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98SE

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    In the process of buying one.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
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  • Year
    1987

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  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ USA

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  1. I changed the fluid a little while ago and added lucas trans fix but it didn't help the problem at all. It did however make the shifting a little smoother.
  2. I've driven it as far as 87 miles when it was 36 degrees and the tranny never locked up.
  3. Ok so here it goes. I have an 88 SE-V6 4x4 with the 4 speed auto. For the past 2 months, the transmission seems to have trouble locking up in 4th. It shifts between 1st and 2nd very smoothly, third can be slow but I hear that is common on these transmissions. Shifting into 4th is also very smooth. But when I am on the freeway going 70 mph, it doesn't seem to lock up, it spins about 3100 rpm, if I give it gas so I can speed up it revs anywhere between 3000 and 4000 rpm but doesn't gain any speed. If I give it even more gas, it then will immediately downshift to 3rd and accelerate just fine. Keep in mind there is no hesitation when it downshifts. I'm having touble trying to figure out what the problem is since it only does this half the time. The other half of the time it does lock up and it will spin about 2650 rpms at 70 mph. It only has this problem when in 4th gear and it applies to any speed. Typically I've noticed that it doesn't lock up when the temp is below 50 outside or if there is even the slightest amount of wind. It it is above 50 degrees, it usually locks up. Do the torque converters in these lock up? I'm not sure if my torque converter is failing or my 4th gear is slipping. Also, I still have reverse and it works just fine. I know some of you are gonna ask if I have bypassed the cooler yet, and the answer is no I haven't done that yet. I did flush the fluid recently to see if that would help this problem (and it didn't) but I did not drop the pan and change the filter. I'll probably wait till next month or so before I add the cooler and change the filter since I hardly drive this thing. When I changed the fluid, the stock cooler was still flowing plenty but I know it is still crap and I need to bypass it since I do get heat coming from the center console. So down to the point, should I try changing the filter? Or is my tranny just going out? If so I need to sell this thing before it does.
  4. FIXED! I got a new sensor from Napa for $104. Runs better than ever. It has always run out of steam at higher rpm's but now it runs great. The old sensor had a heavily corroded sensor so that was probably the culprit. BTW, my sensor is in the distributor, the newer vg33's have a another sensor located underneath the vehicle in addition to the one in the dizzy. Thanks for the help.
  5. I played with the connector for a bit, it even looks brand new on the inside. Next step? lol Maybe my wiring harness is shot? I don't have a multimeter.
  6. Update! Okay so I took off the timing belt cover and the belt is in the correct position. Meanwhile I had the battery disconnected and this erased the codes. I put everything back together and started her up. Barely started and runs horribly, shaking pretty bad. Then I turned the engine off and checked the codes again. Got code 55-No Malfunction. So I disconnected the wiring going to the crank angle sensor on the distributor. Tried to start it, and nothing just as expected. Next I reconnected it and now it still doesn't start! Not even a hickup. However I am now throwing code 11-Crank Angle Sensor. Should I just replace this? The cheapest one I could find was from Napa for $104. On another note, code 13 is gone. (coolant temp sensor). Any help is much appreciated.
  7. Hmmmm...........No, I didn't disconnect the battery before I did the t-belt. As for the dizzy, I only took the cap off to see when the rotor was at spark plug number 1. I am pretty sure the belt didn't slip a tooth, after all it will run dead smooth one minute then have a slight misfire the next. And when it is running smooth, it is smoother and quieter than before I did the t-belt. It has enough coolant and does not overheat. The level in the resorvoir is exaclty at max. Should I disconnect the battery for a half hour or so to erase the codes? Where is the coolant sensor and CPS located, maybe I bumped a connection loose, I would like to be able to check.
  8. I changed my timing belt last weekend (1988 SE-V-6 auto 4wd), all went well and the truck was running fine. I checked the ecu codes a week ago just for the heck of it and it came up with 55-no malfunction. Yesterday I drove to wal-mart 4 miles and it away and it wouldn't start when I came out. It would crank over and I could smell gas. I knew it wasn't getting a spark. Like an idiot, I left my cell phone at home in my motorcycle jacket so I had to walk the 4 miles home lol. Grabbed the car and picked up a new distributor cap at Checkers (it needed replaced anyways.) I put it on the truck, cranked it over a few more times and it finally sputtered to life. It misfired all the way home, so I checked the codes. It came up with two. 13-crankshaft position sensor, and 11-engine coolant temperature sensor. The truck still starts but not easily and it misfires, but only half the time. Soooooooo.........Is the crankshaft sensor built into the distributor? I've seen it sold separately. And where is the coolant temperature sensor? Should I replace it? The temperature gauge works just fine. Any help would be appreciated. The pathy will be my main mode of transportation for the next 6 weeks. It couldn't have broken at a worse time.
  9. Williams? That place is long gone. I'm at Luke AFB now and it is still alive and kicking.
  10. Have fun driving out here from Spokane.
  11. How much time and money? lol. Just ask my wife. Let's see, it took me all day because of how old and dirty the paint was. I usually spend 3/4 of a day on our new car. As for how much, I spent nearly $600 in supplies this last year but that is just me. You could do your truck in a day or two and only spend about 200-300 dollars. I know that sounds like a lot but in the end you have your own supplies and tools. If you were to pay someone to detail your truck (including the interior) it would cost anywhere between 150-300 dollars. This stuff gets expensive fast. There is even a $6000 wax made by zymol. If anybody has anymore questions I would be happy to answer.
  12. After the cleanup. Hood cleaned up.
  13. Oxidized hood. More oxidized hood.
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