br2an

Trainman; I think the "more ponies!" was more of a put down than a statement of fact. To help explain my choice (not that a diehard Pathy owner could be bought off so easily), the V-6, 220 hp Highlander loses 20 hp to the Pathfinders 240 but it also sheds an extra 416 lbs (3715 lbs Highlander to 4131 lbs Pathfinders curb weight) This gives a slightly higher hp to weight ratio which is a better indicator of acceleration than hp alone. from: http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com...-car-search.htm Re the fuel consumption, that Pathfinder is rated at 15 mpg (US gal) versus 18 mpg for the Highlander. from: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ 3 mpg doesn't seem like much but it is 20% further on a gal and there for a 20% reduction in my fuel costs. I may miss the comfort and looks of the Pathfinder but I don't personally know of many people who regret buying a Toyota. Cheers!

Well, I just returned last night and this is my promised update. When I finally saw the vehicle close-up, it wasn't in the shape I was expecting. There was a huge scrape on the front bumper RH side (can't see it in the picture) and another one on the rear (the plastic bumper cover was actually ripped about 3"). Front tires were worn to the thread indicators in the center but lots of thread on the sides so I believe the air pressure was too high. Whatever the cause, needed front tires. Interior was clean and in good shape. The only flaw was the color was worn off of the steering wheel. (cleaning not an option here) Body had no rust on the panels but a lot of surface rust showing underneath. Engine ran smooth but noisy under load (exhaust?) Suspension was 'clunky' and didn't feel any better than my 93. Bottom line, I passed on it. However, (and I know some of you will be disappointed) I did find another vehicle. A 2002 Highlander; 123,000 kilometers (66,000 miles) V-6 ,220hp, AWD. I know it's not a match for the Pathfinder, but it was in immaculate condition. (and the extra gas mileage is a bonus). Private sale, $13,500. I'll definitely miss this site. You guys (and gals) were a great help. Thanks Brian

Wow! I never thought there would be so many replies. Thanks, guys. I just received a few more pics showing the interior and it looks awsome! The only flaw I can spot is the top portion of the steering wheel seems to be discolored. I could be dirty or it could be the leather finish is worn off. Has anyone else seem this on a truck with less than 100,000 miles? My old 93 doesn't look so bad. Re the "problem" areas mentioned in earlier post, I am glad that the auto trannys are now dependable. That is just too much of a bullet to bite when you lose one of them. The other stuff seems to be just minor issues, not overly common. I was really looking for a smaller suv, more fuel efficient, but the used CR-Vs and RAV-4s are really over priced around here. Except for the frame rot, the 93SE was the vehicle I have enjoyed the most since my first car , a 1973 Cuda' 340. (being a teenager at that time probably helped with those memories. haha) I am looking forward to the weekend trip and will let you know how I make out. Brian

I'm about to retire my 93 SE as the frame rot is just getting too out of hand. I'm considering a 2001 SE with 153,000 Km (about 98,000 miles) on it. I haven't actually looked at it yet as it is 800 km away in another city but I will be out there this weekend. Price is $9,600 (neg?) I don't know much about the R50 pathy so i was hoping somebody could take a minute to answer a few questions. (yeh, I know most have been answered before but I am trying to convince myself this is a good buy). SO here goes. Are automatic trannys still a major weaknes (like they were in 90-95 pathys??) Frame rot? or are there any particular rust areas to look for? Any problems with the 3.5L? (I read the sticky above on power valve screws falling out. ouch!) Life span on the timing chain? Ignition coils failing? (read of this on another site but couldn't find anything here) sensors for the cam timing and oxygen sensors failing early (again, another site) Any help in what to look for would be greatly appreciated. Oh, here is a pic of the beast. It certainly takes a good shot. Thanks; Brian

You've been driving around with it stuck already so continue until the parts come in. Only make short runs and not too fast. If it gets too hot the brake fluid can boil causing loss of rear brakes altogether. (Gas mileage will suck too but it probably does already.) Make sure to order the rotor and brake pads along with the caliper. Brian

Yes, this is an OLD thread but I have finally found the problem and fixed it. The problem (engine died at 2K rpm) came back and this time wouldn't go away on it's own! The fix: replaced throttle position sensor. Brian

Note that he is comparing the two tire types at the same tire pressure. A wider tire can be run at a lower pressure (because it has a larger footprint) and thus give the same traction advantge when used on rough surfaces. My 2 cents.

I just ordered a pc based tool (I guess you'ld call it a tool) from Palmer Performance. It is really just an adapter that goes inline between the laptop and the ecu. About half the price goes toward the software to run it. It seems to have a lot of features above that of simple code reader. The main one is realtime reading and graphing of various sensors. I now have two obd2 vehicles (03 Accord and 01 Integra) and I want some way of reading codes and performing diagnostics if troubles occur. It will work with CAN but won't do abs or airbags. I'll let everyone know how it works after I receive it and try it out a little. Thanks Brian

I am looking at purchasing a scan tool (not for my pathy, she's too old) Anyway, does anyone here have one that connects to their laptop? If so, how do you like it? Is it easy to use? and especially how is the software support? Thanks in advance Brian

12 years of marriage and you still haven't discovered It's easier to ask forgiveness than it is to get permission I came home with a 7 ton backhoe once and mine never left. "Honey, I thought you loved surprises." Good luck.

I welded mine (silver soldered it actually) a few years back by running the exhaust from a car through it. I hooked the hose from a vacuum cleaner over the end of the wife's Camry and placed it into the tank. The idea is that the exhaust doesn't contain enough oxygen to support combustion. I'm still here so it worked. No flare-ups or explosions. The weld lasted but it started leaking at the seam and that is impossible to seal from the outside. I ended up buying a new tank last winter from Canadian Tire for around $250 (?? memory is now rusty) Brian

Slick I never saw a puller with the two outside feet before. I was just trying to picture how the puller "pushed" against the crank. Makes sense to me now. I'll keep it in mind if I ever need to replace my block. Thanks Brian

Speedy; Glad you got it out. What type of puller did you use? Can you find a picture of one? Thanks Brian

Or somebody forgot to drain the old oil from it. Saw that happen once. Can't believe you went back the first time and they didn't check the level. Obviously they don't check before the vehicle leaves the shop.

Speedy; A trick I learned from my old mechanics instructor for removing pilot bushings was to find a shaft or even a wooden dowel that would fit tightly into the bushing. Fill the inside of the bushing with hard grease and then pound the dowel into the bushing. The grease will push the bushing out. I'm not sure if this will work for the pilot bearing because I don't know exactly what it looks like (can the grease get out past the bearing cage) but you might consider it. Brian