Jump to content

180sx

Members
  • Posts

    1,087
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 180sx

  • Birthday 10/06/1987

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Miss my 1996 SE
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1996

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/3genr1
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cape Cod, MA
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

180sx's Achievements

NPORA Old-Timer

NPORA Old-Timer (5/5)

2

Reputation

  1. Awesome. Next up is an Xterra supercharger, yes? (I mean, since you won't be dropping in a V8, amiright??)! Jose
  2. When I had my R50, I had 31's on the stock alloys (SE) and they fit under the rear no problem, but I also didn't have a receiver. Also, didn't know there was a difference in steering racks... Jose
  3. When my strut mount broke, that's all I did was replace the mount and bearing. As long as the strut still has strong rebound, it should be fine. Jose
  4. I would go for the first one. The second one is meh. For one, the dealer doesn't know how to spell "everyone" so that's a sign they are in a rush to unload this. It also says it has a "towing package" but it doesn't even have a hitch. So it doesn't really have a towing package. They have a price of $6,995 crossed out for a "special price" of $5,995 and KBB says you should only pay $4,865 from a dealer. So I would stay away from them. If you can get the maintanence record from the dealer for the first one, then 150K miles is nothing. There are year 2003 cars with 150K miles and more. The maintanance things on the first one are things you would normally do anyway on a used car purchase of this age. I mean, from the pictures the engine bay looks clean, but not cleaned up for a picture, letting you know it wasn't driven real hard or off-road. You shouldn't have to take it to the mechanic for anything on that list. That's all doable at home (buy a whole new cv axle for $100, buy new control arms starting with the bottom 2 first. Rock-Auto has great deals on these). Good luck on getting a Pathfinder. Jose
  5. They may not be the kind of plugs you are thinking about. They could be the "knock-outs". Not sure, and someone else may say otherwise. But take a look. If they are, you just need a hammer and like a flat tip screw driver to twist them to pull them out. Jose
  6. OK. So the Pathfinder quit on me yesterday. Story goes, I was driving on E two days ago. Got to the gas station and put in some gas. When I get close to home, I pushed the gas after a turn, it bogged, and then died. Started up, finished driving home. So I drive it some more that night, and it's doing the whole bog thing. I push the gas, the RPM's drop. Put it in Neutral, it was idling fine. Put it in drive, it wants to die sometimes, or it will drive fine for a few minutes, then bog and die. So I try to drive the next day. Let it warm up before I drove it. Ran fine for 10 minutes, then it bogged, died, and now it won't start again. I checked for spark. It gets it fine (did the whole take the plug out, ground it and watch it spark). The fuel pump is coming on, but I'm not sure if it's actually pushing any fuel through the lines. The tank is clean, there is no gunk in it at all. I'm confused here. Don't know why it won't start. Really don't want to drop $130 on a new fuel pump if it's not that. Could it be the relay? I need ideas! If I can't get it to run in a week, it's getting sold to the junkers! Jose
  7. Twas a joke. Mwahaha. Yes, I had 31's with no lift and 15x10's (which are for sale BTW! chack the for sale section!). Rubbed a little at full lock in reverse, but that was about it. Do it! Jose
  8. Why get rid of the OME springs? Unless you don't want it that high, I'd say keep them for the full 5-6" of lift over just the 4". Jose
  9. Saw this on another site I frequent, and thought it would be a great idea to spread this (would help me get my EVO 4 faster!!) https://wwws.whitehouse.gov/petitions/%21/petition/stop-using-homeland-security-funds-seize-imported-vehicles-and-change-dotepa-exemption-15-years/L50BZzwj#thank-you=p You have to create an account to sign. Don't know how many people will, but help spread the word!! Jose
  10. A way to do this without the VH pistons and VG30DE rods would be to get a rebuild kit from RPM Machine: http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=322 They can sell oversize pistons...so it eliminates the valve relief process. just a thought. Jose
  11. Check your strut mounts. The hole where the shaft goes through could be damaged. Open hood, bounce pathfinder and see if the shaft moves around. Of course you would probably notice this other than turning, but you never know. Just another thing to check. Don't want to end up like this: Jose
  12. Just wondering how far down the pipe are you going to merge them? Or are the being collected right away?
×
×
  • Create New...