It's pretty common.

Um...no. I've done it twice on my 95's in the last couple of months, and both were done in under a day. There's no fabrication needed. There's a couple of writeups in the tech section that are very thorough. It's not difficult. The worst part of the whole thing is if you have seized bolts. Use some PB blaster every day for a week or so before starting, and you should have no issues.

That's what the sawzall is for!

Good stuff man. Nice to see someone pic this back up. You should add an option for Reflective white, as a lot of people like those ones.

I have no idea on the manual calculation, but personally, I use my GPS to see how fast I'm going, and then do the math based upon what my speedo says. My speedo is about 20% too slow.

^^^ What he said! Like you said, just measure the center bore, and make sure the chevy rims are at least as big. Then you'll be fine.

I had both sways off the old truck for a long time, and got used to it. The new truck still has both on. I'll be removing the rear one for sure, as I noticed I would hang a tire in the air FAR earlier with it on than I would with it off. I think I'll leave the front one on this truck though.

Not to mention, back seats that actually recline. It was a rare feature in that day's SUV's to have rear seats that were comfortable.