Simon

No, it's not needed. Pezzy's no longer has it. Highway isn't any louder really, though, with her new exhaust, her truck has a nice low rumble to it. It's custom mandrel bent from the cat back, with a high-flow muffler.

Bah....the welds lookd good. Nice and strong with good penetration. They don't have to be pretty. That sucker is in rough shape. I just found another crack in mine right at a weld, near the panhard rod bracket. I plated right over it, including a few plug welds for extra strength.

Those are engineered by people with extensive training. Not a backyard hack job as some are. That said, if built right, your SAS can be just as stable as any other, it's all about the engineering and build quality.

IFS....I've got pretty much everything done to mine, short of a steering stabilizer, which I don't want or need. It's still weak, even with aftermarket components in all the right places. UCA Bushings wear, steering wears. Ball joints wear. I've never really had a problem with CV's and have only put 1 set in my truck, that was due to dry rotted boots.

If you can do a complete SAS for $800 (which, sorry, I highly doubt) I don't know why you'd even be having second thoughts.

Sounds like an electrical problem. Maybe TPS?

WOW....that's not cheap. I'd be looking for other options. A used transmission can't be that expensive.

Check your timing. Did you adjust the spark timing after completing the T-belt change?

Replace your Fuel filter. I did on mine, and had a noticeable increase in mileages, and power.

That's about all you can do as far as I know.

I had a similar issue with my old truck and it turns out I had a friction plate problem where one of the springs was loose. Eventually, it popped right out, and contacted the pressure plate, and I couldn't shift with the clutch anymore. After that, I had to limp to the shop, shifting with RPM matching, until the clutch could be replaced. That clutch only had about 15,000kms on it, and it was a part failure.

It could also be that the shims have shifted down and are rubbing on the "hub" portion of the rotor. A quick visual inspection will let you know.

That's not uncommon. Try re-running the ground. I've seen folks run it right to the battery.

X2

A 91 Cherokee, I believe, has a Dana35 in it. That's not quite strong enough if you're going to be spending the time/effort/money on a SAS, presumably to run big tires, only to have to swap it out later for a Dana44 or larger.

Go into Alexrex20's profile, on the left side, there's an "Options" button. Click "Ignore User"

It happens. Rarely, but it does. It all depends on the dealer. Good ones take care of their customers.

Adam, take the man up on the offer.

If you didn't move the pulleys, your timing shouldn't have moved, though, you should have checked it to be sure. However, with all that "Doc" went through, timing the spark is definitely a must.

I just looked it up on FAST, (Nissan's Parts System) and it looks like you got the wrong part. The part number I have is as follows 15208-65F00 The one you've specified is for a WD21 Pathfinder.

Hey Doc. What you did for the HB bolt is probably fine. Spray some WD40 or something similar in the AC tensioner as it spins. If it quiets down, it's definitely shot. High pitched tone could be that very pulley, so see if that makes it go away. The high pitched tone could also be from your timing being WAY off. Timing is exactly as you've described. You won't get zapped by the distributor as long as your cap isn't cracked, or your wires are properly insulated. If you're apprehensive, wear gloves. I'm believe you'd have to turn the distributor to counter clockwise to drop the timing back down to 15 degrees.

I'll be doing this repair this weekend. I guess I should pick up some bearing races and washers. Anyone have part numbers on the bearing races used?

Yes, it's just as much work as you still have to remove the whole shaft, just to replace the boot (unless you go with a split boot). Also, given that you said it's been exposed since the beginning of summer, I'd be willing to bet it's full of crap. Even a small amount of grit in that shaft can cause premature wear in the joint. My vote is to just replace.

It could very well be. Mine looked fine, but once I sliced down the insulation to see the wire beneath, it was all corroded.