Simon

Makes no difference. Body lift is cheaper, but more labour intensive. If you're doing both, it doesn't matter. One thing I'd suggest is if you're going to stack lifts, don't buy tires till you've done both. You'll just be wasting money buying 32's to fit a 3" lift (Suspension or body) when you can go with 33's when you do both.

What have you done to test steering components? I suspect the idler arm, personally. Unless you're just being paranoid about the "dead zone" in the steering when it's centered.

Clamp the lower hose with something (not vice grips, as the teeth can damage the hose) then take it off the rad. Stick it in a bucket, then unclamp it.

The body lift is the same, the 2 rearmost bolts are different. AC (4x4parts.com) sells the same kit, but for 90-95 applications with the different bolts added to the box.

Yeah, if it was me, I'd put them back in. There's nothing in particular that you have to undo to get the body high enough, but the steering shaft can cause an issue. Also the hoses/lines can create added tension when trying to jack the body up.

Yes you were supposed to leave the rubber isolators in. They're there for a reason. You'll chance cracking body mounts with them out. They take some of the shock away from bumps. Shouldn't make too much difference with your doors though. The body may have tweaked a bit. Yes, I had to lower my PS pump. No big deal. Don't remove the shroud completely. Take the bottom piece off (it's a little strip that's considered the "lower shroud" and put it back in. The fan uses it to direct air in. It's important.

Yep....seen that before. Typically (I've done 4 or 5 of them on WD21's and WD22's now) I'll thread the rearmost bolts in, after taking out the old ones, and the rear blocks. That way, they help keep everything aligned while installing the other blocks and bolts. Then remove them, install the blocks, and put them back in.

Alex is correct in this case. The proportioning valve shifts braking power to the front for more stopping force there. This is decreased in a case where you're carrying a heavy load, or trailering. The rear ABS equipped WD21's don't seem to give the driver the typical feel of ABS. I've never felt it kick in, on either of my trucks, but I know it's equipped. I've also never locked up the rear brakes, except when in 4wd, which automatically disables the rear ABS.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CB117...e=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Beck Arnley - 717948 That's the part number for the 96-99 front Caliper repair kit. See if a parts place in your area carries Beck Arnley.

There is a member (Indigent if I remember correctly) who's been playing around with flashing his ECU. Search for his thread. Otherwise, JWT can flash them, and there's another....but it isn't cheap.

You can get your ECU reprogrammed (no chips available) and do your cams (there are a few manufacturers that make them for the VG series engines) and you'd gain a decent amount of power.

You should be able to buy the piston seals, or a "rebuild kit".

1) resister from a 96-99 Pathfinder should work just fine 2) Check the vacuum connections and electrical connections at the CC actuator under the hood. You should be able to follow the throttle cable from the intake manifold to the CC actuator to see where it is. 3) Could be a fuse, the timer, or the switch itself. Or it could be working, but the light doesn't come on. 4) Most likely the "Rocky Mountain" edition was a preferred option group + the brush guards you are equipped with. Welcome to NPORA!

Ahh. Well, even 20-25k, your point still stands.

um.....B...he said 20-25k miles since rebuild.

Yep....some folks just have bad luck. Water can do some funny things. I've heard of others hydrolocking just hitting a puddle too fast.

Gentlemen......let's try to be more tolerant of others interests here. Besides, ricers are so fun to park on!

If you're in 4wd when this is happening, it's not uncommon. The front wheels will try to pull against one another, and won't be tracking straight given that you've got play in all your steering components. Even in 2wd, the same is true, only, to a lesser extent.

As long as it's not his hootus.

Is the alarm switch still connected? I'm not 100% sure, but it may disable the whole keyless entry/alarm system if it's disconnected.

Not easy at all, simply because you need to modify the Idler and Pitman arms to fit the modified CL. So, swapping to go offroad would be a bit of work, as you'd have to have a stock pitman and idler arm to swap in with the stock CL. Alignment is recommended any time you change any steering components.

A tranny cooler will cost you under $100. Get the biggest one you can. FWIW, mine's a 20k lb rated one. Take the lines out of your rad, and plug them into the cooler. Mount the cooler to the outide of the AC condenser and you're done.

Hmm.....that does look like a tranny cooler. Trace the lines, if they go back to the tranny, that's your cooler. That fluid is a little brown, maybe time for a flush/fill.

It does, but not an external one. It's inside the rad. All Pathfinders with AT have that. The ones in the R50's didn't seem to have the clogging issue that the WD21's did....how's your fluid look?