Simon

Dealer. Not sure on how much. Can't remember how many. Others will chime in on that. No, I don't have any.

From what I hear, Warn is the best. I run them, and love them. Just make sure they're sealed well after any service you do on the hubs, wheel bearings or brakes.

28 If you're ordering Warn Premium Manual hubs, the part number is 29091.

I think the gearing in the T-cases is the same. It's the diffs that have the different gearing, as far as I know.

No no... The cover plate on the distributor, BELOW the cap and rotor. If there's metal shavings in there, you replace the distributor.

Well, that depends on what you want it to look like. Personally, I've done some bodywork on my truck, and while I notice it's not flawless, I've never really had anyone else comment on it. Which means it's probably good enough. That's not a bush guard on my truck. It's an ARB bumper. They're available all over, from many different 4x4 shops. They're not cheap, however. ~$750 USD. It's a heavy chunk of steel, designed to house a winch, which I don't, yet, own.

1. You're welcome 2. Could be anything. Your brakes will function just fine with the ABS indicator on, however, without ABS. Our trucks only have rear ABS anyways, and I've never "felt" mine engage. Pezzy's R50, mind you, has full, 4 wheel ABS, and when it engages, you KNOW it. 3. The studs can be easy to replace. A bit of a tight spot, and time consuming, but not "difficult". However, if it's broken inside the block, then not so much, as they'd typically have to be drilled out. You don't use bolts, typically. What most people have done is replaced them with the upgraded 300zx studs.

ABS, no. There's a malfunction in the ABS system The Ticking you're hearing is the exhaust manifolds. Probably a couple of broken studs, possibly just loose. Search around, it's a VERY common issue.

1 -2 Yes The others, I'm not sure, though, the plastic piece should fit.

Right, so a narrower tire you can run..... But you trimmed quite a bit too, right Thomas?

Definitely. You can run them...but they'll rub without trimming. A lot of it depends on the width of the tire, and the backspacing of the rim.

A relay perhaps? There's an electrical box housing relays/fuses under the hood. Pop the top and give that a listen next time.

Could be a bad WP, bad T-stat, or clogged rad. Take the rad cap off, and see if you have good coolant flow once the temp moves up a bit. I should be flowing well for sure once your temperature gauge hits half.

Naw....POR-15 is probably the best stuff. Having used it before, I'm sure you know that if you do the prep work right, it's pretty indestructible. That wand sounds like an awesome idea...

They're quite capable in stock form. If you're not going to run bigger tires, don't bother with any lifts. 3" will allow you to run a 1" bigger tire. So, with a BL, you can run 32's. With a 3" suspension lift, and a 3" body lift, you can run 33" tires. You're not going to realistically run anything bigger without swapping out the IFS for a solid axle.

POR-15 is always a good choice. The main thing is to keep the insides of the rails clean. Once you've POR'd the frame, just get it undercoated every year or so, and make sure they spray inside the frame rails.

They do have decent offroad capabilities. Again, my concern is reliability over anything else, in terms of a Jeep.

I only put 2 small washers per side. Make sure you force it forward towards the front of the truck as much as possible while bolting it down.

All it does is ensures you won't get ANY play in the CV, allowing mud/water in the inner bearing seal. It's important, but as 88 said, I've reused the same snap rings any time I've had these things apart, and have had no issues.

Yep....ditto to K9sar, and Mr. P. Same thing for me...washers, and slid the little loop forward, tightened her down. No issues since.

98 Pathfinder, Denis..... No torsion bars in the front....struts. You can fit them, but I've heard of some folks needing aftermarket rims, or narrower 31" tires to clear the strut tower.

They're a well appointed truck. However, not always the most reliable. Some run forever, some barely ever run. It's basically luck of the draw with any Chrysler product. Hope you got a good one.

From what I hear, you need to grind down the bottoms of the pins so that they have no more mushroom left, tap them out, install new bushings, re-install pins. THen try to mushroom the bottoms again. Might be beneficial to get new pins.

96-99 used a different rotor than the 99.5+ That's for sure. If you've got rotors for a 99.5, you've got the wrong ones.