skrillz

Didn't want to create a new thread so i'll ask my cat question here, My truck failed the Ontario emissions test, it was 20 points over the limit of HC pmm. I was told it's most likely the cats. So my question, Is it ok to replace just one cat as opposed to both? am i going to cause problems if one side is new and the other is original? Trying to save a buck here. i'll do both sides if need be but would ultimately like to save some $.. thoughts?

^well sorta yeah. the ad says '96 but he clarified it was for a 3.0L when i emailed him. oh well, i found a place in North York, Muffler Express - they have the entire exhaust (OEM) from the cats back for 210 bucks. not bad at all!

Ok so i took a look under my truck and noticed that it's a 2 into 1 muffler. there is no collector before it so i'd need to put one in to use this muffler. also noticed that the cat seems to be up near the manifold so i don't think this cat will work either. I'm thinking now this is for a 3.0l pathfinder? *edit* So after looking a bit harder i've found that the exhaust in the picture above is for a 3.0L pathfinder and will not bolt up to my '98. so anyone looking for a cheap exhaust+cat for 200 bucks, it's in Guelph Kijiji.

thanks for the responses guys, i'm picking it up tonight, gonna have it installed soon. hopefully everything works fine and there are no surprises..

Can anyone tell if a '96 exhaust from the cat back is the same as a '98? both 3.3L. Here is a pic of the setup i'm looking at buying, it's a 96 and i have a 98. My question is, my og exhaust has an extra smaller muffler just off the tail pipe, this one in the pic does not. is this an issue or do you think i'm good to go? am i missing any other pipes? thanks in advance

the Lexol-PH will clean those "wrinkes" with ease, this was the most effective product I've used and the only one that could actually do this... it's does a great job of softening too!

When i used to work at a detailing shop we used Lexol-Ph (orange bottle) to clean "dirty" leather upholstery. it's a thick cream that you rub into the leather, usually the harder and deeper you rubbed the cleaner it would get. this stuff really worked well for softening and cleaning the leather. of course most of the cars we did had relatively new leather... after rubbing it in you wipe away with a wet cloth. then we'd follow up with some mink oil (liquid glass product). With Mink oil it's very shiny b/c of the silicone and you don't want a lot of it on there so usually we'd wipe it afterwards really well with a dry cotton baby diaper. I really like the lexol cleaner b/c it get into the cracks/wrinkles of the old leather and get the dirty out. afterwards the cracks almost disappear they're so clean. http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-Leather-Cleane...y/dp/B0000B3AS3 edit* found the link to applying it. http://www.lexol.com/auto.html to the OP - i'd say clean your seats when they're dirty:) Once or twice a year use the Lexol-Ph Cleaner. Use a sealer/protection product every other time you clean the carpets??? i don't use this very much b/c i don't like my dash to be blindingly shiny... i usually just wipe off the dust and keep the sealer applications to a minimum..

Just washing your truck alone isn't enough to stop it from rusting. oil spraying it would have kept your truck looking brand new all these years. I don't think nissan is to blame here. i don't know why more ppl don't krown/oil spray their trucks, it's the cost of a few oil changes, it keeps your nuts and bolts from seizing and the truck rust free. shame on you for buying a brand new car and not oil spraying it...

You can over inflate your tires for a bit better gas mileage, of course you know what will happen to the tread wear if you do. i'd really spend the money on fluid changes, maybe some new suspension part if they haven't been replaced in a while. anything that you think might fail before spending money on off road parts. you could try putting in better gas too for better mileage, my uncle says he gets better mileage in his maxima when he drives from Toronto to Florida. but you should make sure it's ok to put higher octane in without damaging the engine. should be a great road trip. you could always buy a bunch of stuff for the trip from Walmart and return it when you get to alaska, i'm sure there's a walmart there.... i do it all the time, they never ask why you're returning it...great for when you need tools to fix something on the road, etc.

I'm in need of a new exhaust and was wondering if there is a mangaflow or flowmaster exhaust that fits a 3.3L '98 4x4? i think it's a dual inlet to single outlet? i really just want to replace the exaust since that's all that is wrong with it now. sorry to thread jack i didn't want to start a new one. the shop wants 380 bucks to replace the stock exhaust and rear tail section. i thought that was a bit high, and buddy told me that a flowmaster wouldn't work b/c the inlets have to be in the right position to line up with the existing pipes.

what about copper plugs? Also, what is the gap measurement for a '98, 3.3L and the part no. for NGK's?

i'll make your precious banner. You're welcome by the way for the lights...

Thanks guys, i know a bit about autos. do most of the work to my own car. i won't go as far as timing belts but i try to do as much as i can. i'd rather do it myself than question someone else's expertise. And yes, Nige is a real southern dandy...hahaha. maybe i can come to the meet. i have to get my car into storage tuesday but i'll try. i'd like to see you're truck especially Pezzy.

At 40 below i think pretty much any electric motor will have a hard time running Silicone lube is the best solution it will stay in place unlike general oil and you can use it for other things too

thanks guys!, this is the 6th pathfinder in the family... Csutke - i like your rig, How do you like the AC lift? can you fit 32's on there now? Slick - Yeah He jacked the crap out of the torsion bars. i think they're maxed out!