Simon

In THAT extreme cold....yeah....5 minutes is fine..... No matter what...that temperature is hard on a vehicle. The waste of time is when people do it when it's -1 and idle their vehicle for 10 minutes.

^^ What he said. I ran 32's with only a 3" suspension lift, and had some rubbing, but nothing was ever catastrophic. You CAN, however, hit the top lip of the fender if you compress the front suspension all the way. Something to keep in mind.

Jack the front end up. Move the tire side to side. If you see the CL rotating, it's shot. It should only move side to side with steering...there should be NO up/down play in it. hoohaa makes an excellent upgraded centerlink. Another option is the Calmini HD steering setup, but it's pricey.

redfinder's right....as I stated earlier, you'd need the Rancho in-cab controller.

Good to know guys, thanks. Trailchaser, I've thought of that, however, I do like the ride of the JGC coils. I may also try to find a set of 1-2" lift coils for that application.

None of those work with the stock electronic system. They are simply replacement shocks.

By "and then some" he means that you may have to do some trimming to the rear portion of the fender to clear 33's. That depends on width, tire make, and offset. Mine are 285/75R16 (33x11.5) and I have some rubbing on the rear portion of the fenders when turning going over bumps.

The main part of the bumper is 3"x8". The square stock for the tire carrier is all 2x2. For the cutting, we had a whole shop full of saws, sanders, grinders and all sorts of other tools. Most of the cuts were done with a big band saw. Not sure on the total weight, but it is heavy....I'm may have to investigate the option of some rear coil spacers.

The warmup routine is old news. That was for carbureted vehicles. 30seconds to 1 minute is long enough for a fuel injected vehicle to warm up.

It was typically on some SE models...usually with the "Trail Boss" package. Most of that package came with electronic adjustable shocks. They had mixed reviews, though, even with over 200,000kms on them, I could feel the difference when I hit the switch.

Yeah, they're pretty sweet on the trail. A friend of mine (Bender, the guy who did most of the work on my bumper) is building an old Sami. We've got her torn down now, ready for the body to be sent away for sandblasting, then we're going to start on the rolling chassis.

It's just a machined sleeve with some brass bushings, and brass washers top and bottom. A large shoulder bolt runs through the bracket, bushings and into a captive nut in the bumper. It's got a zerk, so keeping it smooth shouldn't be an issue.

No, the in-cab controller is it's own entity....controlling the dampening of the RS9000's. What I meant by that is that you can't adjust the 9000's via the stock switch.

The ECU is under the passenger seat. There's a sticky in the garage section on how to check your codes.

Heh...I'll have to see if Bender will be making a few of these. Chances are, not for quite some time. He's got a lineup for his stuff.

Are your upper balljoints at extreme angles though? That's my issue with AC's arms. They aren't bent to correct that.

Now that may be. However, even regular grease, while they still may squeak, should lubricate the bushings properly with constant use like that. What I mean by that is that the thicker grease wouldn't help the bushings any more than the other grease they have used, as often as they have.

Call RoughCountry. They may quote you a really high price. Call back again. Mine were about $170USD shipped, that was last Christmas. The lift is ONLY from cranking the T-bars. Arms themselves provide absolutely no lift.

Were you using GOOD oil filters with anti-drainback valves?

Not true. I know folks running them on Xterras that grease them WEEKLY and are killing the bushings every year. Heavily wheeled, they don't hold up, from what I've seen.

The only ones that I know of (pending redfinder's investigation) would be the rancho RS9000's. Though, the "switch" doesn't come with them. They have dials on each shock for adjustability. There is an in-cab controller available for them, but it won't work off the stock switch.

NOPE. Not easily at all. Only a 33x9.5 would clear, and even that would be very tight. (some trimming involved) I run a 285/75R16 tire (33x11.5) and I have a 3" suspension lift and a 3" body lift and still get some rubbing. A general rule of thumb with our trucks.... 3+3=33.

redfinder; I'd like to see those shocks that work with the switch. Send me a link when you get a chance.

Shocks - I have not seen any aftermarket shock that will utilize the stock switch. Nissan parts only as far as I know. Tranny cooler - those are fine....go with at least the 18,000lb one, as you'll be bypassing the stock cooler.

They may have fixed the squeak, but anyone I know of with Calmini UCA's, whether they have the new, or the old bushings, still have to replace them WAY too often.