Simon

That's right. They're not interchangeable. The 05+ Nissan trucks use a 6 on 4.5" bolt pattern, the older ones use a 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern.

Happy Birthday.

Happy Birthday man!

Pezzy's drivetrain is stock. No locker or other modifications. 99% driver, 1% truck.

Which it's not. It intakes up in the wheelwell above the tire. The resonator box and related crap sits low on the front corner. For aftermarket support, the X for sure. For capability, who cares. It's 99% driver. For reliability VG or VQ are both fantastic motors. There have been more reports of issues on the VQ on this forum (mostly power valve screws) but there are just as many high mileage VQ's in the world as VG's. The steering on a WD21 Pathfinder, or WD22 Xterra sucks one way or another. If you have aftermarket, stronger parts, you'll replace them less often, but you'll replace them. For the R50, the steering is STRONG. The unibody on the R50 is quite robust, though, look for rust on anything you'd be looking to purchase. Body rust on a unibody affects structure, so make sure she's solid.

well, if there's chipping on the pulley, is it on the insde or outside lip? If it's the inside, maybe it's hitting the timing cover?

150 should be plenty. I'm not sure of correct torque spec on the bolt, but I'm sure that's over. Try a bit of locktight on the bolt. The bolt shouldn't come loose, and I've never really heard of it happening on a Pathfinder. If your HB is coming apart, there'll be looseness between the outer pulley, and the inner hub, as the rubber wears away.

I had mine up there for a short period of time, and it was a pain in the ass. Stick with the tire carrier. IF you ever have to change a tire on a trail, you'll be thankful for it.

Check to see if your t-case shifter is moving in unison with your 5speed shifter. If so, then it's a mount or 2 that are shot. If not, then it's something worn out in the tranny.

Welcome to NPORA. Check the wiring to the MAF sensor as well, as that can cause an erratic idle.

You can get one by PM'ing Rob ( Alkorahil) above you. He works at a dealer, and, as his sig suggests, is our resident "Nissan Parts Pimp"

Congrats Mr and Mrs P! All the best to your new family.

In Canada, any e-test I've gotten, they don't even look for the cats. They hook the truck up to the sniffer, and if it's under the limits you pass. Simple as that. The only other things they check is for exhaust gases in the cab, and the gas cap maintaining pressure.

Well put!

I concur. I had mine on for about 5 minutes when the smokeshow started as the paint came off. Other than that, they were fine on my truck, and I had no installation issues, save for broken studs, which weren't the fault of the headers.

There is no difference. Regardless of transmission type, the shifter for the tranny will work fine, and the transfer case shifter will need some sort of modification to work. Either get a HB T-case shifter, notch the floor, or bend your stock shifter.

Sure, a stronger grade of bolt might have helped (though, this is also debatable, as too hard a bolt would be more brittle) but we weren't discussing that. The question was if longer bolts would have helped, and the answer is no.

Not even close. If the holes stripped out, the longer bolts may have helped, but those are snapped clean. I've never seen the need for longer bolts with aftermarket UCA's, unless the front end was cranked WAY too high. Even then, it was debatable. With stock UCA's and a really high front end, yep, I can see the need.

Been there done that. On my first WD21. Drill it out, and if you can, re-tap the hole. Absolute worst case, drill it larger, and use a helicoil. That's what I had to do, and it held strong for 2 years that I had it after that episode.

You'd need either a panhard rod drop down bracket (not sure if there's anything commercially available for your rig) to get the panhard rod back to "level".

X2

X2. The front end can really affect the rear. Get your front end evened up, and it should bring the rear right back into spec, or damn near.

X2 on the auto hub. I had the same happen to me after a wheeling trip, and it was not a nice sound. Take the auto hub off, clean it up well, and lube it with a LITTLE grease. Too much can cause the issue you're having. I actually started using a liberal dosing of fluid film to lube the hubs, and it's worked very well for me on both auto and manual hubs.

Personally, I don't like steering stabilizers. My thought is that the will mask problems that would otherwise be apparent without one. I've run 2 WD21 Pathfinders and now my X with 33" tires and never had a problem with bump steer or found any need for a stabilizer. That said, I've also run aftermarket steering components for years, and my steering has typically been in fairly good shape. I could definitely tell if there was play though, and I gave it the needed attention. My fear is, with a stabilizer, I might not have noticed.

You got it.