Simon

It's probably a voltage issue at the starter. Very recently, this was posted up. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16137&hl= It could very well be the same problem, but try cleaning the terminals at your battery, and ensuring they're tight.

In the picture shown, it's a 2.5-3" suspension lift, with 32" tires. That's it in terms of lifts. I thought I remember you talking about a BL, jj....am I wrong?

I already said that man!!! Jeez. Oh yeah....you should pull your codes too!

Yeah...SEARCH TOO!!!

MAF? Check the connection, and maybe give it a cleaning.

That's the safest way to do it Xmas. You'll never hurt the vehicle that way.

I'd say you're on the right track with the clutch safety switch. You can splice those out. Might be worth a shot, to see if you can start the truck with it gone. It could be a part of the wire to the switch that is corroded, not the switch itself. Also, clean the battery terminals well, and ensure they're tight. These things are very sensitive to getting proper voltage to the starter. The speed sensor wouldn't cause a no-start.

(no offense yozsi ) Read the How to section in the garage and search around in the 90-95 pathfinder section of the board. We're here for any additional questions you may have.

If it's in really good shape, that's not too bad. You can get used trannies fairly cheap, or get that one rebuilt.

Dude....triple post?!?!? That's a new record!

Yes...yes there is. I have one. The mounts on mine were modified to fit with a 3" body lift, but you get the idea. They're available all over. AC (4x4parts.com) has them at around $739USD last I heard.

Definitely.

The other thing that could have happened is that the brushes got gummed up, and have pulled back from the shaft. That's an easy fix as well, as you just have to clean the sliders for the brushes, lubricate them a bit, and put it back together. It's common on Nissan's that have been taken through deep mud.

There may, or may not be supports in the rear right pillar for the tire carrier to bolt to. I tried to move my tire carrier from my old truck, to my "new" one, and decided it's too much work, as mine does not have the supports inside to bolt it to. I'd have to cut a lot of sheet metal to get supports in there, and I figured it's not worth it, especially given that I have a friend who works in metal fabrication, and has said he'll help me build a rear bumper/tire carrier for my truck.

Let's see some pics of the rust. I did quite a bit of body work on my old one, and while it was far from perfect, no one ever commented on it, which means, they probably didn't notice. If the frame is good, and the drivetrain is good, keep it, and patch it up. If it's manual, there's no point in a cooler. Just change the fluid, with GL-4 ONLY, and make sure you fill to 5L as opposed to the 3.5 that the manual states. I always filled mine via top, after removing the shifter. I found that to be the easiest way to get it filled, since the fill hole won't allow you put 5L in.

No worries. An air chisel will be a little messy. If you have a die grinder, or dremel with a cutting disc, it'll be a lot cleaner.

I had issues on my old truck with the rearmost bolts. I cut a small hole maybe 1.5"x1.5" in the cargo floor right above the bolt. That gave me access to the captive (welded to the subfloor) nut. From there, with some PB blaster, and a decent amount of wrenching, I was able to get the bolts undone. One of my bolts came out, with the nut still welded, the other, I had to hold with vice grips, as I spun the bolt out, as the spot welds snapped.

Could just be residual pressure in the tank causing a few little noises. To test, next time you shut her down, undo the gas cap to release the pressure, then tighten it back up. If it still makes noises, it could be something wrong, though, the fuel pump itself shouldn't make noise, even if it were to go.

Everything in Canada is more expensive. Western Canada (BC) is probably the worst, though, Ontario is pretty bad as well.

Yes....they are the ones that come in the full kit for the hardbody. Ask for the Upper Control arms for a hardbody, with bushings. The stock ones will last forever, that isn't the issue. What happens is, as you lift, your ball joints end up at extreme angles with the stock arms, and chances are, you'll blow through upper ball joints quickly. Also, it'll be very tough (could be impossible) to get aligned with 3" of front end lift, and stock arms.

Maybe he'd rather talk about sausage?

Don't waste your money on Calmini UCA's. Order from RoughCountry. You'll have to call for the arms, as they're specified for the hardbody, but work fine on our trucks. (same front end design) They're a lot cheaper, and I've heard of 0 problems with them. Calmini can't compare with that. They're rebranded Superlift arms, only, they're cheaper from RoughCountry. Last I heard, around $160 USD with bushings.

You're looking for the front coils from a 93-97 Jeep Grand cherokee. preferrably the .58 (or .59) coil diameter, as that'll give you the most lift. There were different coils ranging from .52-.58 (or .59, not sure on that measurement).

Guys, you forget thats in Canadian funny money. Balancing around here is at minimum, $10 per tire. A plug is $15-20. Rotation, however, should be included, as they have to take all the wheels off to balance them.