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I found the following thread by Mr. Pickles that shows you don't have to remove either the tie-rod or the caliper to get the shaft out. The thread mainly dealt with getting the 12pt bolts loose at the diff flange. This was helpful to me. Stuck Replacing CV Shaft

Yes Kingman, I had both rear wheel's chocked tight. I was concerned about that. So, by leaving three wheels down and jacking only one wheel up to work on, your saying that is a problem? I guess in my mind it seemed it would be more stable, but it still moved, which is what scared me. FWIW, I used two jack stands. One just behind the jack point behind the right front wheel, and one in front just inside of where the LCA attaches, if that makes any sense. I thought it would be stable. I am really trying to work safe here. Also, are you saying I don't need to jack up the LCA per the instructions, to remove the CV? Thanks!

So, I have a question. I attempted to replace my CV Axle a few weeks ago but I couldn't get it done. I fought a number of tough bolts but was finally making forward progress when I got to this step from the instructions at the top of this thread: "Carefully use a jack to lift and support the lower control arm, keeping an eye on the nearside jack stand to be safe. Unbolt the four bolts securing the upper A-Arm to the ball joint and wire it up out of the way too." I was very slowly and carefully jacking up the control arm, watching the nearside jack stand just like it said, when the whole front end moved on me and scared me to death My jack stands started moving and I thought I was going to lose it, and this was with only one wheel off the ground. I guess I'm just a coward, but it had been a long day with 3 trips to Checker to buy this socket and that tool .... I was tired of fighting it . So I gently lowered it all back down, put it back together, and quit. At that point I figured I'd pay someone to install them for me, much as I hate to. After thinking about it for a day or so, I realized the torsion bars were still under tension and I wondered if I should have loosened those first, and possibly unbolted the shock as well. I had re-indexed the T-bars about a month earlier. What are your thoughts on that? The instructions don't say to do this, but I'm wondering if it would help makes things easier. Thanks!

Agreed. I'm definitely feeling better about things. Ha Ha .. you got it !!!! So, You're talking in addition to, or instead of the socket? Not sure I followed that ...

Thanks Simon. I knew about that method from reading the MT posts, but to my old brain that sounded like a lot more work, pulling up carpet and all that. Every time I've pulled up carpet, I could never get it back in the same way it was before ... So, I'll just drive it for a while and see how it goes. It did seem to shift easier and was slightly quieter this AM going to work so that made me feel better. Besides, I'm a pretty gentle driver, so its not like I'm pushing it ...

Just a quick update. I couldn't locate a suitable piece of pipe, so I broke down and got a 25" breaker bar from Harbor Freight($13). I figured if I was going to get one, I might as well get a big one and I'm glad I did. I was easily able to get the plug out without any heat and only a bit of PB Blaster ... and I'm not sure even that was needed. I got the old manual tranny oil drained and went to work pumping in the Redline MT90. I bought 6 quarts to get to the 5.1 level the TSB recommends. I got about 3.5 - 4.0 in and it started coming out the fill hole. Dang! I was doing this using the 'tilt method' with only the passenger side wheel up on a ramp (7" ?). So, I grabbed all the blocks I had and my bottle jack and cranked it up another few inches. Try as I might, I couldn't get the full 5.1 in, and am probably at about 4.8 - 4.9. Its more than was there before, but do you all think that missing .2 is going to make a big difference? If it is, I'll have to find some more blocks and have another go.

Ok, well, I'm feeling stupid. I thought I knew what a breaker bar was ... heh, until I did some looking. Turns out I do have one It's in the set my dad gave me. However, it is a short one. Probably only 12-14" or so. I'm going to find a piece of pipe to extend this guy, or if that fails stop by harbor freight and get a longer one. I've got PB Blaster, but I don't know why I didn't think of using it. I guess I was thinking it was more for use on rusted stuff, and there is a lot of oily residue around this plug. If its oily, it should come out right? Not! I'll get the PB on it and go grab my propane torch and see what I can do. Probably won't be until the weekend. Thanks everyone for all the great ideas! I'm armed now. You guys really know your stuff. Thanks!

I didn't try using me feet, but there's not a ton of room under the truck, and I'm not that young and flexible anymore .... My problem is trying to hold the socket in the hole so it won't fall out while I try to crank on it. I found some boards to put under it to hold it in place while I pounded it with the hammer which of course didn't work. I've got just the passenger side up on a ramp so as to tilt the tranny so I can get the fill hole a little higher. For now, I'm going to be patient and try another day, and in the mean time see if my dad's got a piece of pipe I can use. I'd still like hear thoughts on the use of heat. That might do it, I'm just nervous to try it.

While I'm waiting for my new CV axles to come, I decided to change my manual transmission oil. I read the thread on the TSB and while I've not had any problems, I decided to go ahead and change it. I bought 6 quarts of Red Line MT-90. I went out to work on it tonight but I can't get the drain plug out. The fill plug turns fine so I can get it out. But, for the life of me I can't get the drain plug to budge. I've got a good beefy 1/2" socket set my dad gave me, but no luck. I don't have a breaker bar, or pipe I can use to get extra leverage, so I used a big hammer. Nothin'. I've read where folks talk about using heat in situations like this but I'm really nervous to take a propane torch to my drain plug. Short of taking it to a shop and having them break it loose for me, I'm wondering what others have tried? Thanks!

Thanks everyone for sharing your wisdom and experience with me. I've got a handle on the direction I'm going to head. Time to go order some parts.

Ok, so I jacked my Pathy up tonight to check things out . I checked both sides and took my time really checking things good. Both sides have play side to side. I'd say somewhere around 1/4 - 1/2". Its noticeable. I had someone wiggle it side to side while I checked underneath. The tie rods don't rotate or move other than to push/pull on the CL. However, the CL clearly moves. Simon, you mentioned to watch to see if the CL rotates, and that is what I'd say its doing. Probably 1/4 to 3/8" of rotation. Not a lot, but it clearly moves. Kind of pivoting from the IA joint and to a lesser amount from Pitman Arm joint. The IA moves up and down just a hair. Top to bottom it seems pretty solid. So I'd say the ball joints must be ok. There's just the very tiniest amount of play. Really nothing to speak of. I can hear kind a click, but again, it seems pretty solid. A question. I can grab either tie rod at the center of the adjusting sleeve and rotate it with my hand. But neither rotates when I wiggle the tire. I'm guessing that is what it suppose to do. Would that be correct? So, based on what I saw, I'm thinking I should replace the following: - new CL - new IA (maybe add the Calmini IA brace that magregor mentioned - thanks!) - possibly new tie rods (as the one that attaches to the pittman arm looks like the boot is coming off). Here's a couple pictures with notes added to help show what I'm trying to describe. Tie rod with boot coming loose: Place where CL is pivoting: Thoughts??

Sorry, that was a dumb question .... ... obviously I'll be taking them off. So, what should I should look for? Anything in particular?

Another question that just occurred to me. What about the wheel bearings? Would it be wise to re-pack them with fresh grease, assuming they're in serviceable shape and have no play? I know they've not been re-packed since I've owned it. If yes, what grease do folks recommend?

Ok guys, thanks very much for the quick replies. I'll proceed accordingly.

Excellent. Just what I needed. I'll have at it and see what I find out. One thought that just occurred to me. Would I be correct in assuming I'd want to jack up both sides and put it on jack stands so the both sides are free to move while checking for play. Seems like having one wheel on the ground would prevent that, but I'm not sure.