Simon

X2. People always buy 1 more disconnect than they need.

There's a slip joint up a little higher, near the firewall that you'll need to loosen up, to allow the shaft to slide out.

Yep, I checked mine last night, works fine regardless of signals.

I've got 6" of lift on my truck, and can dry steer it with the hubs locked no problem. You've got some steering component issues.

Rancho should be lifetime. 4x4parts, hopefully, will handle the return with little to no problems.

You're looking for a spring compressor. Get the kit with 2 pieces that clamp on the outside of the springs, as the internal type won't work as well.

Wow....I've never noticed that on either of my 95's......and I typically signal my changes......I'll have to investigate that further....

They won't fit. The 87-89's used different front hubs.

On the throttle body, I believe. Unscrew and unclip the electrical connector.....install is reverse of removal.

AC adds the correct bolts for the 4 door applications. No company makes one for the 4 doors.

Yep....definitely. First couple of days each year with my MT's on, I always think my truck is stalling when coming to a stop.

Most of the lines will extend far enough. I had to move my PS reservoir down the inner fender a bit. The steering shaft joint has to be loosened off so it can extend as you jack the truck up. Either you have to drop the rad down, or get new rad hoses to keep it in the stock location. The fuel lines from the filler need to be extended (both the filler and breather tubes) and the parts are in the kit.

It's still in the truck, housing painted black, 2 sided 3M taped to the dash. It's wired up though! I'm going to be doing it differently.....I just need time. I'm moving at the end of March, which, should signify me getting my life back after 3-4 months of renovations. I'll post up some pics once I have finished, no worries.

What's the Chassis code on a Terrano II? The body lift from a WD21 works just fine on a WD22 Xterra, so anything's possible.

Just crank your stock bars. I'm still running them, and have had no issues. I don't want the ride any stiffer. hoohaa = grassroots4x4 They sell centerlinks on their website. www.grassroots4x4.com

There's really no way to tell, as we don't know how low they're sitting now. Whatever you do, crank them evenly. That way your adjustment per side should be about equal.

Wheel bearings. Jack up the front end, and move the tire in and out while grabbing the top and bottom. If there's play, have someone else confirm that your ball joints and UCA's are all tight. If so, wheel bearings.

FYI, I bought some grand cherokee 3.5" lift coils for my truck, for $170CDN,(spendy, but you can probably get them cheaper) as I had the regular JGC coils, but with my heavy custom bumper, they weren't doing it anymore. You could do the same and just cut off what you don't need. Also, I run the grassroots4x4 CL (formerly Hoohaa) and 33's and haven't had an issue. The only steering components I've had to change were the idler arm bushings.

No offense, but the question has been asked at least 3 million times. Seek and ye shall find.

Both....had a rounded base adapter, and apparently the housing is shorter as well....

Many times, the "shell" of the tire is what's measured. The treads aren't taken into account. Other times, the mould is measured. It all depends. Trxus are notoriously larger than the sidewall states, as are super swampers.

Nope.... 12mm diameter 1.25 thread pitch. Length isn't specified, nor necessary for a lug nut.

How many miles on it? Possible the previous owner had the T-belt break on the old motor, and swapped it out. Unfortunately, you would never have been able to tell....and evidently, the guy lied.

Yes....the ground should go somewhere. You can run it right to the battery if you like, that's what some folks do when they have MAF issues.

Your 94 should have a fuel light. Bottom left of the bar at the bottom of the gauges.