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About Trainman

  • Birthday 12/31/1909

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Formerly drove a 2002 Chilkoot, auto, AllMode 4WD, 160,000 km, bough used Dec 2004, used in bush for work. (updated September 2008). The Batmobile
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

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Profile Information

  • Location
    BC Canada
  • Interests
    Trains, history, my family

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Trainman's Achievements

NPORA Old-Timer

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  1. There is a difference in the valve train. The 2001 uses shims for adjusting valve clearance while the 2002's and later use bucket style. Don't ask how I know. When I had my 2002, it ran much better on premium fuel, better power with no hit on fuel economy. Cheers, Tman
  2. Sorry to hear of your problem. Sounds like what I had: VQ Collapsed Lifter Hope yours turns out better.....
  3. Happy Birthday Everyone!
  4. When I was looking for wiring just for trailer lights, I did not see any harness so my guess is no, there is no harness for trailer brakes. But someone who knows better and maybe has a wiring diagram for your year can help better.
  5. I had this problem with the module, but it first manifested itself with the instrument lights, then 1 only low beam. My local shop did the diagnosis and the fix, with a new module, for about $500 CDN. So thanks for the tip, hopefully it will save someone else some serious toonies. OBTW, the dealer wanted to replace the instrument cluster at $1,200 to "fix" the issue. So I was happy to get the real fix for less than 1/2 what the dealer wanted for what turned out to be a non-fix.
  6. I think what he is referring to is the "cut-off line" that the 2000-2004's have that make them look very much like a "European" style headlight. There is a very distinctive line that cuts across, then cuts up on the right (to illuminate the ditch side) on the low beams; there is very little light above this cut line but lots below it. Sort of like this: Of course this does not mean that we in NA actually have European spec headlights, they just look that way. vanuatoo you should probably check with your local authorities re the legality of your headlights. They are simple, but not cheap, to change assuming that there is no changes to the wiring harness or how they are mounted.
  7. Well, the Pathy has been gone for about 6 months now. And 20,000 kms later, the Forester is doing its job. Back ends are always nice!
  8. Sorry, can't help but I am sure someone else with that style could chime in.
  9. What year is your rig? And welcome to the forum!
  10. Mine is very similar, except that the center is one piece (ie 3 pieces altogether). I used wire ties to get rid of the rattles. And only $70? Jeesh, I wish... (I just paid $225 for a set of 4 mudflaps for the Forester, stupid exchange and brokerage fees................) As for rollover protection, I wish that too....... And those Aussie ones Pezzy found are awesome!
  11. Beat me to it Pezzy BTW, how are those Leafs doing? Here is mine, its from Canadian Tire and worked well for what I was using it for. $100 CDN when I bought it (wow, $148 now CT Link ): The only issue you may have is the bottom feet kicking out, not an issue for me as I used a piece of hardboard as a floor that I drilled holes into for the feet to fit in: It uses pressure to hold the top to the roof, just tighten the wing nuts on the rods till its as tight as you need.
  12. Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60 Get these! They are an awesome tire on my Subaru Forester, really suite the AWD system. Very good stopping power on ice and compact snow, also good handling on same. Maybe a bit on the weak side for deeper fluffy stuff compared to a more traditional open tread snow tire but so far no issues for me. The Hankook iPike would be a good choice as well, we have an older version on our van and they are good and would be a bit cheaper than the WS-60's. Good snow tires make a huge difference, even with the excellent Subaru AWD.
  13. I like what Pezzy has done except for some reason it is really slow to load on my machine, like it takes up to 10 seconds just to load the new banner, eh. Oh and Sundin is doing pretty good in Vancouver now, sorry
  14. So to answer some questions about my hobby: No, I do not work with trains, I am in the forest industry; Are they expensive? Well, depends on what you want/are willing to spend/are willing to do on your own. To buy an already done up RS18 for example will cost you about $150 Cnd for plastic or well over $700 for handmade brass. Or you can do what I do, take a cheaper unit ($50 or so) and spend the time to do the modifications yourself. This is called kitbashing and is shown by the grey BC Rail RS18 model. Not scratch built as there is no point in re-inventing the drive and bigger parts but make some changes and voila you have a fair representation of a locomotive only available as expensive handmade brass otherwise. I like the hobby as I like doing the fine work and the research involved in making sure I get the details right. Its is very rewarding if you like this kind of thing.

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