Simon

If the coil is bad, why would you be replacing the distributor?

Yeah, approximately a quart.

Sorry Doc, I knew about the lower shroud as well. I figured you had it all out for photo clearance. I've done the timing belt/water pump change 5-6 times on 3 different trucks, and have only left the rad in once, the first time. Every other time, I remove it, as the extra space in the engine bay is nice to have. I bent a section of fins down on the rad the first time I did it, so I decided for the 10 minutes it takes to pull it out, it wasn't worth trying to work around it.

Try Rockauto.com. Their shipping is really high to Canada, but there's no surprises when the parts arrive at your door, as they take care of any brokerage and duty charges, hence the high shipping cost.

What you do is look for the low side valve, it's right beside the compressor. If you're having trouble seeing it, follow the long AC line from the firewall, down to the compressor. Hook the provided hose to the low side valve, start the truck, and turn the AC on MAX. If you've got the guage, fill to the recommended pressure on the plate on the firewall.

That's how I did mine. both lines into a bucket, start the truck for all of 2-3 seconds, and have someone watch the lines....

For drums, take off both wheels, and both drums, but only disassemble 1 side at a time, so you can use the other for reference. Once you're 100% sure you got the first side reassembled correctly, then work on the other.

Sounds like the distributor, or coil, or amplifier is bad. The MAF code could be from you pulling the plug off, and it's got the code stored.

Hoohaa = grassroots4x4.com Hoohaa is his name on the forums.

It wouldn't hurt. There are a few members who have lockers front and rear (ARB Air lockers, selectable)

Yep.....finesse. Basically, there are only a few situations where you should ever cause slip in the clutch. With 1st gear and 4lo, you're almost stopped at idle.

You most definitely can. The shaft bends. I've seen it happen to trucks not running a brace. I'm with GG, though. CL problem. With those big tires, you'll continue to kill the CL in short order if you keep it stock.

No need to replace the dust cap. Just be careful not to mangle it when removing it. There's an o-ring in there to seal it back up. Worst case, you could put some sealant on there if you're concerned.

Check to make sure that you have voltage at the clip for the injectors. Or, swap two of the connectors for the injectos, and see if the problem moves. Then you know you have a wiring issue. If the problem remains on that injector, it could be that the lines are plugged.

Disconnect the lines, unbolt, bolt on, reconnect the lines. You'll need someone to recover, and refill your refrigerant.

I think I won the "give Ty a really gay nickname" contest.

That is family friendly. It's common knowledge that Ty likes to pour honey on his nipples. Sheesh.

Looks good, Honey Nipples.

So, they lied, and it's not for a 96. It's for a 95 or earlier.

Looking good Ty. Good to see that bumper back in Canada. I do wonder, however, how many trips that thing has made across the border, not to mention it's initial trip from Oz.

Not sure exactly where that would have come from, but I'd find a place on the frame (the hole you pictured is as good as any) and attach it. It's a ground strap, so you can't be hurting anything by doing that, even if it's not the "right" place.

No cardboard, no problems. I only idle my truck, at most, for 30 seconds before driving. Idling doesn't warm it up quick enough, and idling to warm up a fuel injected vehicle is not a great idea. I have good heat about 2 minutes down the road. Sounds to me like they were due to lack of maintenance (dirty fluid/clogged coolers) more than temps. A cracked tranny cooler will obviously cause tranny failure, as it'll run dry. The other may have been partially clogged before the fluid thickened up due to temps.

I wholeheartedly disagree with Nismothunder on the cooler. I'm in Canada, -20 degrees in the winter no problems with mine.

That smaller muffler is just a resonator. You do not need it. Pezzy's was removed when her exhaust was redone. Otherwise, your 96 exhaust will fit just fine on your 98.

Yep, it'll fit just fine. Looks similar to mine, if maybe a bit smaller. Get the biggest one you can....mine's a 20,000GVWR model.