Simon

The sending unit is a metal "cap" of sorts that is on the top of the tank. If you remove the carpet in the cargo area, you'll see an access panel. Remove that, and you'll see the sending unit on top of the tank. From there, remove the bolts, disconnect the fuel lines, and disconnect the electrical harness. It connects back near the rear bumper. Then you can remove the sending unit. From there, swap the fuel pump to the new sending unit, and reinstall.

You'll need to replace the whole sending unit on top of the tank. 6 bolts hold it on, and the fuel lines, and an electrical harness are attached to it. Once you get it out, you'll need to swap your fuel pump to the new sending unit, and reinstall. You'll probably want to buy a new O-ring as well, and get some gas safe sealant to make sure you don't have any leaks.

Yes it will. The lift procedure is the same. Only difference between the 2 is that the 87 has different rearmost body mounts, and thus, takes different bolts. Your truck is what the kits were initially designed for, with AC (Automotive Customizers) taking that kit, and adding the different bolts for the 90-95 application.

Spinning the front diff at 65-75MPH will hurt nothing. I've run my warn manual hubs in the locked position countless times, in semi-bad weather, in 2wd, as a precautionary measure. Remember, the R50 came stock with a fully engaged front driveline, and it has the same differential as the WD21. If your 4wd light is still on, it means that your T-case has not disengaged, probably due to the front driveline still spinning. Sometimes it will pop out on it's own, sometimes reversing is necessary. If that's the case, you DO have to reverse to get it to disengage, as running in 4wd on dry pavement will harm the truck.

You have to think about power consumption. The most powerful motor you're going to get that works on a standard 120v plug is 5hp. If you have a 230-240v plug, your options grow exponentially. To get longevity, and reliability, you have to go oil lubed, belt driven. Do some research. You'll want a FULL cast iron pump, not an aluminum pump with iron cylinders. I've got a Coleman Powermate, 20gallon, 5HP model, that works well for anything I need. It's belt driven, and has a full cast pump. Heavy sucker, but well worth it.

The UCA's themselves give you no lift. You need to crank the T-bars to achieve lift. 3/4" is lots.....you can go to 1/2, or even 1/4" and still be okay.

For sure man....I agree. Mookie's experience matches yours, though worse, and I just had bad mileage, and some power issues, and mine now seem cured after the O2 sensor change yesterday. IF there's a NAPA in your area, get the sensor from them. $16 cheaper is nothing to sneeze at!

It could very well be. Change the 02 sensor, as your truck (via the code) is telling you to, as well as your symptoms are telling US you need to. See if your other problem goes away.

I got mine from NAPA. $92. It's an NTK, which, is one of the best. (NTK is the same company as NGK, the one that makes plugs) The "heated" 02 sensor is the 1 and only on the truck. Right in front of the Cat, just after the y-pipe.

That could definitely be your issue. The codes typically don't lie. Change it out. It's not difficult at all. I just did mine yesterday. Hopefully yours isn't seized in there, if not, it's a 15-20 minute job. If it is, heat, and penetrating oil are your friends.

Yeah....just tap out the stud.....sorry man....didn't see this thread, or I would have mentioned that.

Well, for the strut mounts, the only thing I could see is that the main bolt, on top, was not centered on Pezzy's. If you look under the hood, at the fenderwells, you'll see the 3 bolts holding the strut mount to the fender, and in the middle, you'll see the strut to mount bolt. That's the one that wasn't centered on Pezzy's truck.

Go for a 94+ and get the newer dash.

1. Could be the strut mounts are shot. Pezzy's truck had some noise when going over bumps, and that's what it was. Could also be the swaybar links. 2-3 . Could be any number of things. If it's been a while since your last tuneup, I'd say do that first. If that doesn't fix your issue, there could be any number of things wrong. The TPS could be it, but I'd doubt it. High idle could be a bad fuel mixture, and for that I'd look to the MAF and/or the O2 sensors. Have you cleaned your MAF sensor recently? 4. Not sure where it's located.

93-95 (I think, I know for sure 94-95) have the same change interval as the R50, 105,000 miles, or 165,000kms. They changed the belt and sprocket design on the VG30 to a round tooth design which had a longer life.

Trannies will last if you bypass the stock cooler (in the rad) and install an aftermarket, BIG cooler.

I had the same issue. It is as follows. The primary cable runs from the handle, to a "T" about halfway back to the rear wheels. From that point, the cable splits to go to both rear wheels. The issue is in the main cable, as it's probably frayed, and won't go back into the sleeve that you show in your first pics. The good news is that it's replaceable on it's own, and the part, from Nissan, was under $50.

Yeah....no anti seize.....not the plug's fault. I had the +4's in my old truck for over 100,000kms, and then in this truck for about 10,000, and I've had no issues. I'd say it's a combination of overtightening, and no anti-seize.

It could be that the relay is shot in the passenger side kick panel.

How new are your brakes? If they're not BRAND new, they've probably worn some, and your calipers aren't pushed out as far as they would be with new pads. Your tiny amount of rubbing could amount to you not being able to mount your front tires back on after a brake job. Something to think about anyways.

Mine's always run pretty low too.....maybe 1/4 of the way up. My old one was the same.

Absolutely. Get the T-belt changed ASAP. You'll want to do, at least, the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and tensioner. Some folks do the cam seals while they're in there, but I like to leave well enough alone on that one.

Could be a stuck thermostat or your clutch fan could be seized. With the engine off, and cold, try to spin the fan. It should spin pretty freely.

Bob, That's pretty low. You should be getting more than that out of her. Currently, mine's running around the same, and, even though I don't have a code, I'm going to change the O2 sensor next.....as I'm 99% sure it's the original one on the truck. If you haven't solved your issue by then, I'll report back with my findings.

I hear ya. That sucks. I'd stay away from him on the trails. He'll get his one day....don't worry.