Simon

To further explain the vitues of Fluid film, I'll share some of the things I use it for. - Warn Hub lubrication. Most grease is too thick, so I coat the inside of the hubs and mechanisms with fluid film to keep things turning smooth - Long term penetrant. PB Blaster is used if I want to spray a bolt, wait 5 minutes and try to loosen. If that doesn't work, I use fluid film and wait a day or 2. Usually the bolts come out without a problem. - Water displacemnt. I coat any exposed electrical connections on the truck with it, especially those that will be immersed in water (trail runs). Seems to work well fighting against corrosion

Apply it to bare metal..... Here ya go....all you need to know.... It's really good stuff, though, not cheap. ~$12-15 per can CAD. http://www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/applications.html

clear-ish. It dries (though not completely) dark. Sprays on almost clear.

Nope.... It's more like a thick PB Blaster, or WD40, only, it actually stops rust. It thickens up even more after application to keep moisture out.

Fluid film. It's environmentally friendly (basically, it's fish oil) and it isn't water soluble. Forms a great barrier. It's used in all sorts of industrial applications both as an anti-corrosion coating, and a non-stick coating. (snow plows)

I DID have a pre cat on my current 95. I was told it was for California emissions (yes, even some Canadian models conform to those standards) and was not necessary to pass emissions testing here in Ontario. It was removed, and I never had an issue with Emissions tests. That said, I'm not sure how much more stringent the smog tests are in Cali, so I don't know what to advise you in that regard. My old truck (also a 95) did not have the pre-cat.

I would assume the temperature sensor for the inside temp would be the culprit.

Not necessarily. My fluid was quite brown when I bought my truck. An aftermarket cooler and fresh fluid, and she shifts like new, and has for the 2.5years I've owned it.

Do you have an aftermarket cooler on the tranny? If not, do it ASAP, and then change the fluid. Have a shop do it, as they'll flush through 12-14L so that they're sure they got all the old fluid out.

Yep....that's how some of the exhaust tubing is done on my buddy's twin turbo Mustang. Really slick system. Works incredibly well. Not cheap, for a clamp, but will solve the issue 100%

I doubt you're losing fluid. The fluid level will go down as pads and shoes wear. Try adjusting the rear shoes, as something could be stuck, or way out of adjustment, and also ensure that your plungers on your calipers are sliding freely. I'll second the suggestion of checking the R-ABS, as mine was causing some weird braking issues lately (hard pedal, then NO pedal pressure) until I pulled the fuse. I haven't had time to look into the issue yet, but it's been fine since I pulled the fuse for the ABS.

The bolt locations between a 96-99 and a 99.5-2004 are probably the same, but none of the manufacturers decide to check on these things. For instance, the bumper on Pezzy's 99.5 is for a 96-99 model. Only the antenna tab had to be ground off, as it would have hit the hood. All bolt locations were exact.

If you're using IE7 or higher, uncheck the compatibility mode. (little ripped paper icon beside the address bar). If you're using IE6, upgrade. That sh!t's too old!

Mine DID make that sound, in conjunction with the cold weather tick, until my manifold gasket gave way. Now my truck ticks all the time, but R2D2 has gone to a better place.

Older TX10's took gear oil. Newer ones specify ATF. That said, I ran gear oil in my 95 because I was concerned with seepage between the tranny (manual) and the t-case. My thought is, run the same fluid in the tcase as in the tranny. That way, if they cross contaminate.....it's the same fluid.

The easiest way, if you have access to a welder, would be to weld a couple of tacks on the mounting bolts. Tack the nut to the bolt. That way, a perspective thief would need to carry a grinder to get them off. I'm not talking about full on welds, just enough so that if you need to remove them, a couple of minutes with a grinder will allow you to unbolt them.

You definitely should do the timing belt job at the same time. When you remove the water pump, you'll get coolant all over the timing belt. Not to mention, the coolant that's leaking is currently hitting the timing belt. The coolant will eat the belt, so you'll want a new one on there, with a new water pump.

I'm thinking so... B Any particular reason why you quoted, and agreed with, yourself?!?! Senility is a b!tch, isn't it B?

2 actually. Electric and propane. I'll be just fine.

Well, if you end up getting bolts, please do post the all the dimensions, in case I change my mind. I won't be doing mine for a couple of weeks either.

I'm going to be installing Pacesetters soon (I have them, just need to install them) and I'll be going with studs. The only reason for that is for ease of installation. You can slide the headers in place on the studs, to keep them centered, then throw the washers and nuts on. Easier than fiddling with bolts, especially with the motor in the truck. If I had the motor out, I'd save my money, and just buy bolts.

In my opinion, do NOT touch the CAM or crank seals if they aren't leaking. I've never touched them on either of my trucks, and never had a problem. I've heard of lots of folks disturbing them, installing new ones, and having them leak. Just my opinion. Otherwise, you list looks good.

This should help... Full data available here: http://nissan4u.com/parts/pathfinder/us_wd...illustration_1/

Do you need auto, or manual hub images? Your title, and the text within the thread are contradicting.

The 89-92 Maxima alty is a direct bolt on for the Pathfinder, with the exception of the pulley. The Max uses a serpentine (ribbed) belt, while the Pathy's use a V-belt. Simply swapping the pulleys solves the issue.