Simon

I say go for them. I see now why they provide a spindle....the arms are actually wider than the stock ones. Pretty cool.

Sorry to hear about the truck, but no need to leave. As long as you stay away from Chevy or Dodge.

Try nsor.com They're Canadian (West Coast) and I got mine from there, for a decent price, considering exchange and shipping from the US by comparison. That was a couple of years ago though.

Then definitely check your wiring, especially the larger ground and positive power wires. Either could be corroded to the point where there's too much resistance for the amperage put out by the alternator at idle.

Do you have a Pathy alternator installed, or did you get a Maxima one, and swap pulleys? The reason I ask is, it seems the cut in on the Maxima altys is higher than on the stock Pathfinder ones. Mine doesn't start charging until I hit 2700 rpms.

The WD21 would need a V-pulley. That's one difference, though, depending on the size of the shaft, it's possible ours could be swapped over.

Check the fuses. Could be a fuse blown, and you're not getting power to a relay.

The stock A/T cooler is inside the rad. If you don't have an aftermarket cooler, get one. The stock ones clog up, and lead to tranny failure. Bypass the stock cooler when installing the aftermarket one, or you won't have alleviated the problem.

It's fairly critical. Gap them to spec, and she should run better.

Yep....I've rebuilt mine as well. About $10 in parts from the stealer. You should get the rubber seals for the top and bottom in addition to the bushings themselves.

No need to warm it back up. I've had mine in with temps around -20 celcius, and never had issues. The only issue I've found is it takes a little longer in the winter for the torque converter lockup to engage. Other than that, it's just fine. I'm using a 20k GVW model. My fluid was almost black when I bought the truck, and I had that changed and installed my cooler in short order.

Yeah, good deal for sure.

One theory..... By forcing the owner to change the timing belt, they typically change the water pump, thermostat, and (sometimes) cam seals at the same time. That's a lot of maintenance to parts that would otherwise be break/fix parts on a timing chain equipped vehicle. If you're replacing something as "maintenance" as opposed to replacing it because it's broken, you don't consider that a reliability issue, and it doesn't leave you stranded.

I've only ever used Nissan Timing belts. I've never heard of premature failure with an OEM belt. That said, I haven't heard of too many premature failures at all, but with it being such a crucial part, I would rather spend a few dollars more for the peace of mind.

You're not old enough to be thinking about Prunes. B on the other hand.........

It's not water that kills them. It's typically muddy soup that kills them. The mud gets packed in and they overheat. I've done hundreds of deep water crossings without issue, but have killed 2 alternators in deeper mud where the alty got packed.

I had the same problem. I shortened them to about 1/8" shorter than the bushings. Worked fine.

It's not really. New spindles are not cheap, and those look far stronger than the stock ones. Plus with shocks included, he's paying less than $100 for the UCA's.

How much are you paying for the Rancho ones anyways?

D'oh, sorry dude....apparently reading IS key!!! myself I thought someone else was asking the question. I'd go for the Rancho's if you're getting a good deal on them. Seems like a real nice setup. The arms themselves don't differ greatly from the Roughcountry ones from what I can tell, but the mounts seem stronger than stock.

Leafs. Hence the sarcasm.

Well done!

Holy jeez. PMS much? How about talking about the tires in the title........strange idea huh?

Reading is key......