SnowSurfLax

I'll throw in my $0.02: I'd say the last model year WD21 has the advantage over an R50. With parts straight out of a box, you could make a WD with 4" of suspensio lift on 33" or larger tires and create a VG34 to run those suckers that would out-trail most VQ R50's and other WD's in any condition. Hardest part would be finding and pulling a donor VG33E block, but given how many platforms used it, not really much of a problem. In fact, most of the parts could be sourced right off 4x4parts.com (though I wouldn't personally get everything there, necessarily). Heck, find an VG33ER as the donor and then you've really got a mean machine. (Even better if you upgrade to the Eaton M90) I've done the research and I'll gladly send anyone my resources who actually wants to do it (verifiers won't get much, search you're own @!*% !) But as far spending as little time and money as possible, that's your best route for the baddest pathy around.

Kid doesn't mind so much. However, I do not like sweaty balls. 'nuff said. 94pathyman - planning on replacing the drier and condensor as well, so would really just need to blow the lines out. We'll see what happens.

Ok, my AC compressor finally shat itself. No more cold air, no more loud *clap*clap*clap* coming from it when I turn it on. It's toast. So I have two viable options, depending on if there's still R134 left in the system. 1. Buy parts for about $325, have someone install it for about $250 plus refrigerant. 2. Rip it out and install it myself, then pay someone about $100 to vacuum/remove air & moisture and recharge it. Now, if there's still R134 in the system, no dice. No venting it to the atmosphere or risking inhaling that @!*%. But, if no R134, my questions are: 1. So I replace compressor, consdensor and drier, how do I clear rest of system of any metal fragments? 2. As anyone ever done this? Any pitfalls to avoid? How much of a PITA is it? 3. Is it one of those jobs (like front struts, *shudder* not again) that's best just done by paying someone with a proper shop? (i.e. I have no shop, work will be done at father in laws who does not work on cars) All comments/advice welcome! TIA!

C'mon, we're all just havin' fun! At least it's not NICO, at least 2 of us would've been banned by a mod by now...

That's BEE-YU-TI-FUL!

From what I've been told (as my clutch and compressor are on their way out) you can only replace the whole assembly. However, I sort of remember flipping through the FSM and it talking about replacing the clutch. I have seen the part listed on courtesy nissan's site IIRC too. If you don't have the FSM, I *THINK* it's on here, but if not, it's definitely over at that fskcwad's place nicoclub.com. Just search their site for FSM and you'll find it.

Wait. We're missing the big picture here. Fueler - how'd you get your rig impounded? Secondly, I think you'd better take it to a shop who'll be nice and work with you to diagnose the issue, maybe the stealership? Friggin A-holes should pay if they've torched your rig's gears.

94extreme - Looked at the FSM and you're right. Friggin' A! beastpath - I'll try that. Actually after looking in the FSM to see if 94extreme was correct, I saw that the air-mix door can get out of adjustment. Does not look fun, but I'll try playing with it your way first to see if it unstickies it or something. Unfortunately, given 94's correctness, I'm just stuck with hot air even if I do fix it.

AC works perfectly, despite the clutch and compressor on their way out at the same time. My problem is asking for cold fresh air and getting hot fresh air instead.

No @!*%. I like most of the guys in the pathy/QX4 forum, but most of the wankers who haunt the gen chat are douches. Far too many of them live their lives on that forum.

Ok, I searched, but didn't find anything specific to my issue. Whenever I have it on ECON and at the lowest setting, I always get hotter air than what's outside which usually causes me to run the AC all the time, even when it's only 70F. So, anyone ever dealt with the auto mix door thingy? (forgot what the damn things called!) I'm hoping for some advice before I set myself upside down looking for the door actuator to move while I have one hand adjusting the temp. PS - it's the "air mix door" selector!

Is the exhaust system aftermarket? Almost sounds like someone put a slightly too large of a size exhaust pipe in somewhere and its killing your low end torque.

Like Geoff said. Those Aussies have done us Yankees the trouble of working out the kinks. Apparently, the only issue is the light coming on at high speeds. If you look on the Aussie board, pcoa.org, they've done the field testing. The only thing you need to worry about is that you don't try to engage the AUTO or 4HI when moving as you'll engage the front diff that is not moving to the transfer case that is and will certainly cause damage. As long as you don't do that, you can't do the system any harm.

Hey, I had something like that happen to me in a very similar situation. Drove for 400 miles with it leaking (checking every 50!) and things were fine. Turned out I blew the seal on my transmission pan. After getting that replaced and then a ccoulpe of tranny flushes, everything has been hunky dory for a couple years now. My theory is that the ATF got too hot and when it blew the seal, it put some chunks of "crap" in the pan. So I would definitely do a flush in the next 10-20K miles. I had an issue pop up afterwards and thought I'd need a rebuild, but a little additive and then a flush cured that.

Hey, while it looks big and bulky, props to you for doing something that YOU like. While I'd never do it myself, I think that thing is SWEET! If I had a manual, I could totally go for something about 3/4 or slightly smaller than that size. But alas, I have the auto-tragic, so I'm stuck with what I got. But kudos for you.