fukkeneh240

took a few tries, but it worked. thanks guys.

I haven't had the time to work on the car today, but I remember for my 240SX, it stated some where in the FSM about it, but for the life of me I can not find it in the Pathfinder FSM. The only thing for the distributor is on EC-17. Sorry to sound more complicated, but when you say to the right #1, you mean between plugs 1 and 6? EDIT: haha.. 5 min after posting this, I found it in the FSM. EM-32.

Hi everyone, I searched, but can't find my exact answer. For a 1997 Pathfinder. I just replaced the valve/rocker cover gaskets and removed the distributor to do so. I then decided to do the timing and accessory belts, but did not put the distributor back in after the valve cover gasket replacement. I did the timing belt and put everything back in, but the distributor went in last. I cranked the engine but it now runs rough unless I adjust the distributor all the way to the left (towards the front of the vehicle). I am thinking I am off a tooth when installed the distributor. So my question is, do I remove the distributor, put the engine at TDC, and reinsert the distributor making sure the brush/rotor is at spark plug No. 1? If not, is there another way to align the distributor in the correct position? Thanks.

i have a question. i don't know if i need to adjust my headlights or not, but i have about 7 to 10 feet of darkness in front of me before the light hits the ground. it's very distinct line between the darkness and light. is that normal or should i have to readjust the beams?? looking at other cars the lights begin right in front of their vehicles. but i'm thinking it's just because i'm "higher up" and other suvs run fog lights while they drive... any info is great.

ive seen a 2jz in a miata. so it would fit, but how much money you willing to spend? sr in a pathy? again how much money or time you have to fab that up, esp if you want a working 4x4.

which le rims? mine are only 16 and i have 265/70/16, which is "almost" similar to a 265/65/17. i have no problems with rubbing. some old pics with my blown struts and shocks, so the car sits a tad bit higher now. but everything else is stock. but yeah, i dont think a tire place will unless you know someone that works at a place with some old tires laying around. EDIT: actually, using http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html my 265/70/16 is slightly (talking minuscule here) bigger then 265/65/17.

for difs, use differential gear oil. use your choice, perhaps a 75W. for transfers, the FSM says DEXRON A/T fluid.

fixed. when i took out the cv, the cap at the final drive end was dented out at the centre, so i guess the axles were not joined together deep enough. put the new one in and drives like a dream. man i love the kyb gr2's.

just an update. after work yesterday i inspected the everything, nothing was rubbing. I tried to shake the wheel and tugged and pushed on whatever i could, but everything was firm. then I took out the cv axle. everything again appeared fine and then i re-installed the old axle and everything else. went for a drive and that UR UR UR UR UR sound went away BUT that thud thud thud sound is still there. it's not so bad when i make left turns. but right turns and going straight it's kinda loud thud thud thud noise. my dad said its probable the axle, so today (if it doesnt rain) im going to replace the axle with a new one and see how that goes.. man on a weird note, when i bolt the axle onto the final drive, i can easily turn the cv axle when about 4 bolts are screwed in, BUT when i bolt the last two, the cv axle becomes more difficult to turn. iono...

$1.009/litre in Vancouver right now.. so that is almost $4/gal in CAD... with conversion i would guess roughly $3.60 ish in USD. anyhoo, i just use 87 for my vg33. i think you vq guys "require" 91. 93 up here is about 11 to 15 cents more per litre.

haha. definately not a rock. i bought the cv axle just in case. if i dont use i can return. but i think i will just reinspect everything.

yeah i had the knuckle unbolted. I didn't loose that much grease. it split while i was changing the strut and when i took off the boot, about 98% was still there. so would you think from the method i used to take out the axle from the bearing/rotor that the bearing is fine. if its just the CV, i may as well install a new one as they are only $100 new.

well after i removed the outermost snap ring, pretty much tapped the axle a bit (like it states in the FSM page FA-17) and the rest just slid out. seals and bushings? i did not take apart the bearing. the thrust washer was on the correct way.

the wheel bearing lock nut? no. just slid out the cv axle, disassembled cv to put on new boot, reassembled, and then slid the cv back into the caliper/bearing.

there is no excess metal from the clamp. i dont think i could have damaged the cv axle unless the R50 axle are supremely weak